You're both correct. I squeezed, pushed in towards firewall, twist a little and they literally came right off. We did this repair around the 170K mark. I was actually dreading this job, but was amazed and relieved how easy they came off.
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I actually figured this out using a new t connector and an old male end, messing around with them on my workbench. I noticed if I squeezed the tabs and then turned the t, those tabs magically stayed indented. Then all I had to do was pull.You're both correct. I squeezed, pushed in towards firewall, twist a little and they literally came right off. We did this repair around the 170K mark. I was actually dreading this job, but was amazed and relieved how easy they came off.
That would have been really nice to know last year, when one on my heater hoses tore itself off from the fitting. Hopefully, I'll never get an opportunity to try this method.I actually figured this out using a new t connector and an old male end, messing around with them on my workbench. I noticed if I squeezed the tabs and then turned the t, those tabs magically stayed indented. Then all I had to do was pull.
If you have the in-radiator trans cooler make 100% sure of your radiator’s age since you just replaced that trans. It’s not super common for those to leak inside the radiator which results in coolant getting mixed in with your trans fluid which will destroy your new trans quickly but it is known to happen especially in a high-mileage truck. I replaced my radiator at 150k with a new OEM one just because of this possibility. Just a heads up, you wouldn’t want to replace that again I’m sure.I need to do this. I have the rear heat so need the T fittings and have those GM numbers. I am trying to get the proper heater hoses from pump and reservoir tank also (besides radiator hoses). May as well get them all at once. After new trans last week noticed a larger coolank leak towards front of engine. Maybe coincidence, thinking water pump (again). don't realy see anything yet. Regardless 2004 Yukon Denali. Part numbers for heaters hoses anyone?
Great job!Hi All! After reading all threads (some a few times…) I replaced the dreaded T’s this aft. Pretty much as described - the white (in-going to heater core) was easiest to remove. Started at the firewall connection by first pushing in, then depress ‘tabs’ while pulling. Then started with outgoing to rear, and finally feed tube. Decided to cut hose and use new in-feed adapter (AC Delco) with hose clamp.
Other T (black, outgoing from firewall) was a hug PITAss! One tab by firewall was non-existent, so had to gently cut and pry the housing loose with sidecutters and screwdriver... no room to work! Eventually able to remove T housing fromp firewall exit (alum tube). Then disconnected inflow from rear and tube that outflows back to block. Also, cut hose and inserted new out-feed adapter with hose clamp.
Cleaned at existing alum hoses, then reassembled - used a very slight amount of lube (drop of brake fluid - old trick from a mechanic friend) on all alum feed tubes, got a “click” from all hose reconnections.
topped up the antifreeze/coolant in reservoir, Test drive for ~10 kms - and ALL IS GOOD!
no more tinge of antifreeze smell when parking in garage, no slight leak on white T, and nothing dribbling onto garage floor.
again, thanks to all for helping to describe in detail so well! All worked well, and all is good! Cheers, D
Thanks! I tend to over-explain the process. Seems obvious and simple, but some of us members like to see it spelled out in detail (Minimize any surprises)Great job!
Yea, I tried to use mini vice grips (set quite loosely on the clips), Worked to depress clips, but had best results was using fingers only. Mine went at 178k miles (seems about par for the course, mileage wise).I did both of mine at 170k - used from dealer oem parts along with new hoses/etc.
It was a bear to get the fittings off - fingers will not be the same.
Later I though of using a hose clamp to push down the clips.