Fuel and oil additives

[SnowDrifter]

I used to use MoS2. In my last car, I ran some UOAs and found better wear numbers. Problem is with prolonged use, it likes to separate out and leave deposits of the stuff in the pan. Found that one out by surprise on this rig when I had the pan down. I've since abandoned it. Bit of a bummer since on paper it worked, but long term it will eventually plug the pickup. There's supposed to be a soluble moly additive called biotech. I've not used or tested it though, nor can I comment if LM's ceratec is effective / suffers from separation problems.

 

[wilcfr]

Im curious as to what brands you guys use. Any evidence that such products worked for you?

I put some Techron in mine last tank to see if it helps with the cold starts. I seem to notice a bit of misfire for about 5 to 10 seconds. Smooths out after. I seen someone on here was using marvel mystery oil, so I bought some for this new tank of fuel.

I also seen something new, Lucas oil low viscosity stabilizer. Says it’s ideal for vvt and dod engines. Curious if any of you use that.

 

[wilcfr]

I use the Lucas gas treatment whenever I'm going on a long trip, i.e., one where I'll use the whole tank before getting home. Not sure what it's doing, but the engine runs smooth and the MPGs go up about 2-3 per trip. Ran some Seafoam through a 98 Tahoe I bought as andropause project. Not sure it did much, but my mechanic suggested it. He felt the truck hadn't been well cared for, and it might help to try to clean it out some.

 

[jeffbco]

Mine idles smooth as glass when I run the BG chemtool in the gas tank... Do it about once every oil change... man it runs good with that in there... Rest of the time just normal 93 top tier gas... Dont have a Chevron station near by that I wont get water in my gas so I stick to shell, exxon, or valero...

Most of the cleaners are not really needed for injectors, the solvent of gasoline is actually really well at dissolving bs... But the pump and filters seem to benefit from cleaners the most...

Do you have Texaco near you? They are a "sister" of Chevron and have the Techron additive also.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Do you have Texaco near you? They are a "sister" of Chevron and have the Techron additive also.

Have to look thanks for the tip man...

 

[JeffL]

Im curious as to what brands you guys use. Any evidence that such products worked for you?

I put some Techron in mine last tank to see if it helps with the cold starts. I seem to notice a bit of misfire for about 5 to 10 seconds. Smooths out after. I seen someone on here was using marvel mystery oil, so I bought some for this new tank of fuel.

I also seen something new, Lucas oil low viscosity stabilizer. Says it’s ideal for vvt and dod engines. Curious if any of you use that.

I have never followed an oil change regimen, mostly between 5 and 8 thousnd miles i'll change it. Ive always used the cheapest oil and filter I could find and ive always used the cheapest gas I could find. Because im cheap.
My 3.7 ram 355,000 miles still passes smog.
My 5.3 Tahoe 297,000 miles. Still passes smog.
My 67 352 ci.F250 roughly 400,000 miles still purrs.
The secret isnt additives or expensive maintenance, its how you drive. Plain and simple.

 

[Johnnie L]

I used to use MoS2. In my last car, I ran some UOAs and found better wear numbers. Problem is with prolonged use, it likes to separate out and leave deposits of the stuff in the pan. Found that one out by surprise on this rig when I had the pan down. I've since abandoned it. Bit of a bummer since on paper it worked, but long term it will eventually plug the pickup. There's supposed to be a soluble moly additive called biotech. I've not used or tested it though, nor can I comment if LM's ceratec is effective / suffers from separation problems.

My experience has led me to 480M Ultragard from Primrose Oil Company. Add this product to your crankcase oil at 10% by volume i.e. if your crankcase capacity is 5.5qts, on your next oil change put in .5qts of 480M Ultragard and 5 quarts motor oil. The amount of additive recommended is an important factor to weigh as you want to avoid changing the oil's viscosity with too much oil supplement. For example, Lucas Oil Treatment directions say to add a minimum of 20% by volume and recommends you actually use 60% by volume. IMO these amounts will change the oil's viscosity and increase the potential of doing more harm than good.
A couple of big reasons I use 480M Ultragard is: 1) it doesn't stratify or separate from the oil it's mix with, as it chemically bonds to the oil. This greatly improves the shear strength and improves the oil's viscosity index. 2) It plates to the metal surfaces it's lubricating. This is huge as motor oil today contains very little, if any, zinc and phosphorus, a.k.a. ZDDP. This plating ability is particularly beneficial when you shut your engine off, as it leaves a protective coating on vital engine components and inhibits oxidation. This protective coating also acts as a sacrificial lubricant when starting your engine back up making it easier on your engine during cold starts. It should be noted that 480M Ultragard does not contain actual ZDDP anti-wear additives, however it does provide the benefits of ZDDP while being completely safe and beneficial for use with today's engines designed with emission control devices and after-treatment systems.

When it comes to fuel additives I've seen really good results cleaning fuel systems on the gas or diesel side with 406 Injector Perfector also from Primrose. Depending upon how clean or dirty your fuel system is, you may need to treat 2-3 consecutive tanks of fuel when first starting to use 406 Injector Perfector. After initial clean up, treat 1 full tank whenever you change your oil.
If you're looking for a quality every tank treatment additive that maintains cleanliness, prevents or reverses phase separation and will stabilize your fuel when storing your boat, car, motorcycle, snowmobile, lawn & garden equipment, etc... use Phaser 3000.
The Seafoam's, Sta-bil's & MMO's we've all tried at one point or another have little to no effect on today's modern fuel formulations and I seriously doubt they were ever actually effective. Although guys that work on carburetors swear by the cleaning ability of straight Seafoam when used at 100%. Personally I think they'll get the same or better results with straight up Isopropyl Alcohol considering that is 70% of what Seafoam consists of.
When it comes to Diesel Powered engines, either of the above fuel additives from Primrose will also work with however, neither are as cost effective nor do they include the necessary ingredients needed to provide the remarkable results you'll get from 5007 Power Klenz ID, also from, you guessed it, Primrose.
5007 Power Klenz ID boosts Cetane by 40 points (4 numbers), improves lubricity, thermally & oxidatively stabilizes diesel fuel, extends fuel filter life and dissolves & inhibits IDID's (Internal Diesel Injector Deposits) that cause injector stiction, among others.
Sorry for the lengthy post, but I hope some of this information has been helpful.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

My experience has led me to 480M Ultragard from Primrose Oil Company. Add this product to your crankcase oil at 10% by volume i.e. if your crankcase capacity is 5.5qts, on your next oil change put in .5qts of 480M Ultragard and 5 quarts motor oil. The amount of additive recommended is an important factor to weigh as you want to avoid changing the oil's viscosity with too much oil supplement. For example, Lucas Oil Treatment directions say to add a minimum of 20% by volume and recommends you actually use 60% by volume. IMO these amounts will change the oil's viscosity and increase the potential of doing more harm than good.
A couple of big reasons I use 480M Ultragard is: 1) it doesn't stratify or separate from the oil it's mix with, as it chemically bonds to the oil. This greatly improves the shear strength and improves the oil's viscosity index. 2) It plates to the metal surfaces it's lubricating. This is huge as motor oil today contains very little, if any, zinc and phosphorus, a.k.a. ZDDP. This plating ability is particularly beneficial when you shut your engine off, as it leaves a protective coating on vital engine components and inhibits oxidation. This protective coating also acts as a sacrificial lubricant when starting your engine back up making it easier on your engine during cold starts. It should be noted that 480M Ultragard does not contain actual ZDDP anti-wear additives, however it does provide the benefits of ZDDP while being completely safe and beneficial for use with today's engines designed with emission control devices and after-treatment systems.

When it comes to fuel additives I've seen really good results cleaning fuel systems on the gas or diesel side with 406 Injector Perfector also from Primrose. Depending upon how clean or dirty your fuel system is, you may need to treat 2-3 consecutive tanks of fuel when first starting to use 406 Injector Perfector. After initial clean up, treat 1 full tank whenever you change your oil.
If you're looking for a quality every tank treatment additive that maintains cleanliness, prevents or reverses phase separation and will stabilize your fuel when storing your boat, car, motorcycle, snowmobile, lawn & garden equipment, etc... use Phaser 3000.
The Seafoam's, Sta-bil's & MMO's we've all tried at one point or another have little to no effect on today's modern fuel formulations and I seriously doubt they were ever actually effective. Although guys that work on carburetors swear by the cleaning ability of straight Seafoam when used at 100%. Personally I think they'll get the same or better results with straight up Isopropyl Alcohol considering that is 70% of what Seafoam consists of.
When it comes to Diesel Powered engines, either of the above fuel additives from Primrose will also work with however, neither are as cost effective nor do they include the necessary ingredients needed to provide the remarkable results you'll get from 5007 Power Klenz ID, also from, you guessed it, Primrose.
5007 Power Klenz ID boosts Cetane by 40 points (4 numbers), improves lubricity, thermally & oxidatively stabilizes diesel fuel, extends fuel filter life and dissolves & inhibits IDID's (Internal Diesel Injector Deposits) that cause injector stiction, among others.
Sorry for the lengthy post, but I hope some of this information has been helpful.

Some good and interesting info here, but I can't help but think that maaaaaybe you work for Primrose? What say you of Kano Labs?

 

[SnowDrifter]

Some good and interesting info here, but I can't help but think that maaaaaybe you work for Primrose? What say you of Kano Labs?

First post and types out that. Yeah I think so. Especially because he keeps saying "we" .

So then. I get to be the tough customer I am. Since we have a representative here, perhaps he can save me from doing my own research for a couple hours

It chemically bonds with the oil? That means it forms a precipitate? Sounds dangerous. Wont that clog my filter and settle out?

Improves the viscosity index? By what means? What effects does this have on hot and cold viscosity? What sort of improvement? Thicker when hot? Thinner when cold? What sort of resistance does such an additive have to fuel dilution, shear down, and HTHS properties of the oil?


How does not-zddp plate my engine? It's a HTHS additive that forms a sacrificial coating only under high shear forces I. E. Flat tappets. Why does a roller engine need it? Since what you use for ZDDP substitute has an atypical behavior, what's to stop the material from depositing where it isn't wanted - such as inside the lifters, pushrods, oil filter, and other lubricant passageways? What data do you have that suggests this might be a benefit? What are the trade offs?



For the fuel additive, wouldn't reversing phase separation cause water to be forced through the system as opposed to being able to drain/suck it off? Won't that cause more corrosion?

 

[wjburken]

So then. I get to be the tough customer I am. Since we have a representative here, perhaps he can save me from doing my own research for a couple hours

Go get ‘em tiger!