Getting back into a full size SUV.

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wilto

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I owned a 2010(possibly 2011) Yukon XL from 2014 to 2019, and in that timeframe went from 100k to 170k ish miles with barely anything needed except routine wear and tear maintenance.

From 2019 to May 2022 we spent time overseas. Upon our return which seemed to be the absolute height of the used car market we bought a minivan, Honda Odyssey. I know, you don't have to tell me. :eek:

As of this weekend I AM DONE. Can't take it any more.

I'm specifically looking at a 2015 Yukon XL Denali with 110K on the clock and the 6 speed auto for 27k

What are some of the big ticket items that are likely to fail around this mile marker if they haven't already been resolved?

Alternatively should I steer clear and just wait it out for a bit longer and try to snag a newer model?
For reference there's a 2019 SLT near me with 97k on the clock for $34k.

Any pointers on what years to push for and what configurations to avoid would be gratefully accepted. Open to all 3 full size, suburban/XL and ESV.
 
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tom3

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There were quite a few upgrades from the '15 to the '19 but the basic problems remain. Engine lifters with the cylinder deactivation hardware, transmission problems resulting from the programmed "slip" in the lockup torque converter. The more technology, the more things to fail. Both machines seem some overpriced to me but I'm probably behind times on used vehicle prices. I'd go with the newer and lower mileage machine of these two.
 

Miami-Dade

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I owned a 2010(possibly 2011) Yukon XL from 2014 to 2019, and in that timeframe went from 100k to 170k ish miles with barely anything needed except routine wear and tear maintenance.

From 2019 to May 2022 we spent time overseas. Upon our return which seemed to be the absolute height of the used car market we bought a minivan, Honda Odyssey. I know, you don't have to tell me. :eek:

As of this weekend I AM DONE. Can't take it any more.

I'm specifically looking at a 2015 Yukon XL Denali with 110K on the clock and the 6 speed auto for 27k

What are some of the big ticket items that are likely to fail around this mile marker if they haven't already been resolved?

Alternatively should I steer clear and just wait it out for a bit longer and try to snag a newer model?
For reference there's a 2019 SLT near me with 97k on the clock for $34k.

Any pointers on what years to push for and what configurations to avoid would be gratefully accepted. Open to all 3 full size, suburban/XL and ESV.
I vote for the 2019. That is if you can get all service records and have it checked out from top to bottom by a good independent mechanic.

Of coarse take it out on the highway and service streets a nice test. The price is not that bad [considering today's prices] but you can just make a counter offer.
 

CMoore711

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If you're ok getting a rig with 100K+ miles I would still be looking in the 2018-2020 range.

This is in the later model year run of the K2XX SUV Platform; Which means more of the "new" model change bugs are worked out.
In the Denali trim this MY range gets you the 10 speed transmission which is light years better than the 6 and 8 speeds they put in the 2015-2017 MY. Bumping up your budget a few more grand to get something with the 10 speed is well worth it on the front end of vehicle purchase on this platform.

You should be able to find a 2018-2020 Yukon XL Denali w/ 6.2L Ecotec3 and 10 speed transmission with 100K +/- miles in the range of $32-$36K +/-.
 

SpyShops212

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Stay away from the 8 speed. I would check to see if the lifters have been replaced and if they have not then I would replace the vlom with the updated part. If you want to go further then replace the passenger lifters as well. I have not seen the driver side lifters to fail on this generation. If you could bump your budget a tad bit more I would get a 2018 with 10-speed with the front and rear control arms made from steel instead of aluminum.
 
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wilto

wilto

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20230504_072028.jpg

Well I picked up this 2018 LT with 105k on the clock a few weeks ago.

It was getting unloaded from the trailer at the Chevy Dealer as I turned up. Immediately noted engine was rattling at 1500 rpm +. Worked out a deal which included new camshaft and lifters if that was the problem and of course it was. I got to take it home for a few days but its been back at the dealer for a week now, quoted $7200 of repairs at dealer cost so feel pretty good about this deal just hope the dealer who have a good rep do it properly and I get it back soon!
 

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