You want the throwout to contact the fingers squarely, so when you measure pressure plate you measure from inside diameter of throwout bearing where fingers are longer. Not at end of fingers. Make sense. Now adjust Ball stud so throwout is square when it touches fingers. Alot of measuring but worth it. Try setting up a rear end right! Or worse a RWD transaxle.
Clutch job from BEEP BEEP haha
- Thread starter Matthew Jeschke
- Start date
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Matthew Jeschke
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I made a folder with all our photos from this job linked below:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1E9PEJ1jUz6GQdhG0wL9C1gGI0BABN6Fe?usp=sharing
These maybe interesting, it video with a borescope inside the bell housing:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1grRgJPNauNHWUplybaEQJuk6XWmkbeBS/view?usp=sharing
The second we started the engine and actuated the clutch with the transmission in nuetral:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T8OYcAQpijNMuoDYeYTWlF3DAIrbJtiG/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1E9PEJ1jUz6GQdhG0wL9C1gGI0BABN6Fe?usp=sharing
These maybe interesting, it video with a borescope inside the bell housing:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1grRgJPNauNHWUplybaEQJuk6XWmkbeBS/view?usp=sharing
The second we started the engine and actuated the clutch with the transmission in nuetral:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T8OYcAQpijNMuoDYeYTWlF3DAIrbJtiG/view?usp=sharing
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Matthew Jeschke
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Noticed something interesting. Looking at the new clutch we pulled out. I found a wear mark that shouldn't be there. It's on the pressure plate side. Like something was barely touching it and wore a slight ring into the hub assembly. Additionally, the back of the hub is slightly scared and polished...
On another note, brake cleaner and acetone was used to clean the new clutch. I think should have just used soapy water. However, the manufacturer didn't advise on how to clean it before installation. I'm not sure if that's what caused these but there is some delaminating material on edges in a few spots now. Can this clutch be used?
On another note, brake cleaner and acetone was used to clean the new clutch. I think should have just used soapy water. However, the manufacturer didn't advise on how to clean it before installation. I'm not sure if that's what caused these but there is some delaminating material on edges in a few spots now. Can this clutch be used?
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Matthew Jeschke
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Also double checking the factory service manual. They discourage machining the flywheel. We called the shop that previously did the work. It's sounds very likely they machined the flywheel flat, additionally that is something I measured with a straight edge and feeler gauges. It was flatter than my 0.0025" feeler gauge.
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Matthew Jeschke
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I had wondered about that. I had my buddy ask the LUK rep about the clurch chip. He said it was fine / wouldn't hurt anything...
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Also- usually in a service manual there is a section with wear limits/ machining limits. They sell parts too remember? Clutch takes alot of abuse-they are tough.
Some guys just spray brakekleen on clutches and brakes to get oil off surface from fingers. If oil soaked, replace.
Start thinking instead of responding quickly, What else touches clutch hub?
Some guys just spray brakekleen on clutches and brakes to get oil off surface from fingers. If oil soaked, replace.
Start thinking instead of responding quickly, What else touches clutch hub?
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Matthew Jeschke
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New problem *sigh* flywheel to crankshaft bolts are torque to yield 50 ft /lbs + 60 Degrees.
In our work they have been removed two times. We suspect the previous clutch jobs they removed them AT least once as we can tell flywheel was machined. Possibly 3 more times. I'm scared to death these will snap off and change a manageable problem into a nightmare.
We cannot find the bolt though. It's obviously a 7/16" grade 8 bolt. This is where it get's ***** though... Appears to be 23 or 24 turns per inch?
Nobody makes a bolt like that. Called ARP and they said 7/16" by 20 TPI but I bought some of those and they don't fit in the crankshaft. I thought maybe is a metric bolt... well I cannot find M11 bolts only 7/16" Looks like a custom one off for this vehicle.
Scared to death we'll put these bolts back in the crank and they'll snap off. Also worried if we don't do the extra 60 Degrees they might sheer off under load and grande the transmission.
In our work they have been removed two times. We suspect the previous clutch jobs they removed them AT least once as we can tell flywheel was machined. Possibly 3 more times. I'm scared to death these will snap off and change a manageable problem into a nightmare.
We cannot find the bolt though. It's obviously a 7/16" grade 8 bolt. This is where it get's ***** though... Appears to be 23 or 24 turns per inch?
Nobody makes a bolt like that. Called ARP and they said 7/16" by 20 TPI but I bought some of those and they don't fit in the crankshaft. I thought maybe is a metric bolt... well I cannot find M11 bolts only 7/16" Looks like a custom one off for this vehicle.
Scared to death we'll put these bolts back in the crank and they'll snap off. Also worried if we don't do the extra 60 Degrees they might sheer off under load and grande the transmission.
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Matthew Jeschke
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Okay so we bolted the transmission back up to the motor. I spun the driveshaft by hand easily with clutch pedal 1/2 way down. Pushing all the way down didn't make much difference. We could hear a light rubbing but I'm assuming is just because the clutch disk has to rest somewhere....
Now here's where I'm SUPER nervous. Those stupid flywheel bolts they don't make anymore. We lubed them up with spray silicon. Then put blue lock tight at the end. My buddy torqued them in. He said wow these went in easy. (Last time w/o lube he could barely get the extra 60 degree turn w/ massive breaker bar).
I'm damn nervous those aren't to spec... I asked a old mechanic here in town. He said he always sprays bolts with lubricant prior to torquing. I typically do too. However, I've not used that technique on anything quite so critical.
I want to make sure these flywheel bolts don't come loose. Really worried about that. Any thoughts? Googling "Torque bolts with lubricant or not" comes up with comments as to either way / no definitive answer.
Now here's where I'm SUPER nervous. Those stupid flywheel bolts they don't make anymore. We lubed them up with spray silicon. Then put blue lock tight at the end. My buddy torqued them in. He said wow these went in easy. (Last time w/o lube he could barely get the extra 60 degree turn w/ massive breaker bar).
I'm damn nervous those aren't to spec... I asked a old mechanic here in town. He said he always sprays bolts with lubricant prior to torquing. I typically do too. However, I've not used that technique on anything quite so critical.
I want to make sure these flywheel bolts don't come loose. Really worried about that. Any thoughts? Googling "Torque bolts with lubricant or not" comes up with comments as to either way / no definitive answer.
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