Front and rear sway bar end links

BeenChevy

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Anyone find a good fit for front and rear end links after 1.5-2.5" level?

In that past I used jeep end-links but came across these on ebay (for the low) and figured I'd try em out:

s-l500.jpg

Curious what others are finding out there as i'm striking out on much else.

For the front, I've used 3500 Silverado HD +1's but they're non-adjustable so still trying to find a decent set for a fair price. Let me know if any of you have found any good replacement options. If no, I may end up making my own for the front.
 
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BeenChevy

BeenChevy

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Ended going with the rear links above and they seem to handle well.

PXL_20220425_203220413.jpg

In front with cognito:

PXL_20220423_033633060.jpg
PXL_20220430_012034181.jpg
 
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Thrust

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What's your thoughts on the rear ones? I put new GM endlinks on when I installed a Hotchkis rear sway bar. The GM ones pivot at the sway bar attach point where the ones you show are making the red bushing do all the work.
 
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BeenChevy

BeenChevy

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Have yet to swap the pivoting with *new pivoting rear links which leaves bias in that regard. The pivoting design seems to go against my engineering-type thinking. The bushings are where you want the stress for an anti-roll/sway in my opinion. The pivot would make sense for stability during articulation though so there may be minor trade-off there.

Of 3 vehicles I've swapped to non-pivoting; and haven't looked back. Went with the longer rubicon links which performed well with rubber bushings and later swapped into black graphite impregnated energy suspension bushings in the jeep links which made little difference. In the 05 Tahoe I went with energy suspension bushings on both front and rear sway bars and end links and later swapped in black graphite impregnated on the sway bars themselves with no real change in feel.

What I can say is going from a worn pivoting to a new non-pivoting is an instant handling improvement on the highway - no question about it. The worn pivoting style allowed the rear to wag or lean in the wind with lesser predictability and control. I do a LOT of driving among the 3 vehicles so any change is noticeable especially when looking for specific improvements. On the 2015 XL I have the stock sway bars and beat on it quite a bit through higher speed highway maneuvers, favorite on-off ramps and round-a-bouts where I can break the tires loose or dig into the turn.

Were you able to notice anything when you upgraded to the hotchkis rear sb?
 

Thrust

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I tend to agree with you on the sway bar end links. I'm sure there was some compromise in the design for customer NVH levels that sales said needed to be met.

I didn't notice a huge improvement with the Hotchkis, but on the XL I think it's only a small improvement over stock. On the Tahoes and Yukons I believe it was a large improvement. Which leads to me question on the end links. I feel like going with something more adjustable and has less vertical movement.
 

Thrust

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Just a follow up on the Hotchkis sway bar. So it's been about 10-12 months since I installed it. I have been having some popping noise from the rear end as the Yukon enters into the driveway from the street. Narrowed it down to the sway bar by detaching the end links. Once I did that the noise disappeared. So I went and pulled the brackets that hold the sway bar bushings to add some teflon tape to the sway bar and PTFE grease to the bushings, and the Hotchkis supplied hardware was rusted solid. Had to use pb blaster to break them free. They are alan style bolts. I would advise anyone NOT to use the supplied hardware as it's not finished properly. I am going to get some chrome hardware.
 
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BeenChevy

BeenChevy

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Where about's are you located? Here in MN i'm dealing with the same rust issues. For suspension parts I don't really trust chrome hardware unless I can confirm it's high-quality. Stick with grade 8 or better if possible and the zinc coated hold up to rust pretty well from my experience without sacrificing strength.
 

Doubeleive

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if it's that much trouble finding something I would measure the oem set and find out how much extra length is needed and grab a longer bolt & sleeve from the hardware store and done.
measure what length you need
take 1 complete oem link with you to the hardware store
get 2 longer bolt's (same width and thread, pay attention to thread length or get full thread bolt's)
get a longer sleeve (this can be cut to length as needed for "2")
that's all you need as long as the thread and width matches you can use the rest of the oem hardware and make your own.
 

Thrust

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Where about's are you located? Here in MN i'm dealing with the same rust issues. For suspension parts I don't really trust chrome hardware unless I can confirm it's high-quality. Stick with grade 8 or better if possible and the zinc coated hold up to rust pretty well from my experience without sacrificing strength.
Located in Kansas. Agreed on what you said about hardware. When I looked at the Hotchkis stuff I figured it would do this but also figured they would have provided something better. Plan is to hit the hardware store and find a better product. Factory ones were pretty cruddy when I removed them to install the sway bar.
Also to note I did spray paint the sway bar bushing brackets that came from Hotchkis. They are a shiny chrome when new, but now look very dull.
 
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BeenChevy

BeenChevy

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If you don't find what you're looking for at the hardware store, the ones on thread 1 are $30 and limited lifetime warranty. I'd buy em again in a heartbeat. Quality pieces. Bushing can also be pressed out/swapped for something else. They adjust to the same length as the stock and you can go from there.
 

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