Finally Jumped on the Oil Catch Can Bandwagon

[Caligirl]

It’s definitely preventative. It’s also something that some engine designs are more prone to than others. The LS engine is known for this, in varying amounts for different generations of the LS.

If you really need to see, you would need to look in the intake, to determine if there’s any oil buildup in there.

Personally, knowing it’s a common issue, even though it’s less of a problem on my GMT800, I’m more than happy to take measures, to ensure less (or hopefully no-) oil is being sucked into the intake manifold.

I am the ounce of prevention person, my husband the if it ain't broke bloke. Seeing eye to eye on stuff like this is a bit challenging haha. We balance each other out when I get too concerned about what ifs and he needs prodding with procrastination. I found a few videos with a million views regarding how these cans MAY help avoid/delay big mula repairs-maybe that will convince, and if I can beg or bribe him to do it, I may see if I can jump on the bandwagon. Wish me luck

 

[Decker73]

Great thread, thank you to everyone participating.
I have a question on a 2008 Tahoe LTZ with a 5.3L, 170K miles.
The truck runs great, but have 2 concerns, one I just posted about earlier.
1, my cold OP is 30, once hot it goes to 40-50psi like normal. No clue, but seems backwards.
2, I had some condensation in the filler cap, and a little in the oil when changed.
The truck was well taken care of prior, I picked it up a few months ago. I only drive usually very short trips daily, and in PA., so weather is usually cold and damp. I figured that was the condensation part at least, have been letting it idle an extra 5-10 minutes daily, and oil is staying clean.
I'm going to check the Carfax on it and see if it shows the valve cover was ever serviced.
If not, could that cause the condensation, and screwy OP issues ? Thank you

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[rdhogg]

I tried to jump on the catch can bandwagon after deleting the AFM on the ECM on my new to me 2007 Tahoe as a stop gap until oil spray happens eventually and causes issues (hey, maybe I already have the new cover and it's not gonna happen???).

But after purchasing an inexpensive one and my husband checking the oil multiple times and losing absolutely no oil and still clean in the first 2000 or 3000 miles we have owned, he's not too keen on installing it... if something isn't broken why fix it type of thing, ya know? So I guess unless I start having issues, we are not checking to see if I have the new valve cover and no catch can :/ *crossing fingers* But he said he is willing to change the oil sooner like many of you recommend.

Anyone benefit from it when there is no apparent oil loss?

I have had my CC installed for about 6,000 , miles and I have no apparent oil loss during this time, but I changed my oil today and drained my CC and had about 2/3 cup of oil, And that 2/3 cup of oil that did not go into the intake manifold to gum up the works

 

[wsteele]

Great thread, thank you to everyone participating.
I have a question on a 2008 Tahoe LTZ with a 5.3L, 170K miles.
The truck runs great, but have 2 concerns, one I just posted about earlier.
1, my cold OP is 30, once hot it goes to 40-50psi like normal. No clue, but seems backwards.
2, I had some condensation in the filler cap, and a little in the oil when changed.
The truck was well taken care of prior, I picked it up a few months ago. I only drive usually very short trips daily, and in PA., so weather is usually cold and damp. I figured that was the condensation part at least, have been letting it idle an extra 5-10 minutes daily, and oil is staying clean.
I'm going to check the Carfax on it and see if it shows the valve cover was ever serviced.
If not, could that cause the condensation, and screwy OP issues ? Thank you

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

The condensation is likely because of the short trips, not enough time for the engine to get hot enough to vaporize condensation in the engine from previous cool down cycle. Quite normal, although regrettable.

I don't think the updated valve cover would affect that issue. The updated valve cover moved the hole on the underside of the cover away from an oil squirt coming up from the rocker assembly, so oil wouldn't be thrown directly into the PCV airflow and back into the intake, gumming things up in the combustion chamber. High oil consumption is the symptom in this area.

I also don't think the updated valve cover and AFM pressure relief valve deflector would affect cold oil pressures. I think maybe getting an analog oil pressure check to verify the sender is working properly would be my first step. Next would be to replace the OP sender and screen below it. At least that is the way I would approach it. But those pressures, while screwy and calling into question the validity of any pressure readings, are within spec according to the manual.

 

[Just Fishing]

I view the catch can as a method to keep the cat converter living longer + burning oil can cause pinging.
pinging = less power as the computer retards ign.
I also saw some images of extreme oil burning, broken rings etc.

The final straw was when i pulled my intake off for the dod delete over the winter.
Poured oil out everywhere!!!
the intake does appear to have a bit of a catch can built in, just no way to drain it short of yanking that intake.

Going back,
My vette was the first one to get it.
main reason was the pcv has a direct line to the #2 cylinder.
Two times i had the intake open (has a lid i can remove), i saw a clear mud slide going straight down that runner.

When i had the heads off for the cam and cylinder head upgrade, i decided it was also getting a catch can.

With the new valve covers, i don't catch much, but i do catch some.
That some = crud that won't build up in my #2 cylinder.


First thing i did with the wife new to her car, catch can install!!!
It's totally ghetto for now, it's a later task to find a permanent spot to keep it.


If your hubby is the type that finds excuses to not do something, no point to force him.
But feel free to remind him that it's a possible future money saver.

 

[89Suburban]

I am the ounce of prevention person, my husband the if it ain't broke bloke. Seeing eye to eye on stuff like this is a bit challenging haha. We balance each other out when I get too concerned about what ifs and he needs prodding with procrastination. I found a few videos with a million views regarding how these cans MAY help avoid/delay big mula repairs-maybe that will convince, and if I can beg or bribe him to do it, I may see if I can jump on the bandwagon. Wish me luck

It's such a cheap and easy mod and it let's you monitor the blowby of the motor. It's kind of an eyeglass into the health of your motor and helps keep the intake system cleaner. Really no cons to doing it. And if you get a red one like me you get more horsepower.

 

[Sparksalot]

I drained the can I put in thecopcar after an 1,800 mile road trip. About a half ounce of crap.

simple mod for the win.

 

[89Suburban]

I drained the can I put in thecopcar after an 1,800 trip. About a half ounce of crap.

simple mod for the win.

That's great!

 

[phottomatt]

After reading most (less then half ) of this thread, I noticed one of the recommended CCs was the JLT, the discription says it's for the driver side. What's the difference between driver and passenger CC and wouldn't you want to first put one on the passenger side?

 

[gooffeyguy]

After reading most (less then half ) of this thread, I noticed one of the recommended CCs was the JLT, the discription says it's for the driver side. What's the difference between driver and passenger CC and wouldn't you want to first put one on the passenger side?

Passenger side is considered the "clean" side. Air is sucked into the valve cover (crankcase) from the intake tube to make up for the air being sucked from the driver side valve cover through the PCV to the intake.