I had Goodridge stainless steel lines on mine and was very happy with them before I went with a Wilwood kit that needed different lines.
Front end Noise Need help!
- Thread starter Isaiah13
- Start date
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HiHoeSilver
Away!
Did you have the 5 or 6 line kit?
5 lines.
This could pose to be a problem, nearest highway is about 45 minutes away
No off-ramps within 45 minutes of me so hard stops it is haha.
I'll plan on doing this within the next week or two.
What stainless lines would you recommend?
That's a relief about the hub and suspension parts.
Thank you very much for the assistance, I really do appreciate it
Get in a big enough parking lot and be away from parked cars or a long stretch of road that you know will be empty and just go highway speed and then just apply brakes like you would on an off ramp but don't slam them on and try to lock them up, like a panic stop. That could override trying to duplicate your problem. I just assumed you were closer to a highway speed off ramp.
I'll check them, thanks.
How come you had to get new lines when you went with the Wilwood kit? Different thread pitch/count on the calipers?
Where is the 6th line located?
Thanks, I was curious to know as well.
I'll wait to give it a try this weekend. I appreciate the info.
Yeah, we live off the beaten path a little bit haha. Gotta love coastal NC
HiHoeSilver
Away!
I'll check them, thanks.
How come you had to get new lines when you went with the Wilwood kit? Different thread pitch/count on the calipers?
Where is the 6th line located?
Thanks, I was curious to know as well.
I'll wait to give it a try this weekend. I appreciate the info.
Yeah, we live off the beaten path a little bit haha. Gotta love coastal NC
The 6th line is over the rear axle. Trucks with RPO JL4 (active brakes) have 2 lines there as opposed to 1, like @Rocket Man.
I too bought from Goodridge, but have yet to install. I did read of guys having trouble with those center rear fittings being a different size or something. Hence my question to Mark on which kit he had.
Yes Wilwood has a different a npt size than OEM and you can use adapters but the kit came with Wilwood lines so I used them. I used the rear Goodridge ones on my Silverado when I did the disc brake conversion and someday Ill put the fronts on that truck too.
Oh ok gotcha. I'll have to check to see if I have RPO JL4.
When are you planning on installing them?
That's what I figured. Wilwood are nice, maybe one day haha.
Haha gitter done man
Still dealing with this noise and its really throwing me for a loop because it seems to have gotten worse at lower speeds.
After a few rough weeks at work I finally had a little time to check things out again.
Jacked it up so both front wheels were off the ground.
There was no play in either direction so I can rule out ball joints or tie rods.
Tried to free spin both wheels with them off the ground and again drivers spun relatively freely and the passenger did not. The passenger side was dragging the entire time while the drivers hit the pads once a revolution. I tried taking videos but seems as though I am not capable doing so so just take a minute and imagine the wheels dragging on the brakes
One thing I did notice is the rotors move on the hub. Now I know without them bolting down they are free floating but what gets me is the amount of play between the stud and hole in the rotor. Its far from a tight tolerance and though I know it gets tightened down once the wheel and lugs are installed. Its not a good feeling seeing how much play is there.
Ok onto the calipers and pads. Drivers side has been wearing evenly and there is quite a bit of pad left, they look almost new compared to my new pads.
The passenger side on the other hand, the inner pad looks great while the outer pad is almost to the wear strip. I took it off and check the sliders, they are both free and easy to move. Then checked the pistons. The lower piston was very easy to press in with a clamp but, the upper one was not. It actually took a little force to pop it free. This was the caliper I replaced because my original was sticking. Bought it at Advanced.
Conclusion, I am going to get new front calipers and probably put my new rotors and pads on at the same time.
Question = What calipers should I get? I'm thinking OE GM.
I did check to see if my rotors were warped but they seemed to be flat and square. After I burn through the new set of rotors I will start getting a different brand.
Sorry for the long drawn out post
Have a good day
After a few rough weeks at work I finally had a little time to check things out again.
Jacked it up so both front wheels were off the ground.
There was no play in either direction so I can rule out ball joints or tie rods.
Tried to free spin both wheels with them off the ground and again drivers spun relatively freely and the passenger did not. The passenger side was dragging the entire time while the drivers hit the pads once a revolution. I tried taking videos but seems as though I am not capable doing so so just take a minute and imagine the wheels dragging on the brakes
One thing I did notice is the rotors move on the hub. Now I know without them bolting down they are free floating but what gets me is the amount of play between the stud and hole in the rotor. Its far from a tight tolerance and though I know it gets tightened down once the wheel and lugs are installed. Its not a good feeling seeing how much play is there.
Ok onto the calipers and pads. Drivers side has been wearing evenly and there is quite a bit of pad left, they look almost new compared to my new pads.
The passenger side on the other hand, the inner pad looks great while the outer pad is almost to the wear strip. I took it off and check the sliders, they are both free and easy to move. Then checked the pistons. The lower piston was very easy to press in with a clamp but, the upper one was not. It actually took a little force to pop it free. This was the caliper I replaced because my original was sticking. Bought it at Advanced.
Conclusion, I am going to get new front calipers and probably put my new rotors and pads on at the same time.
Question = What calipers should I get? I'm thinking OE GM.
I did check to see if my rotors were warped but they seemed to be flat and square. After I burn through the new set of rotors I will start getting a different brand.
Sorry for the long drawn out post
Have a good day
I bought AC Delco reman calipers and they worked great. Amazon usually has good prices on them.Still dealing with this noise and its really throwing me for a loop because it seems to have gotten worse at lower speeds.
After a few rough weeks at work I finally had a little time to check things out again.
Jacked it up so both front wheels were off the ground.
There was no play in either direction so I can rule out ball joints or tie rods.
Tried to free spin both wheels with them off the ground and again drivers spun relatively freely and the passenger did not. The passenger side was dragging the entire time while the drivers hit the pads once a revolution. I tried taking videos but seems as though I am not capable doing so so just take a minute and imagine the wheels dragging on the brakes
One thing I did notice is the rotors move on the hub. Now I know without them bolting down they are free floating but what gets me is the amount of play between the stud and hole in the rotor. Its far from a tight tolerance and though I know it gets tightened down once the wheel and lugs are installed. Its not a good feeling seeing how much play is there.
Ok onto the calipers and pads. Drivers side has been wearing evenly and there is quite a bit of pad left, they look almost new compared to my new pads.
The passenger side on the other hand, the inner pad looks great while the outer pad is almost to the wear strip. I took it off and check the sliders, they are both free and easy to move. Then checked the pistons. The lower piston was very easy to press in with a clamp but, the upper one was not. It actually took a little force to pop it free. This was the caliper I replaced because my original was sticking. Bought it at Advanced.
Conclusion, I am going to get new front calipers and probably put my new rotors and pads on at the same time.
Question = What calipers should I get? I'm thinking OE GM.
I did check to see if my rotors were warped but they seemed to be flat and square. After I burn through the new set of rotors I will start getting a different brand.
Sorry for the long drawn out post
Have a good day
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