Harmonic balancer pulley

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ntymd8r

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Does anyone have the “procedure” for installing the pulley? I’ve seen many ways and they’re all a little different with how they do it and torque and angle values….
 

swathdiver

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Installation Procedure​

Note:
  • The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The second, third, and fourth passes tighten the NEW bolt to the proper torque.
  • The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used ONLY during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and fourth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.
  1. Note: The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation.
  2. Position the crankshaft balancer (138) onto the end of the crankshaft.
    na-gc-1658138_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  3. Install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod from the J 41478 - crankshaft front oil seal installer to crankshaft balancer and install the balancer.
    na-gc-1658286_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print
    1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
    2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
    3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
    4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool.
      Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
    5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
    6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
    7. Remove the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod.
  4. Install the USED crankshaft balancer bolt (139) . Tighten the USED bolt to 330 Nm (240 lb ft).
    na-gc-1658287_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  5. Remove the USED crankshaft balancer bolt.
  6. Note: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4–4.48 mm (0.094–0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
  7. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimension, install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and repeat the installation procedure.
    na-gc-63245_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  8. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt (139).
    na-gc-1658287_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print
    1. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 150 Nm (110 lb ft).
    2. Loosen 360 degrees.
    3. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
    4. Tighten the bolt a final pass to 125 degrees using J 45059 - angle meter .
  9. Remove the J 42386-A - flywheel holding tool  (1) and bolts.
    na-gc-1658136_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  10. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement.
  11. Install the cooling fan and shroud. Refer to Engine Cooler Fan and Shroud Replacement.
  12. Install the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
  13. Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position Variation Learn.
 

OR VietVet

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Installation Procedure​

Note:
  • The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The second, third, and fourth passes tighten the NEW bolt to the proper torque.
  • The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used ONLY during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and fourth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.
  1. Note: The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation.
  2. Position the crankshaft balancer (138) onto the end of the crankshaft.
    na-gc-1658138_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  3. Install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod from the J 41478 - crankshaft front oil seal installer to crankshaft balancer and install the balancer.
    na-gc-1658286_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print
    1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
    2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
    3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
    4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool.
      Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
    5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
    6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
    7. Remove the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod.
  4. Install the USED crankshaft balancer bolt (139) . Tighten the USED bolt to 330 Nm (240 lb ft).
    na-gc-1658287_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  5. Remove the USED crankshaft balancer bolt.
  6. Note: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4–4.48 mm (0.094–0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
  7. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimension, install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and repeat the installation procedure.
    na-gc-63245_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  8. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt (139).
    na-gc-1658287_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print
    1. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 150 Nm (110 lb ft).
    2. Loosen 360 degrees.
    3. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
    4. Tighten the bolt a final pass to 125 degrees using J 45059 - angle meter .
  9. Remove the J 42386-A - flywheel holding tool  (1) and bolts.
    na-gc-1658136_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  10. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement.
  11. Install the cooling fan and shroud. Refer to Engine Cooler Fan and Shroud Replacement.
  12. Install the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
  13. Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position Variation Learn.
Perfectamundo.....
 
OP
OP
N

ntymd8r

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Joined
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Posts
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Installation Procedure​

Note:
  • The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The second, third, and fourth passes tighten the NEW bolt to the proper torque.
  • The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used ONLY during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and fourth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.
  1. Note: The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation.
  2. Position the crankshaft balancer (138) onto the end of the crankshaft.
    na-gc-1658138_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  3. Install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod from the J 41478 - crankshaft front oil seal installer to crankshaft balancer and install the balancer.
    na-gc-1658286_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print
    1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
    2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
    3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
    4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool.
      Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
    5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
    6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
    7. Remove the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and the threaded rod.
  4. Install the USED crankshaft balancer bolt (139) . Tighten the USED bolt to 330 Nm (240 lb ft).
    na-gc-1658287_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  5. Remove the USED crankshaft balancer bolt.
  6. Note: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4–4.48 mm (0.094–0.176 in) into the balancer bore.
  7. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimension, install the J 41665 - crankshaft balancer and sprocket installer and repeat the installation procedure.
    na-gc-63245_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  8. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt (139).
    na-gc-1658287_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print
    1. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 150 Nm (110 lb ft).
    2. Loosen 360 degrees.
    3. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
    4. Tighten the bolt a final pass to 125 degrees using J 45059 - angle meter .
  9. Remove the J 42386-A - flywheel holding tool  (1) and bolts.
    na-gc-1658136_svg
    Open In New TabZoom/Print

  10. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement.
  11. Install the cooling fan and shroud. Refer to Engine Cooler Fan and Shroud Replacement.
  12. Install the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
  13. Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position Variation Learn.
Thank you!! That helps a lot, much appreciated!!
 

Foggy

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I second the ARP stuff.. High quality fasteners that have an actual torque value
and can be reused. I even did their headstuds on my 6.2... I use ALL ARP fasteners
on my small block chevy hi performance stuff
 

j91z28d1

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I am usually with you for arp, but for this one case it went oem. just seemed much easier. the arp does have a tq spec and it's very high if I remember right, higher than anything I have handy. but it is lower than the factory bolt, which is in angle, that's much eaiser. to. get right without a 300ftlb wrench. just mark it, find the longest pipe in the world and go to town. this one is on the ls3 that have a tendency to spin balancers more than my low rpm yukon.

the factory bolt is cheaper, easier to tq to the higher spec, has sealer on the threads and a friction compound under the bolt head.

i said eh and went oem. lots of high rpm flat foot power shifts later it's never moved at all. I check the marks every now and then.
 

Geotrash

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I am usually with you for arp, but for this one case it went oem. just seemed much easier. the arp does have a tq spec and it's very high if I remember right, higher than anything I have handy. but it is lower than the factory bolt, which is in angle, that's much eaiser. to. get right without a 300ftlb wrench. just mark it, find the longest pipe in the world and go to town. this one is on the ls3 that have a tendency to spin balancers more than my low rpm yukon.

the factory bolt is cheaper, easier to tq to the higher spec, has sealer on the threads and a friction compound under the bolt head.

i said eh and went oem. lots of high rpm flat foot power shifts later it's never moved at all. I check the marks every now and then.
To each their own, I guess. Mine hasn't moved either. I marked it also. Keep in mind that I had to remove the balancer on mine three separate times in 6 months due to poor quality lifter trays letting the lifters twist and wiping 2 cams before I figured out what was going on, so I was racking up a lot of money in OEM balancer bolts before I decided to go with the ARP on the final reassembly.
 

j91z28d1

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To each their own, I guess. Mine hasn't moved either. I marked it also. Keep in mind that I had to remove the balancer on mine three separate times in 6 months due to poor quality lifter trays letting the lifters twist and wiping 2 cams before I figured out what was going on, so I was racking up a lot of money in OEM balancer bolts before I decided to go with the ARP on the final reassembly.


that makes sense. I was only replacing the hb because it was damaged and wobbling. so I went with a power bond and since it's a. much harder car to work on. I hope to never have it apart again.. the whole steering rack has to be pulled out thru the passenger wheel wheel to get to the balancer haha. if I had to replace lifter trays 3 times I might have given up on the car before then lol.

but I get it. arp is good stuff. I just feel like I'd want a crazy expensive tq for it haha.
 

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