Headlight restoration

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BG1988

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Just cleaned the Headlights

i used CERAKOTE to do it, came out nice
did the corolla as well..


at lest now i can actually see at night 4-HI is also way better.... i can see about 1/8th of a mile down the road with 4HI
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intheburbs

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Once you've removed the "skin" on the housings, they'll get cloudy even faster.

I just got new housings. They're pretty cheap at Rock Auto. Sub $200. And to replace them, all you have to do is this... o_O
 

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Down8

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<$90 for new ones:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0BX3YFZ6D

I tried using a restorer, but it did nothing for me, so I went the "easy" route. I forgot to install my protectors, so really need to get that done.... But it's so cold out, I think it'll need to be warm for good application.

-bZj
 

Geotrash

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<$90 for new ones:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0BX3YFZ6D

I tried using a restorer, but it did nothing for me, so I went the "easy" route. I forgot to install my protectors, so really need to get that done.... But it's so cold out, I think it'll need to be warm for good application.

-bZj
I did the same on both of our Yukons. Makes them look new again.
 
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BG1988

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Once you've removed the "skin" on the housings, they'll get cloudy even faster.

I just got new housings. They're pretty cheap at Rock Auto. Sub $200. And to replace them, all you have to do is this... o_O
It says the clear coat is permanent .. for the entire time i own the car
 

intheburbs

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It says the clear coat is permanent .. for the entire time i own the car

I'm talking about the polycarbonate itself. I'm a plastics guy - I sell molded plastics for a living.

The polycarbonate material that comes in contact with the mold creates a "skin," like the skin on an apple. This skin is tougher and more UV-resistant than the "flesh," to keep up with the apple analogy.

Once that skin is removed via harsh cleaning/buffing/polishing, the underlying material will get yellow and cloudy faster. No ceramic/clearcoat is going to change that. If the car is garaged most of the time, it probably won't be an issue. But if it's exposed to the sun every day, especially a FL/TX/AZ sun, the lenses will degrade again.
 

Mean_Green

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I did new ones too. I went with what I call Disco Balls, where the inner back surface is more like a crystal effect instead of a smooth mirror. Not sure if they're available for later years.

Disco Balls arrived today. First shot is comparison to the old. Second is all four units installed and grille back on.

View attachment 395505


View attachment 395506


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ZKWBQD

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B-train

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Ditto to all the above. I've tried the restore products with limited good results. A1Auto has decent stuff with a lifetime warranty, so I went that route. The wiring that comes on them isn't as good as OEM, but putting dielectric grease in all the connectors seems to prevent issues so far.

I also learned from a body shop when getting a repair done from a deer hit that the OEM ones say GMC on the top of the lense. If yours say that and you need insurance repairs, fight for OEM ones so they match. He used this approach and I got the $450 GM light instead of a CAPA part.

Aside from that, if I need to do both because of fading, then the lookalike ones do the job.
 

EddieC

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Once you've removed the "skin" on the housings, they'll get cloudy even faster.

I just got new housings. They're pretty cheap at Rock Auto. Sub $200. And to replace them, all you have to do is this... o_O
I know the feeling.
I had to replace a $3 running light. Part way through it seemed like it might have been more than a hundred dollar job.
Where in hell did those Engineers (I shouldn't even capitalize it) go to school?
 

Monz11

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I'm in the middle of retrofitting my spyder headlights.they sucked, yes, but now HID Lo beam and LED Hi beam, still with all halos, etc working. I went with GTR Bulbs as they are lifetime warranty. And you know what a pain in the ass it is to take these headlights out!!

Shes getting tuned on Friday, thank God it's warming up Thursday to finish installing headlights, wheel well liners, bumper back together - UGH
 

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