Interior/exterior lights flickering.

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DrunkElvis

DrunkElvis

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That is your 175A Maxifuse... it feeds the power from the battery to the main fuse box under the hood which feeds EVERYTHING.

Disconnect the battery and then pull that cover and fuse and clean both sides and reinstall.

Suggestions on what to use to clean the ends?
 

kbuskill

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Suggestions on what to use to clean the ends?

Sand paper... Emery cloth... wire brush... scrape it with your pocket knife... use your imagination... lol

It could also be the cables themselves are corroded internally.
 
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DrunkElvis

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Took some 600 grit sandpaper to the ends of the fuse to clean it up along with the ends of the cables, hooked it all back up, and still no dice. Lights are still flickering. At this point I think I'm going to run it by the dealership because nothing is working out. Could be something bigger.
 

John Root

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Either the switch on the dash is in the on position or a door switch isn’t working or the tailgate or tailgate window switch isn’t working.
The round knob on the dash turns left and right to dim or brighten the dash lights all the way to a click puts the interior lights on constant.View attachment 224895

Dear Concern,
Many thanks for well clarification and will take lesson on that.

highly appreciated from my end.
 
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DrunkElvis

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Took the Tahoe to the dealership for diagnostics and two things came back. The alternator was causing power surges and they suggested I replace it. And they said the battery cables were allowing voltage drops lower than normal. I don't know how they tested the alternator because I tested it multiple times with my multimeter and never saw surges in power. Anyway they wanted $680 just for the alternator not including labor and I told them to get bent. Looks like i'll be replacing the alternator.
 

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Took the Tahoe to the dealership for diagnostics and two things came back. The alternator was causing power surges and they suggested I replace it. And they said the battery cables were allowing voltage drops lower than normal. I don't know how they tested the alternator because I tested it multiple times with my multimeter and never saw surges in power. Anyway they wanted $680 just for the alternator not including labor and I told them to get bent. Looks like i'll be replacing the alternator.
Does it look like the alternator was removed, there is a bench tester (prob even a hand held now) that they put the alt into and hook it up, belt and wires and it spins at diff rpm and then they can load it up and see what it’s putting out. When you stand in front of the truck with a dvm yes you cn see output but unless you have someone raising lowering rpms, turning on/off accessory items etc youll only see output at say 5-600 rpm.
 
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