Ground Locations...

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by lowpost99, Jul 12, 2019.

  1. lowpost99

    lowpost99 Full Access Member

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    Ok guys, thanks upfront for the help. I think I may have made a mistake sometime back by moving these ground wire to this location. I don't think those bolts are actually on solid frame on the firewall. The red wire is an extension of my crankshaft position sensor wire, and the mesh steel braid is the trans ground strap I think. I want to move them to a better location... what are your thoughts on the frame location see zinc bolt by my thumb that I'm using for the engine ground which is part of my big 4 0 gauge upgrade.
    IMG_20190712_163817.jpg IMG_20190712_163843.jpg
     
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  2. SnowDrifter

    SnowDrifter Full Access Member

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    Quick brain dump for ya here: I don't decall if stock grounds use the frame or the body. But if they use the body and you're moving grounds to frame, be sure to ground body to frame too.

    But anyways... Yeah I think your proposed ground would work. Just mind the routing of your wire as that could put you a little close for comfort in regards to your exhaust
     
  3. Joseph Garcia

    Joseph Garcia Full Access Member

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    I agree with Snow. Make sure that there is a solid ground between the body and frame, and you should be good. And, of course, make sure that you have a solid metal-to-metal connection, protected from subsequent corrosion, wherever you actually secure the ground wires to the body or frame, and it appears that you did that. I have also been advised that for high-power applications, like a high power audio systems, the shorter the ground wire length, the better, whenever possible.
     
  4. lowpost99

    lowpost99 Full Access Member

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    Ok, anyone know where the locations of the body grounds to the frame are? And are those bolts on the firewall good locations for body grounds or are they insulated too much?
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
  5. merlin1128

    merlin1128 TYF Newbie

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    I have been reading a lot of threads about people going in circles with problems and codes when the scan tool is plugged in showing codes. I went through this too and it started out as simple as my rear wiper on the hatch being possessed just turning itself on on super hot days. Then got tighten the fuel cap with this and it had no rhyme or reason when it would do this. You are on the right track about checking grounds as I learned from my mechanic where they can play havoc on the vehicle doing all kinds of weird stuff and popping codes when scanned. I did notice my fuel mileage was getting horrible, then I think I got an air bag light or ABS light, then I think seat belt with me having it on.

    Basically the Tahoe was going nuts doing all this weird stuff and then all kinds of stuff was going on and I remember my mechanic telling me years back when all kinds of stuff starts to go wrong at the same time "check all your grounds". With mine going nuts with all this I then checked them and cannot believe I did not remember him telling me this years back when I was by him and he had a vehicle doing the same thing and it starts out slow and then more and more as it loses its ground....

    Here is the location of the grounds on my 2005 Tahoe and think GM put them all in the same place:

    The ones under the hood as the pictures above

    One under the frame in front under the truck which goes to the negative terminal of the battery, where mine the bolt rotted away and it fell off. You will see it as it is with that negative from the battery cable and it has tones of wires in a loom connector when you look under the truck

    Two under the driver side door on the frame, very easy to see when you look under there.

    Of course the one that fell off I took a Dremel too to clean the frame and get rid of all the rust and got a stainless steel bolt to put it back on. That one solved all my weird problems with dash lights and messages, bad fuel mileage, the possessed wiper in back.

    With that I cleaned them all and others were not to bad but the connectors got a cleaning and the frame got the Dremel tool to ensure a good connection.

    Once done took truck bed coating paint and sprayed them to seal them all up.

    He also did tell me that this is something overlooked by a lot of mechanics and even dealerships relying on the scan tool looking for codes. Their are horror stories on You Tube I seen where people had problems like me and the dealer just went off codes and changing parts. One in particular the person spent about 2K at the dealership only to find out his ground was off like mine was.

    It is hard to believe something so simple can cause all these problems and run people in circles like it did me until I remember that.
     
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  6. PNW VietVet

    PNW VietVet Full Access Member

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    Good call. The longer the wire and the smaller the gauge creates more resistance thru that wire. Clean connections, the correct gauge wire and a tight connection at a good ground source does the trick. Even too many crimp connectors can cause problems. That is another reason why you would never see one of those battery cable ends, on one of my battery cables at the battery, that you cut the end off the cable and just tighten on to the frayed open wires. Only in an emergency. Then get the right cable and replace. Works better and looks cleaner.
     
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