Just got my side moldings done

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J3FFz128

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BUT only on one side...JESUS CHRIST it took so long. Used the goo gone/ 100% cotton towel technique and took me 6+ hours ON ONE SIDE. I'm guessing it's because my yukon is so old, maybe from all the heat the rubber has melted to the side... but anyways i'm still debating whether i want to take off the other side.. doesn't seem worth it after all the trouble i went through
 

T3rry

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lol, you cant leave just one side, that would look so ghetto

i did mine the hard way too, took me the better part of a couple weeks working on it for a bit every day... a lot of people said they got a 3m eraser wheel, it's n attachment for your drill, and they say it makes it a 1000 time easier.

3MStripeOffWheel.jpg
 

ROBERTOcritser

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how did it take you so long? I got mine ripped off in like an hour maybe 2 for both... what kind of moldings did you have? the black vinyl shit or the matching colored ones?
I had the black vinyls and me and my cousins just used fishing line to cut the rubber behind them a lil bit then pulled em till we could get both hands on them and pulled them all the way off then used my fingers to roll the black gooey stuff off. and i was cleanin it as i went down but I havent taken the time to REALLY clean it up. So now when its clean, you can see an imperfection down both sides were the molding spot looks a lil unfinished.
 

yooformula

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mine were color matched and were a ***** to get off using goo gone. Spray the top edge with the adhesive remover and slowly pull back as you use a plastic scraper to cut the adhesive against the molding. After using some rubbing compound and cleaner/wax/polish, I dont have a shadow, line or scratch at all. this was my molding removal kit.
IMG_0120.sized.jpg
 
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ROBERTOcritser

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so are you tryin to keep from breaking them? cuz if that was me I would just be rippin and tearin till they were all off even if it was in a hundred pieces.... but thats just me cuz I know I wont ever puttem back on
 
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J3FFz128

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Mine were the matching color ones. And i think since mine was old the rubber melted against the door. It was very hard to get off, rubbing it wouldn't have done a thing on mine :( It was hard rubber and took me a lot of goof off to get it off.

and no lol i don't want them on ever again also... i stuck a screwdriver in between it and basically pryed it off. made sure not to scratch the paint though. then once i got both hands behind the moldings i just pulled it off slowly, was a little tough
 

ROBERTOcritser

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well get em off and post PICS. Any pictures are good even if they are mainly stock vehicles.
 

sschrader

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Not sure if they used the same adhesive as on the badges, but you need to use a hair dryer or a heat gun, when I did my badges on the rear, there was little or no glue left on the body after heating them up, they pulled right off.
 

Sam Hamm

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i used a pressure washer when getting the modlings off my escalade to get it repainted and worked very good. just put some goo gone or 3m adhesive remover on first to loosen it up and did work.
 

coopiesb

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the best thing to do this with is the adhesive wheel took me like an hour and half to do both sides and the emlems on the lift gate
 

camntyse

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gotta grab that eraser wheel it works wonders, i felt like using all those solvents on the paint would tear up the finish. i just did mine today, all badges and moldings in 2 hours!! it was actually longer to wash and wax the hoe than the actual process........
 

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Mvfootball1

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I have a yukon and I had the big color matched ones with the chrome strip in the middle. I work in a detail shop with every chemical/compound/tool imaginable and it still took 2 hours for both sides. I ripped them off, then SOAKED them in 3M adhesive remover, which you can buy at NAPA, its in a red and white tin rectangle can. No matter how much it costs, well worth it. Soak the hell out of the adhesive and let it sit for a few mins, and it will come right off. Heat gun is a good tool as well.
 

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