- Dec 25, 2014
- Reaction score
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
just turn on the front/rear heater full blast and windows down if it happens again... this will get the temp down in a pinchNew guy here, have read a lot, but never joined cause I didn't want to be the odd man out seeing as I don't have a Tahoe or Yukon, but anytjme I'd search for.. well.. anything really, this site was always first page, and has definitely helped me out a lot. Then I saw you had an 'Other' section.
I have an 05 Avalanche LT Z71, 5.3. 210k, that overheated on me one day after a very short drive.. maybe a mile or two. The temp gauge didn't max out but I got the message on the DIC. Was on a 3 lane rd no shoulder so had to keep driving another 30 seconds or so before I could pull over. The cooling fans were working (electric), the hoses were hot.
I figured it was the tstat not opening as there weren't any leaks that I could see and no coolant loss. Oil looks good. Changed tsat. Used the procedure shown in attached pics to refill. It's for an 02 but figured it would apply just the same. Maybe not?
Coolant level never dropped in the surge tank even though I had plenty left to add. Instead, it started smoking and a good quart at least boiled over and out onto the ground.
Never had an issue before, temp gauge had never been above ~190. I'm thinking water pump but they usually leak out the weephole, at least a little bit, right? Could the impeller have separated somehow? I did see on the tensioner pully what was either oil and dirt buildup, or possibly belt material. Belt is probably due for replacement, but alternator and PS pump are fine so would a bad belt really only not drive one component? I hate throwing parts at an issue and praying for the best, especially after I went against my better judgement on getting the thermostat but for <$10 I said f' it. Well it f'd me back ha. I read that the tstat is not supposed to be replaced by itself but a new inlet should be installed with it, which I did not do. Is that important?
Could it be a restriction in the cooling system? I've only had the truck a few months and was unable to procure any meaningful service history. I have discovered, however, that the coolant level sensor has vanished, and I can't find the connector that went to it..
I hate to break it to you but exhaust studs have been breaking on LS engines for over 20 years, no overheating required. Probably 80% of these engines have at least a couple broken, it’s a well known issue. So much so that several companies have designed clamps to hold the exhaust manifolds tight when removing the broken bolts isn’t easily accomplished.I will warn you, that if you overheat, the exhaust studs do break....
I highly recommend ARP. I’ve never heard of one of these breaking. This kit fits any LS based engine.Yeah, I know that the studs can be an issue. in the 21 years, and 270K that I had the 5.3, that was the only broken stud issue I had. I now have a 6.0, and I will likely upgrade the studs before the winter.
Your issues don't line up with the early 706 head issue, The complaint with those was a coolant loss and couldn't be found.
Yours sounds like an air pocket, pull upper hose off at radiator and pour in coolant through the hose to fill the engine and that'll push most of the air out so now the engine running can burp out the rest.
I've done many ls swaps and that's one of the easiest ways to purge air