"Integrated" Subwoofer Options

[Joseph Garcia]

@Joseph Garcia

would this be the jist of it?

W 10 is my (1)
D 16.2 is my (1.62)
H 6.2 is my (.62)

I used 10 just because it’s a quick math number. But does that look like I’m going down the right path?

Terrible illustration below
View attachment 459650

Yes. Those specific dimensions yield 0.58 cu. ft. (outside dimensions), but you would want to calculate this volume based upon interior dimensions Now you can scale those dimensions up until you have an inside volume that is close to the optimal volume of the subwoofer that you are going to use. To make a good fit to your available space, or to make the speaker fit inside the enclosure, you can modify the exterior dimensions of the enclosure somewhat without sacrificing sound quality.

 

[Tonyv__]

Yes. Those specific dimensions yield 0.58 cu. ft. (outside dimensions), but you would want to calculate this volume based upon interior dimensions Now you can scale those dimensions up until you have an inside volume that is close to the optimal volume of the subwoofer that you are going to use. To make a good fit to your available space, or to make the speaker fit inside the enclosure, you can modify the exterior dimensions of the enclosure somewhat without sacrificing sound quality.

Sweet. I wasn’t exactly understanding what you said yesterday about ratios but the longer I thought about it, it clicked.

I’m always open to learning. I also had the same idea, I’m gonna scale up to 1.2 cu. ft. Internally. Then add some exterior filler since the space is pretty wide.

 

[Tonyv__]

Well I made the box and I’m underwhelmed.

I think I’m going at this all wrong, I keep trying to save this sundown 12” sub that I have because I was once happy with it. The sub thrives in ported box, but whenever I put it in a sealed box, it just falls on its face…

Considering a kicker solo baric (that will allow me to reuse my box that I just built, would have to replace the baffle only)

Or I can scrap the box I just built and buy 4 more 8” subs that I just put in my van, im very happy with them


Pics just because

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Well I made the box and I’m underwhelmed.

I think I’m going at this all wrong, I keep trying to save this sundown 12” sub that I have because I was once happy with it. The sub thrives in ported box, but whenever I put it in a sealed box, it just falls on its face…

Considering a kicker solo baric (that will allow me to reuse my box that I just built, would have to replace the baffle only)

Or I can scrap the box I just built and buy 4 more 8” subs that I just put in my van, im very happy with them


Pics just because

View attachment 460032View attachment 460033View attachment 460034

What are you powering the sub with? What is the sub's RMS and peak power capacities? And, what is the sub's optimal sealed enclosure volume?

 

[Tonyv__]

What are you powering the sub with? What is the sub's RMS and peak power capacities? And, what is the sub's optimal sealed enclosure volume?

feeding it with an old alpine mrp-m1000 (now that I’m looking at the specs that’s no good either) Was previously using a pioneer gm9701

sub says 1250 rms 2500 peak

Website claims 1cu ft not including displacement. Website does not list displacement I had to find the info elsewhere. Most people are claiming .14 for displacement.


I made my box
12.5 x 20.25 x 7.75 internally. 1.135 internal volume

 

[Joseph Garcia]

feeding it with an old alpine mrp-m1000 (now that I’m looking at the specs that’s no good either) Was previously using a pioneer gm9701

sub says 1250 rms 2500 peak

Website claims 1cu ft not including displacement. Website does not list displacement I had to find the info elsewhere. Most people are claiming .14 for displacement.


I made my box
12.5 x 20.25 x 7.75 internally. 1.135 internal volume

1 cu ft sounds much more likely than 0.14 cu ft.

Are you saying that your Sundown subwoofer's power capacity is 1250 rms watts and 2500 peak watts? If that is the case, you probably need more power than your Alpine's 600 watts rms to drive that subwoofer for full sound capabilities.

My enclosure is roughly the same size as yours, but I have a 10" subwoofer in it. My AudioMobile subwoofer requires 400 rms watts to fill out its sound's capabilities, and my Rockford Fosgate amp is 500 rms watts at 2 Ohms, which is the impedance on my subwoofer, and the sound volume is plenty for me, and I like loud music (but not car alarm setting off volumes).

BTW, you work on the enclosure looks excellent.

Are you using the high level inputs to your subwoofer amp, or are you using the low level inputs? Have you adjusted the input levels on the amp, assuming that they are adjustable?

 

[homesick]

It sounds, to me, like there are still factors you haven't integrated. if these were covered, sorry, I missed 'em. Two examples are...

1-- Sealed and ported boxes are different worlds. Very generally, ported plays louder and sealed plays deeper.

2-- Have you matched the amp's and the speaker's resistances [ohm ratings]? Mismatch here can still work, but can have major effect on volume, and on life expectancy of parts.

joe

 

[Tonyv__]

1 cu ft sounds much more likely than 0.14 cu ft.

Are you saying that your Sundown subwoofer's power capacity is 1250 rms watts and 2500 peak watts? If that is the case, you probably need more power than your Alpine's 600 watts rms to drive that subwoofer for full sound capabilities.

My enclosure is roughly the same size as yours, but I have a 10" subwoofer in it. My AudioMobile subwoofer requires 400 rms watts to fill out its sound's capabilities, and my Rockford Fosgate amp is 500 rms watts at 2 Ohms, which is the impedance on my subwoofer, and the sound volume is plenty for me, and I like loud music (but not car alarm setting off volumes).

BTW, you work on the enclosure looks excellent.

Are you using the high level inputs to your subwoofer amp, or are you using the low level inputs? Have you adjusted the input levels on the amp, assuming that they are adjustable?

I should be getting closer to the 1000 rms at 2 ohms since I’m wired down to 1 ohm at my subwoofer leads. The amp doesn’t mention being 1 ohm stable though ( just noticed that), so that might be a recipe for disaster.

I am using the Low inputs as recommended by another user here with a LC2 LOC. the amp is tunable, but there’s no happy medium that I was able to find. It’s either tuned too low and the door speakers put out more bass than the box or it’s too high and just sounds like farts in a box. Not really getting any thump at all.

I think I threw this together too quickly and I’m trying to make an amp and subwoofer work together that just aren’t a good fit…

And thanks. If I know anything, it’s how to mend lumber lol

 

[Tonyv__]

It sounds, to me, like there are still factors you haven't integrated. if these were covered, sorry, I missed 'em. Two examples are...

1-- Sealed and ported boxes are different worlds. Very generally, ported plays louder and sealed plays deeper.

2-- Have you matched the amp's and the speaker's resistances [ohm ratings]? Mismatch here can still work, but can have major effect on volume, and on life expectancy of parts.

joe

Sealed box and no I just realized the amp is not 1 ohm stable, which is how I have my subwoofer wired

 

[homesick]

Sealed box and no I just realized the amp is not 1 ohm stable, which is how I have my subwoofer wired

Didn't you say the driver came from a ported box? The difference might be worth investigating.

joe