For those who have done AFM delete/cam swaps

Discussion in 'Performance' started by Ilikemtb999, Nov 23, 2018.

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  1. Ilikemtb999

    Ilikemtb999 Full Access Member

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    did you swap out the oil pump and timing chain? My plan was to go with a Texas-speed vvt stage 2 cam kit. Comes with new springs and push rods and the cam phaser limiter.

    Most AFM delete kits come with head gaskets, valley cover, lifters, lifter guides and head bolts. Do I need an oil pump and timing gear setup? I’ve got 95k on the clock.

    What head gaskets are the go to?
     
  2. randeez

    randeez Full Access Member

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    when i swapped mine, i didnt but engine was replaced under warranty by dealer with less than 5k miles. I would replace both with that many miles, not necessary but you'll be right there. even if they are fine and completely functional they'll have a pattern worn into them. the bolt that holds the cam to the actuator is a tty bolt and regulates oil flow and should be replaced... i dont think it was included with my afm delete kit. I would do hardened pushrods, nothing fancy just house brand 7.400 and trunion upgrade as well, i did CHE they were easy to set back up havent had any problems in about 30k miles since my swap

    i put ls9 head gaskets in when doing mine, with 6.2 bore though, everywhere says theyll be fine for any ls block but i dont know if id use them on a 5.3
     
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  3. iamdub

    iamdub Hold on... Lemme overthink this for a bit...

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    What Randy said. The stock timing set and oil pump is designed for 200K miles. You're at half that mileage, you'll be right there, and the parts are cheap insurance. You'll have the motor already torn apart to address this problematic AFM system, why not address the other small ones? Stock push rods are known to be weak and the rocker bearings are kinda 50/50. Definitely worth the extra steps to essentially "bulletproof" your engine.
     
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  4. Ilikemtb999

    Ilikemtb999 Full Access Member

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    Alright so here’s my list:
    TSP stage 2 vvt cam kit
    https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5332-texas-speed-53-vvt-camshaft-package.aspx

    Melling standard volume oil pump


    I’m confused on a timing set. Everything seems to be for 3 bolt but pretty sure the vvt cam is single bolt
     
  5. Ilikemtb999

    Ilikemtb999 Full Access Member

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  6. Lsnoob13

    Lsnoob13 Member

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    Hey, not trying to steal your thunder but I noticed you are installing a cam on the somewhat same engine as mine. You are installing a vvt cam right, mine is the l92 non vvt....I know this because of the shape of my valley cover and because my cam phaser is a 3 pin and not the active afm 5 pin connector. From what I've looked up GM put the stuff for afm in early models but didn't activate it....which mine is one of those. I have no vvt/afm/dod but my timing cover had the cam phaser. I had a deal go down with my engine to where I'm pretty much rebuilding the whole upper end of the engine, new blue beehive springs, Ls7 lifters, all new gaskets, a melling high volume oil pump and a BTR stage 2 v2 truck cam.....my question is the cam didn't state for vvt or non vvt engines...will I be ok installing a nonspesified cam....or do I need a vvt delete kit and all that jazz
     
  7. Moose912

    Moose912 Full Access Member

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    I did a stage 1 on my 6.2. Left AFM with limiter installed. I didn’t change pump or timing simply because I didn’t feel like the extra cost on pump and can easily do the timing set should it be an issue. I used Texas speed also and was very happy. I upgraded to arp bolts and used the chromoly rods supplied. Doesn’t come with manifold gaskets or exhaust. Also doesn’t come with valve cover gaskets FYI. I had to order an oil pump o ring for mine. I used dealer exhaust because the fel pro were a hybrid material and I wanted the stock metal ones. I also changed my oil pressure switch while I was in there. I didn’t upgrade head gasket simply because you “should” mill heads down to compensate the difference in thickness for compression issues. It is imperative you have some form of a tune/base tune before you start the truck after. I’d strongly advise pulling fuse or relay for fuel or injections/coils and hitting the key a few times to get oil flowing. It’ll be noisey at start but so worth it.
     
  8. iamdub

    iamdub Hold on... Lemme overthink this for a bit...

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    Holding the pedal to the floor while cranking keeps the injectors from firing- no need to remove fuses. I have a questionable lifter and mine sits all week long, so it drains and collapses. After sitting, I'll floor it and crank it until it stops on it's own (crank timer for starter protection), which is about 10 seconds. I let the starter cool for about 20 seconds then do it again. Then I release the pedal and start it as normal. It fires up instantly and often times doesn't tick. If I go straight to starting it after sitting, it ticks for about 3-6 seconds at most.

    I made up a pre-oiler with about $50 in parts to prime my bother's engine after an overhaul, but that engine was almost completely torn down and oil passages scrubbed. Plus, I'd be needing the pre-oiler on mine so the effort was worth it. Otherwise, I'd do the same "floor it and crank" method 5-6 times but with a few minutes in between to let the starter cool down more.
     
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  9. Lsnoob13

    Lsnoob13 Member

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    Ok so a VVT delete kits, all it is, is the 3 bolt cam gear and a LS3 timing cover.....I already have the non VVT 3 pin connector that came with the truck factory. Do I need a whole kit or can I just change the cam gear and keep the same timing cover? I've been thinking about this alot and unless there is something electrical that would prevent it I don't see why it wouldn't work.
     
  10. swathdiver

    swathdiver Full Access Member

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    Cam Phaser is VVT. The second journal has a groove for VVT oiling. BTR cam is probably non-VVT so you'll need to delete it and turn it off in the tune.
     

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