Dreaded stability sys disabled message

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Fless

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We did do that...it came up with the code I posted above. I don't remember what the other 2 codes were. My cruise control doesn't work which is also why we thought the brake switch...n a new OEM switch didn't fix it. That's why I went looking thru the fuses.

It would be very helpful to document all the codes and post them up here.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics, please.

As folks have posted above, it would be helpful to us to assist you, if you could post all of the actual trouble codes, even if you have to get your mechanic to reconnect the scanner tool, and you document and post here all of the codes displayed.
 
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Centaurette

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It would be very helpful to document all the codes and post them up here.
I know. I'm going to try to catch my elusive mechanic on Monday to rescan it but 2 of the codes kept disappearing even without him clearing them. That's why I remembered only the one code...cuz it was the one that stayed.
 

wjburken

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I know. I'm going to try to catch my elusive mechanic on Monday to rescan it but 2 of the codes kept disappearing even without him clearing them. That's why I remembered only the one code...cuz it was the one that stayed.
Codes that come and go can point to a component that is on the ragged edge of failing.
 
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Centaurette

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Here's an update. In what I thought was a separate issue, my remote start wouldn't start running my truck unless the key was in and turned to Run. Thinking it might be in Valet mode, I went thru the sequence and found out it wasn't. So, when I tried to remote start it again, when it didn't work, I tried it with the key on Run again. This time, as it started, I noticed a Service Stability and another message that blipped off too fast to fully read, but related to the stabilitrak. So, since I was on my way over to see my mechanic, I mentioned this to him since the remote start ties into so many parts of the system. He put the scan tool on and a boatload more codes came up that weren't there before...3 out of 4 of my O2 sensors, clutch brake switch, etc...all coming up with low voltage. So...he has a sneaky suspicion that when my friend moved the underhood fuse box, he must've loosened up a fuse wire or a ground. That's been my gut feeling ever since this all started...that moving the fuse box would be a bad thing, but I'm no expert...just a girl that enjoys wrenching on her own vehicles. What I do know is there are too many components...esp electrically powered... to newer vehicles!! Lol I now know why my grandfather b*tched way back when he had to work on my grandmother's 87 Buick..."all these d@#m electronics don't belong in a car!" ;-)

She will be going to have a sleepover with my mechanic Sunday night so he can start fresh Monday morning in investigating the electrical system and tracking down the cause. I'll still be looking for feedback just in case that ISN'T the cause...at least I'll have another direction to go investigating. She's got so many more miles left in her and has been so good to my mom and now me that I don't want to start looking for another PITA to dump time and/or money into.
 
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Centaurette

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Hi all and Merry Christmas!!

Sorry it's been so long but between the weather, my job, and having tons of menial crap to do on my days off...including getting work done to my Tahoe...this is the first few minutes I've had to sit down and write this.

So, to update, my girl had her sleepover and my mechanic traced the electrical from the underhood fuse box. He found a few wires that were extremely loose and we had hoped that would fix the problem. Multiple drive cycles and 100 miles roundtrip later, it still didn't resolve the issue. I stopped at his shop on the way home, borrowed his scan tool and found 3 codes...

Ecm P0719, srs b0101 and abs c0161.

I'm not worried about the B0101 because it's an airbag sensor that comes and goes every few months for the past year or 2. Then, in talking with my friend, who used to work for my mechanic, he mentioned that my mechanic wondered if the wheel speed sensor got fried from the brake booster leak. I ordered the sensor, we replaced it and still had the issue. About 8 days later, I noticed that, when the message should have come on already, it hadn't. I thought maybe I didn't get it up to speed so I got it up to 40. Still no msg. Last ditch effort that always worked was the straightaway on the main drag to my house. I got it up to 60 and even if it took til I got in the driveway, it would've come on... but it never did. I was so excited ...til the next time I drove it. The message came back like it's the new normal. *Sigh*

Now...another weird thing happened that I'm not sure if it's related...is a few days later, I went to start my truck and the headlights started flashing. Long story short, it was my remote start causing it and it would stop flashing when I took it out of Park, but do it again after turning off and turning the key even just to On, but not running. A quick tap of the Valet button on the remote start unit stopped the flashing headlights. Since the remote start is tied into so many components, my head is spinning on which component is actually screwing up...or if the issues are interrelated.

I will be making an appt with my electronics place to figure out the remote start side of it since I get a Low or No RPM from the diagnostics...it will crank over but won't actually start.

You guys have been great in throwing out ideas so I'll look forward to what y'all come up with next.
 

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