Cross country trip MN to AZ

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Atrevino0497

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Hello , I have a 2013 Tahoe LTZ 5.3l runs amazing with 132k on the odometer. I’m planning on moving to Casa Grande, AZ this summer from Fairmont, MN which is 1,686 miles away.

I have done a full service tuneup myself , I changed the brakes and rotors, front and rear diff fluid, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, new plugs and wires, air filter, serpentine belt and battery, bank 1 downstream and bank 2 upstream o2 sensors. Cleaned maf sensor and throttle body. she also has new tires and a fresh alignment.

Besides another oil change what else should I be looking into? I checked hoses and cooler lines. Would it be better to replace the hoses and even the water pump?

Any advice is appreciated and Thankyou in advance!
 
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Doubeleive

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Hello , I have a 2013 Tahoe LTZ 5.3l runs amazing with 132k on the odometer. I’m planning on moving to Casa Grande, AZ this summer from Fairmont, MN which is 1,686 miles away.

I have done a full service tuneup myself , I changed the brakes and rotors, front and rear diff fluid, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, new plugs and wires, air filter, serpentine belt and battery, bank 1 downstream and bank 2 upstream o2 sensors. Cleaned maf sensor and throttle body. she also has new tires and a fresh alignment.

Besides another oil change what else should I be looking into? I checked hoses and cooler lines. Would it be better to replace the hoses and even the water pump?

Any advice is appreciated and Thankyou in advance!
I would do the heater hoses and T's just as a preventative measure, not for any other reason. I recomend oem cost is about $100 or so
water pump should be fine for a while yet, after 160k
coolant flush, brake flush and power steering flush are annual things for me.
if you do the hoses and T's do a flush and kill 2 birds with 1 stone
HOSES.JPG
 

intheburbs

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I would do upper and lower hoses. Lower recently failed on my 09 Denali, crippling it.

I'm agnostic on the heater Ts. Still original ones in both trucks - 08 with 240k and 09with 150k. One of them fails, I'll clamp off the hoses and drive it home to repair.

I do always keep a spare serpentine in the truck.

Sounds like you've done all the biggies.

Send it!
 

swathdiver

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Hello , I have a 2013 Tahoe LTZ 5.3l runs amazing with 132k on the odometer. I’m planning on moving to Casa Grande, AZ this summer from Fairmont, MN which is 1,686 miles away.

I have done a full service tuneup myself , I changed the brakes and rotors, front and rear diff fluid, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, new plugs and wires, air filter, serpentine belt and battery, bank 1 downstream and bank 2 upstream o2 sensors. Cleaned maf sensor and throttle body. she also has new tires and a fresh alignment.

Besides another oil change what else should I be looking into? I checked hoses and cooler lines. Would it be better to replace the hoses and even the water pump?

Any advice is appreciated and Thankyou in advance!
That's only 24 hours of run time, I wouldn't worry about it. But if the hoses let go on the way, you'd be cursing me! LOL
 

Joseph Garcia

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As @swathdiver stated, changing hoses and Tees for this relatively short trip is probably optional. But, as @Doubeleive and @OR VietVet stated, you should replace ALL cooling system hoses and Tees in the not too distant future, before you are unexpectedly forced to change them.

At 148,000 miles, I had not yet changed them all out, and look what happened (fortunately, I was 2 miles from home).

Cooling Tee Hose Rupture.jpg
 
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Atrevino0497

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I would do the heater hoses and T's just as a preventative measure, not for any other reason. I recomend oem cost is about $100 or so
water pump should be fine for a while yet, after 160k
coolant flush, brake flush and power steering flush are annual things for me.
if you do the hoses and T's do a flush and kill 2 birds with 1 stone
View attachment 400573
Funny story that you said this. I ended up replacing my alternator this morning because it was back and fourth on voltage between 12.80 and 14.75 last night at the carwash. When I got done I put my engine cover back on and hear a hissing water noise and sure enough I barely bumped the white valve for the heater hose and it broke in half. So I ended up replacing both with dorman
 
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Atrevino0497

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As @swathdiver stated, changing hoses and Tees for this relatively short trip is probably optional. But, as @Doubeleive and @OR VietVet stated, you should replace ALL cooling system hoses and Tees in the not too distant future, before you are unexpectedly forced to change them.

At 148,000 miles, I had not yet changed them all out, and look what happened (fortunately, I was 2 miles from home).

View attachment 400618
I just replaced both after replacing my alternator and the engine cover bumped the white one gently and coolant started rushing out. Ugh lol. I got the black one replace too while I was under there. It’s a tight squeeze that’s for sure but I got her done. Thankyou for the advice though. Luckily I broke it in my driveway by accident rather than on the side of the road
 

Doubeleive

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Funny story that you said this. I ended up replacing my alternator this morning because it was back and fourth on voltage between 12.80 and 14.75 last night at the carwash. When I got done I put my engine cover back on and hear a hissing water noise and sure enough I barely bumped the white valve for the heater hose and it broke in half. So I ended up replacing both with dorman
if they were the new design you should be ok for a while. I personally do not recomend them for the heater connections, some people have reported them failing in a year, maybe 2 if not sooner. they are prone to develop leaks from what I have seen but dorman did re-design them at some point
if the part number ended in "CD" that stands for "changed design"
 

petethepug

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Even before I could type in those pesky heater hose barbs, they beat to it. Replacing the plastic expansion tank and the cap is another way to stave off an intermittent overheat. The expansion tanks crack and slowly allow coolant to leak as vapor so it's almost impossible to see there's a problem.

Verify you've actually have a jack and tire iron in back. I'd go so far as to bring a floor or bottle jack, 12V air pump, 5-6 flares and some 4x4 lumbar to safely change your tire if you're stuck in the sticks at night. Verify your 12V receptacles don't have blown fuses for the phone chargers. Super aggressively clean the windscreen and apply rainx.

What are you running for tunes? Factory radio or navi?
 

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