Insanely hard upshifting all of a sudden

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thompsoj22

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He's not local... It's a risk I took using him.


He own's the problem, Did you have to ship the trans for rework? Dont throw any more dollars at it without an accurate diagnosis. I have my guess but it would only confuse the situation, F' it i gotta guess! It is the valvebody/shift solelenoid for that specific clutch. The fact that it shifts,holds and continues through the other gear changes without error is why im "guessing" the valvebody. A quality reman trans should perform "as new" for at least the duration of the warranty. Get the tech2 if your going to keep the vehicle but expect to be a deer in the headlights when it comes to operating it. Why would the maf/map only affect upshift 1-2? im not buying it?
 
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swathdiver

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I don't have a tech2. Is there a service manual in electronic form? I can't remember if I've seen it for the burb or if it was for my former sequoia.

Yes, AllDataDIY by subscription or you can buy it in CD or PDF downloads from SeriousCTBuyer on Ebay. I tried to send it but the one file is 255MB.
 
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Derick

Derick

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He own's the problem, Did you have to ship the trans for rework? Dont throw any more dollars at it without an accurate diagnosis. I have my guess but it would only confuse the situation, F' it i gotta guess! It is the valvebody/shift solelenoid for that specific clutch. The fact that it shifts,holds and continues through the other gear changes without error is why im "guessing" the valvebody. A quality reman trans should perform "as new" for at least the duration of the warranty. Get the tech2 if your going to keep the vehicle but expect to be a deer in the headlights when it comes to operating it. Why would the maf/map only affect upshift 1-2? im not buying it?

All the solenoids should be brand new. And it's not just 1-2 it's all upshifts. I did a bunch of research and the maf, map, and TPS sensors work in conjunction with the tcm on when to shift and how much pressure is needed to shift. In addition the fact that I am also all of a sudden getting a p0102 cel, leads me to believe that there is another more centralized electrical issue. I poked around a bit last night and I didn't see any smoking gun.
 

thompsoj22

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Sounds like you have good troubleshooting/research skills, I have the tech2 and wish i was just around the corner and i could learn from you learning to use it! maf/map are relativly cheap but as you stated it could be somthing as simple as a ground/harness/connector. hang in there!
 
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Derick

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Sounds like you have good troubleshooting/research skills, I have the tech2 and wish i was just around the corner and i could learn from you learning to use it! maf/map are relativly cheap but as you stated it could be somthing as simple as a ground/harness/connector. hang in there!

Haha oh man that would be awesome. I don't know jack about the tech2. Which is why I didnt drop the dime to get one. Id be staring at it, not knowing what I'm looking at. Two heads are better than one though! I also don't know if I'm going to keep it. Been a huge headache. Don't have a camper anymore.. So I've been tossing around the idea of a 2010+ tundra or sequoia with the 5.7 in it.
 

BG1988

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All the solenoids should be brand new. And it's not just 1-2 it's all upshifts. I did a bunch of research and the maf, map, and TPS sensors work in conjunction with the tcm on when to shift and how much pressure is needed to shift. In addition the fact that I am also all of a sudden getting a p0102 cel, leads me to believe that there is another more centralized electrical issue. I poked around a bit last night and I didn't see any smoking gun.
P0102 is a shorted out MAF sensor it's
A bad or the 5v+ wire(s) are shorted to ground

I dissected my old MAF sensor there is "no circuit board inside" so it's handled by the BCM/ECM.. the only thing was the Resistor for the IAT sensor and cold wire for the MAF


I was talking to a smog tech guy about my p0069 he said it could be the air filter i'm using causing it..


Why would the maf/map only affect upshift 1-2? im not buying it?

it can cause the engine to sit there and revv to REDLINE while in drive while sitting at a light if it's broken or randomly revv up your engine to MAX RPM aka Engine run away

it's actually a REAL thing on Gas engines

I think I may have fixed the problem to my rough shifting from first to second gear

it might be caused by too fast of shifting from reverse gear to drive and not pausing for a second to "give it time"... I did enter a very specific condition when it happens.. and I did the waiting thing for a extra 2 seconds before moving from 0 mph and it did not stutter from first to second gear. I might be on to something I'll keep trying the extra 2 second rule to see if this is a remedy.. to the issue..
 
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Derick

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Took the burb to the shop today to have them figure it out....whats interesting is that the shifting, albeit terrifyingly hard, actually seems way better after the sensor replacements. I wonder how it will be after it's all fixed up. I had some complaints after it came back from rebuild about it shifting lazy... Wonder if it was all electronic related.
 
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Derick

Derick

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Well the shop called me earlier this am.... Which is interesting because my appointment isn't until tomorrow. I just had the opportunity to drop it off last night.

Anyhoo. The verdict: indeed electrical.

The maf circuit shares the evap system in some way. The fuse was blown and continues to blow after short periods. So, either the evap solenoid is bad. Which is said is a good possibility. Or there's a break somewhere in the harness. I'm having him test the evap solenoid and replace if bad. And if that's it, then great. If not, then we may just leave that disconnected from the circuit and live with a cel for the moment.
 

Dustin Jackson

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Well the shop called me earlier this am.... Which is interesting because my appointment isn't until tomorrow. I just had the opportunity to drop it off last night.

Anyhoo. The verdict: indeed electrical.

The maf circuit shares the evap system in some way. The fuse was blown and continues to blow after short periods. So, either the evap solenoid is bad. Which is said is a good possibility. Or there's a break somewhere in the harness. I'm having him test the evap solenoid and replace if bad. And if that's it, then great. If not, then we may just leave that disconnected from the circuit and live with a cel for the moment.
@Derick Good read man, keep us updated. I chased transmission shifting issues on the rebuilt 4l60e in my 96 forever and ended up selling it. I suspect that there was electrical problem which prompted the transmission rebuild in the first place, the rebuild didn't resolve the issue to the dismay of the previous owner and I suspect that's why i got it so cheap.

Have the electricals underneath the dashboard been modified? Like install a tow brake controller or aftermarket alarm?
 

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