Most of this is the inherent geometry of the front end, but you might have excessive positive caster which exacerbates it. During normal driving, straights and turns, all that really matters is camber and toe and at least a little positive caster. You don't want any neutral or, far worse, negative caster, though. There are specified caster settings for these rigs, and they're different from left to right to account for the crown of the road, the left side weight bias, etc. If you have too much positive caster, there's relatively little adverse effects. So, a lot of alignment shops focus on the camber and toe and as long as the caster is a degree or two positive and half-assed even left-to-right, they send it. Between camber and caster, one affects the other when adjusting them. The quick way that's "safe" is to start out with a known excessive amount of positive caster and adjust from there. This gives plenty of adjustment room to set the camber while ensuring that you still have positive caster. Once that's done, they adjust the toe, road test and done.
The only real adverse effects to this excessive positive caster is the tires leaning a lot when turning. It's not noticeable during normal driving as the turns are very slight. But, when turning sharply, as when navigating a parking lot, in or out of a driveway, etc., the lean is very pronounced and it increases exponentially with turning angle. The tire is being scrubbed sideways, so there's a lot of pull. It's often accompanied by tire squeal at low speeds, too.
Another trait is when backing up and turning, the wheel feels like it wants to turn more on its own.
