General Maintenance ?

bradyjames

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Hello! Long time reader, first time poster.

I have a 2005 Tahoe Z71. I bought it with 139k miles on the odometer a few years ago and I just recently hit 202k miles.

About 6 months ago, check engine light came on. Scan tool said to replace the 02 sensors. So after about 20 minutes on my back, I completed the job in my garage. Received a registration renewal/smog notice in 9/2021 - Tahoe passed smog with no issues in CA. I change the oil frequently.

The Tahoe runs well and has been relatively maintenance free. From time to time, I tow a 3500lb pop up trailer for the family, once in a while on a long, super steep grade it runs a bit warm which I expect is normal operation.

With 202k miles on the odometer, what preventative maintenance should I be considering or what repairs should I be anticipating?

Thanks for the insight! I love my 2005 Tahoe Z71! Hoping to put 500k miles on it.
 

Sam Harris

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If the engine and trans are good, I’d be looking at suspension components. Especially up front. These are heavy vehicles and are built like tanks, but those parts also take a beating. I’m at 215k now, and have replaced a good amount of the front end suspension components, tie rods, sway bar end links, UCAs, lower ball joints, pitman and idler. Front shocks replaced with Bilstein 5100’s. Also recently did the intermediate steering shaft, not because it “needed” it, but the little clunking noises had to go and it’s a cheap, easy job. Also upgraded both front and rear sway bars with very nice, and effective units from Hellwig. I’d look closely at the hubs as well but so far mine are good. When the time comes it’s going to be Timken 100%. Good luck. :thumbsup:
 

treehan77

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Check the suspension components- ball joints, tie rods, sway bar bushings, end links, pitman & idler etc, these are commonly smoked by 200k. Especially if you live where road salt is used, check the brake lines, they rust out. Make sure the water pump isn't leaking out the weep hole (you can borrow a pressure tester at most auto parts store for free with a deposit).

Change brake fluid, power steering fluid. Spark plugs and wires most likely. Change differential fluid, flush coolant, check coolant hoses for squishy spots or leaks. Check serpentine belt for any cracking or wear. Check the A/c belt and tensioner. Inspect shocks for any leaks. These are all things you can at least check yourself or accomplish in the driveway with minimal tools. Change air filter. Spray window tracks to lubricate, power window motors fail often, this might help them for a while. Oh, and actually grease the zerk fittings while you're at it, most people never do this.

From 150k to 191k i've needed: Idler & Pitman, power steering pump, water pump, new front hubs, airbag sensors, solder reflow of the ABS computer, end links, rebuilt cluster, cleaned rear lighting block (turn signals went nuts), remove and rehab both front door lock assemblies

Not required but did anyway: 4 shocks, all 5 brake hoses, front and rear calipers/rotors/pads, all cooling hoses, all belts and pulleys/idlers, oil pressure switch, intake manifold gaskets, valley pan gasket, kNock sensors & harness, oil block off gasket, throttle body gasket, clean MAF, inner & outer tie rods, sway bar bushings front/rear, rear axle bearings & seals, and of course all fluids (other than transmission fluid), cabin temp sensors, intermediate steering shaft and bushing, probably some other stuff i forgot. Sounds like a lot, but not really, not too much $$$ when you do it yourself. Only thing i didn't do was the alignment.

Keep a roll of duct tape in the truck. Never know when a heater hose fitting or radiator hose is gonna fail.
 
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S33k3r

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Check the suspension components- ball joints, tie rods, sway bar bushings, end links, pitman & idler etc, these are commonly smoked by 200k. Especially if you live where road salt is used, check the brake lines, they rust out. Make sure the water pump isn't leaking out the weep hole (you can borrow a pressure tester at most auto parts store for free with a deposit).

Change brake fluid, power steering fluid. Spark plugs and wires most likely. Change differential fluid, flush coolant, check coolant hoses for squishy spots or leaks. Check serpentine belt for any cracking or wear. Check the A/c belt and tensioner. Inspect shocks for any leaks. These are all things you can at least check yourself or accomplish in the driveway with minimal tools. Change air filter. Spray window tracks to lubricate, power window motors fail often, this might help them for a while. Oh, and actually grease the zerk fittings while you're at it, most people never do this.

From 150k to 191k i've needed: Idler & Pitman, power steering pump, water pump, new front hubs, airbag sensors, solder reflow of the ABS computer, end links, rebuilt cluster, cleaned rear lighting block (turn signals went nuts), remove and rehab both front door lock assemblies

Not required but did anyway: 4 shocks, all 5 brake hoses, front and rear calipers/rotors/pads, all cooling hoses, all belts and pulleys/idlers, oil pressure switch, intake manifold gaskets, valley pan gasket, kNock sensors & harness, oil block off gasket, throttle body gasket, clean MAF, inner & outer tie rods, sway bar bushings front/rear, rear axle bearings & seals, and of course all fluids (other than transmission fluid), cabin temp sensors, intermediate steering shaft and bushing, probably some other stuff i forgot. Sounds like a lot, but not really, not too much $$$ when you do it yourself. Only thing i didn't do was the alignment.

Keep a roll of duct tape in the truck. Never know when a heater hose fitting or radiator hose is gonna fail.
How the heck do you lubricate the window tracks without disassembling the doors? Hmmm. I guess I'll try Google on that, shortly.
 

treehan77

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I also forgot: replaced fuel pump (wasn’t broken yet, but needed to replace evap canister/purge valve/Vent valve because it was plugged with charcoal pellets and I couldn’t put gas in it, which also solved my wonky fuel gauge.
 

MO VietVet

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Have done lots of what is suggested and then some in my build thread in the Under Construction forum at bottom of home page. Lots of pics and suggestions. You want to get to 500k miles? Plan ahead and do lots of preventative maintenance instead of breakdown maintenance. Maintenance pays and breakdowns cost.
 

treehan77

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Ah yes, I’m with PNW VIETVet. If anything even looks like it could have some wear, I just replace it. Almost always cheaper than a tow bill, let alone the repairs. also oil pan gasket and pick up tube oring while I was there. A $2 piece that gives people a lot of problems (low oil pressure if it starts to suck air after becoming flat/hard from age)
 

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