Idle relearn / throttle body cleaning

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iboughtatahoe23

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Replacing the lines is a lot more work but not complicated, tedious. You have to drop the front axle down on the passenger side and remove the lower shock bolts to get some clearance to get the lines through.

Depends on whether or not you have the external transmission cooler.

That's a step in the right direction. It ought to come down some more as you drive it. If it stays high but drives fine, then that's the computer adjusting for a tired throttle body.
Thanks for the replies.

I don’t have a Jack so maybe the cooler lines might be something for the shop?
 

iboughtatahoe23

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Buy a Jack (25 ton bottle jack should suffice) and pair of 6-ton jack stands. You'll pay more in labor than the jack/stands cost to have a shop do something you can easily do yourself.
Alright. I’m nervous about lifting a 3 ton vehicle and taking an axle off. Idk haha

Edit: don’t have level ground around my apartment either. I feel that’s crucial

Edit: my mom does though
 
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Alright. I’m nervous about lifting a 3 ton vehicle and taking an axle off. Idk haha

Edit: don’t have level ground around my apartment either. I feel that’s crucial

Edit: my mom does though
Yep, need level ground to do it safe. If you have access to level ground somewhere other than your appt, I'd do it there. Nothing to be nervous about if you read up on how to jack up your truck safely and secure it w/the jack stands. I like the stands harbor freight sells that have a lock that you slide in place once you set the jack stand's height to what you want it.

Anyway, I happen to have read a couple of your other transmission threads a few hours ago and take back what I said previously about having to rule in or out the transmission itself as the cause of your drivability symptoms/complaints. You definitely need a transmission. Based on your descriptions in those other threads, I suspect the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch packs are stressed/partially burnt. Perhaps the 4-5-6 clutch as well...Low fluid for any length of time will kill those things in short order (really any trans) but especially the 6L, 8L and 10L family of transmissions.
 

iboughtatahoe23

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Yep, need level ground to do it safe. If you have access to level ground somewhere other than your appt, I'd do it there. Nothing to be nervous about if you read up on how to jack up your truck safely and secure it w/the jack stands. I like the stands harbor freight sells that have a lock that you slide in place once you set the jack stand's height to what you want it.

Anyway, I happen to have read a couple of your other transmission threads a few hours ago and take back what I said previously about having to rule in or out the transmission itself as the cause of your drivability symptoms/complaints. You definitely need a transmission. Based on your descriptions in those other threads, I suspect the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch packs are stressed/partially burnt. Perhaps the 4-5-6 clutch as well...Low fluid for any length of time will kill those things in short order (really any trans) but especially the 6L, 8L and 10L family of transmissions.
How can I know for sure? I feel like transmissions are a dice game can’t really figure out what’s wrong with it without taking it apart. I haven’t got any codes yet.

And yea I was driving on it for a bout a month with “low dirty fluid” according to the dealer shop
 

iboughtatahoe23

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Yep, need level ground to do it safe. If you have access to level ground somewhere other than your appt, I'd do it there. Nothing to be nervous about if you read up on how to jack up your truck safely and secure it w/the jack stands. I like the stands harbor freight sells that have a lock that you slide in place once you set the jack stand's height to what you want it.

Anyway, I happen to have read a couple of your other transmission threads a few hours ago and take back what I said previously about having to rule in or out the transmission itself as the cause of your drivability symptoms/complaints. You definitely need a transmission. Based on your descriptions in those other threads, I suspect the 1-2-3-4 and 3-5-R clutch packs are stressed/partially burnt. Perhaps the 4-5-6 clutch as well...Low fluid for any length of time will kill those things in short order (really any trans) but especially the 6L, 8L and 10L family of transmissions.
How about an overhaul?
 
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How can I know for sure? I feel like transmissions are a dice game can’t really figure out what’s wrong with it without taking it apart. I haven’t got any codes yet.

And yea I was driving on it for a bout a month with “low dirty fluid” according to the dealer shop
Unless what you posted about your drivability symptoms in your other transmission threads was completely inaccurate, id say its time to pull it. But you can always wait until the slip is so bad, its unmistakable. Up to you.

But id definitely start saving for a rebuild or to purchase a remanufactured unit along with the cost to remove/reinstall, etc.

You can refer to other 6L80e threads on what to expect, cost wise but ball park for everything would be between 5.5-7.5k, depending on what you decide to do (unless you take it out, overhaul and put it back in yourself).
 

iboughtatahoe23

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Unless what you posted about your drivability symptoms in your other transmission threads was completely inaccurate, id say its time to pull it. But you can always wait until the slip is so bad, its unmistakable. Up to you.

But id definitely start saving for a rebuild or to purchase a remanufactured unit along with the cost to remove/reinstall, etc.

You can refer to other 6L80e threads on what to expect, cost wise but ball park for everything would be between 5.5-7.5k, depending on what you decide to do (unless you take it out, overhaul and put it back in yourself).
Lmao I can’t overhaul a transmission.

But at that point idk if I should keep it or sell it and take a loss. That would be pulling out another loan
 
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Lmao I can’t overhaul a transmission.

But at that point idk if I should keep it or sell it and take a loss. That would be pulling out another loan
Given your level of auto repair expertise ", which seems to be "beginner" (not an insult at all, just a matter of fact) coupled with lack of funds to simply outsource all repairs to a shop (which would probably set you back at least 10k to fix everything that's wrong with it and that assumes nothing else major goes wrong with it) I would seriously consider dumping the thing, cutting your losses and moving on.

Sucks as it seems like you may have been taken advantage of by the dealer who sold it to you but if nothing else, its a learning experience. I have had my share as well and those experiences are why I made the strategic decision years ago to invest in the time, tooling, etc to learn how to fix everything on a car or truck myself.

Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
 

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