Can I replace just the CV joint? or does the entire axle need to be rebuilt?

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SpaceBaller01

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While changing my transmission fluid, I saw that my driver-side CV joint boot was completely ripped open. I have no idea how long it's been like this. I do get some clicking when I turn though, not going straight though. I was originally looking to get one of the heavy duty Cardone's for $78 at Rock Auto, but have heard those aren't quite as good as OEM. However I also saw that I can buy a new joint on Rock Auto, GM. Would it make sense to just replace the exposed joint on that axle and put a new boot on that?
If not, what would be the best move here?
 

OR VietVet

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I would do the whole axle shaft. If one boot is torn, the other may not be far behind. You also didn't say which boot was torn, inner or outer. I would assume the outer since they usually go before an inner. I also assume you are in a salt on the roads area.

 

B-train

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Agreed. If you hear clicking noises, the damage is done. The days of rebuilding axle shafts and new boots has pretty much gone to the wayside. Lots of headache to do, and then you still have an old shaft. For less than $100 I'd just throw a new one in. 6 bolts and 1 nut and you're done. Just make sure to torque the axle nut to the correct spec so you don't end up with a bearing issue later on from over-torquing it.
 
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SpaceBaller01

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Correct on both counts. It is the outer joint with the torn boot. Also we do have salt on the roads yes (though not heavily like in the rust belt though).
I would do the whole axle shaft. If one boot is torn, the other may not be far behind. You also didn't say which boot was torn, inner or outer. I would assume the outer since they usually go before an inner. I also assume you are in a salt on the roads area.

 
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SpaceBaller01

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Agreed. If you hear clicking noises, the damage is done. The days of rebuilding axle shafts and new boots has pretty much gone to the wayside. Lots of headache to do, and then you still have an old shaft. For less than $100 I'd just throw a new one in. 6 bolts and 1 nut and you're done. Just make sure to torque the axle nut to the correct spec so you don't end up with a bearing issue later on from over-torquing it.
Yeah that's what I've heard as well. I'm usually pretty funny about torque specs anyways, so yeah that won't be an issue. Would it make sense to go ahead and replace both sides while I'm at it?
 

B-train

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Depending on the miles. I've done just 1 at a time as needed. Just give the other side a quick gander and see how the boots look. You can also jack up that tire, turn the wheels, and spin it by hand to see how it feels and sounds.
 

OR VietVet

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Yeah that's what I've heard as well. I'm usually pretty funny about torque specs anyways, so yeah that won't be an issue. Would it make sense to go ahead and replace both sides while I'm at it?
Check what the shipping fees would be to help with the decision of just 1 or two, but IMO, I would do both at the same time. You are already under there. Do two and be done with it. Get dirty once. If you look at my build thread, you will see I did complete systems replacement because of "getting dirty once" and I hate doing one piece at a time. But "being a thousandaire" helps too.
 
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SpaceBaller01

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Check what the shipping fees would be to help with the decision of just 1 or two, but IMO, I would do both at the same time. You are already under there. Do two and be done with it. Get dirty once. If you look at my build thread, you will see I did complete systems replacement because of "getting dirty once" and I hate doing one piece at a time. But "being a thousandaire" helps too.
Fair enough.

It's $3 more on Amazon but have Prime, so the cost there is negligible.

Yeah that's my thought there. I figure it doesn't seem that hard to do, I'd rather just do it once and then not have to worry about it again for a long while.
 

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