Gruven heater core T-connectors

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by kbuskill, Sep 28, 2018.

  1. jatkinson8755

    jatkinson8755 Member

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    No I wont argue spring vs screw clamps, i see your points and you can use whatever you like. Theres plenty on my side but spring clamps are good as well, and as you said with the correct tool (which Ive never bothered to get) its probably much easier to install. But wow, you would keep on using the plastic tees when theres a billet option available ?

    Yes I do have the billet tees, love them, mine plastic tee broke and nearly destroyed my engine when all the coolant leaked out. Also stranded me overnight in the middle of Oklahoma waiting on the nearest dealer whic hwas 2 hours away to get the part, towing a horse trailer. Real fun. NEVER AGAIN.

    Its a smart preventative mtc measure. And yes Ive tried to find spring clamps to fit these, there arent any this thin (3/8" according to my ruler). All but the single wire spring clamps are too wide. The single wire spring clamps just dont provide enough clampging force.

    Dont think theres any difference between Dorman and OEM plastic either, Dorman makes most of the OEM stuff for GM, so its essentially the same shit chinese plastic tee just under a differnent name.

    I guess if you are going to keep on using plastic tees, replace them yearly and carry a spare in the glove box. It puts alot of stress on those heater core lines trying to unplug the "quick" disconnect fittings as well, so be very careful disturbing the hard metal lines going into heater core. If you break the plastic heater core, its pretty much game over. The truck is built around it.

    Maybe I just run my truck hotter and harder, towing alot. So maybe if you baby your truck and keep the temps underhood cool, your cheap chinese plastic parts last a little bit longer.
     
  2. Rocket Man

    Rocket Man Build It Better

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    Dorman makes NOTHING OEM! Their plastic tees are crap and will break prematurely. In case you didn’t pay attention, the OEM tees last 10 years minimum. Also, if you lose your coolant, turn off your engine. The DIC gives you plenty of warning. This is what AAA and tow trucks are made for. There’s no plastic heater core
    either, they're metal lines. And you never need to “unplug” the quick connects, cut them apart if you’re replacing them. They’re quick connects, not quick disconnects. So you had a part fail after what 10-12 years and instead of turning your engine off you kept trying to drive it? You could have put a barb between the 2 hose ends and bypassed the heater core if you were desperate ( this is simply a hose coming from the engine and going to the front and rear heat so it can just be rerouted back to the engine instead of going to the heaters and disaster avoided)...
    but at the very least the Dorman parts are at every single auto parts store which would get you through until you could get an OEM part. Now you have 5 crappy hose clamps waiting to leak. What part of this discussion do you want to argue about now? You have not made one single valid point thus far. Time to throw in the white towel yet? :cool:
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2019
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  3. kbuskill

    kbuskill ***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!

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    You guys like to argue more than I do... lol

    In a way it's good for this thread because it brings more attention to these billet T-connectors as an alternative to the plastic parts but I just don't see any reason to get all excited about it.

    If you like spring clamps... use spring clamps.

    If you like worm clamps... use worm clamps.

    If you want to use zip ties... I wouldn't recommend it BUT it's your truck, use whatever you like.

    Same goes for the T-connectors... I think the metal is the better option for durable and longevity but again... it's your boat... whatever floats it... right???
     
  4. Rocket Man

    Rocket Man Build It Better

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    Yessir. This thread is staying in the “Todays Posts” section thanks to us. I enjoy debunking misinformation and when I get an alert showing my posts have been quoted and then I check and see something I stated has been challenged with misconceptions or flat out wrong information, I’m not going to let that go unchallenged, which I doubt is any different than anyone else here. When someone for example makes a statement like “ Dorman makes most of the OEM stuff for GM” which we all know is total bullshit as part of their argument, I know at that point they’re full of it and I’m not going to let that slide. If people who make statements like that aren’t challenged, it spreads misinformation and someone else who comes along and reads that might think its true and then go buy something like Dorman knock sensors thinking they’re OEM, tear the intake manifold off their engine and put them in, then find out they failed within a month and have to do it all over. If you don’t know what you’re talking about, it’s probably not a good idea to challenge people lol.
     
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  5. Rocket Man

    Rocket Man Build It Better

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    IMG_6630.JPG
    If you knew to look, the Dorman and OEM parts are different. They're not made by the same company in the same plant. And FYI, since you obviously don't know a thing about me , I run a Whipple supercharger on my '02 6.0, along with a Vinci HP cam, roller rockers, American Racing longtubes, Wilwood brakes, a trans built for 800 HP, the best suspension, steering and lowering components available, etc etc and I run the hell out of it and it's also my daily driver. My truck is all about pushing it to it's limits. There's no "babying it" allowed. I also tow. With boost. It gets hot under my hood. And see, no screw clamps. I have had a t break, at 150,000 miles. I shut the truck off and had it towed home and put a new set of OEM's on. This happened right after I had R&R'd the trans and had probably broke the connector myself installing the trans dipstick which was right next to it since I had to push the heater hoses out of the way.I fully expect these t's to last another 150,000 miles.
     
  6. wjburken

    wjburken Full Access Member

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    Agree. Put 300K on my ‘07 XL Denali and still had the original T’s. Can’t say that we put it through the paces like @Rocket Man does, but 300K is 300K.
     
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  7. gooffeyguy

    gooffeyguy Full Access Member

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    Liar, you just like the attention.... Lol

    2001 Yukon SLT
    2012 Yukon Denali XL
    2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
     
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  8. Rocket Man

    Rocket Man Build It Better

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    Well there IS that too lmao.
     
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  9. thompsoj22

    thompsoj22 Supporting Member

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    Im in now! Absolute difference between "Hecho en Mexico" And made in China. Dorman used to be a reliable aftermarket part back in the day but now it seems as though they could give a shat less! OEM parts still have the quality assurance of the manufacturer, Whereas Dorman should be called "chinaman".

    Dorman makes absolutely no OEM parts. :doublepuke::violin2::signs6::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
     
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  10. iamdub

    iamdub Hold on... Lemme overthink this for a bit...

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    Everyone's opinion on this matter is wrong.

    amidoinitrite?
     
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