Sparksalot
Supporting Member
What head unit do you have?
Building the SS(V) TrailHoe
- Thread starter Bill 1960
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
It’s the Pioneer in my sig, turn your phone sideways to see it. One of many things I’ve learned on this forum!
We have wandered over into UT. Spent some time today exploring a slot canyon. This landscape makes me feel small.
The Hoe is turning out to be a decent rock crawler for a big fat girl. Traversed some relatively gnarly stuff today with minimal difficulty because the approach, break over, and departure angles are so high.
Hopefully one day I’ll get some pictures on one of the more challenging spots, but it’s hard to drive it AND play photographer.
The Hoe is turning out to be a decent rock crawler for a big fat girl. Traversed some relatively gnarly stuff today with minimal difficulty because the approach, break over, and departure angles are so high.
Hopefully one day I’ll get some pictures on one of the more challenging spots, but it’s hard to drive it AND play photographer.
A little maintenance today: replaced a faulty wheel speed sensor LR. Forecast is for rain so I might need traction control if the dust turns to mud around here.
Also cleaned out the vent caps for differentials and the fuel tank vent valve. These are poorly placed and will accumulate mud and clog the caps. Front diff is on the LF coil tower. Rear vents are behind the fuel filler where the rear tire sprays mud all over them. Lately I’ve had difficulty filling the tank and getting a code for fuel tank vent valve malfunction, hopefully this will correct that.
Relocating all those vents is on my to-do list when I’m home again.
Also cleaned out the vent caps for differentials and the fuel tank vent valve. These are poorly placed and will accumulate mud and clog the caps. Front diff is on the LF coil tower. Rear vents are behind the fuel filler where the rear tire sprays mud all over them. Lately I’ve had difficulty filling the tank and getting a code for fuel tank vent valve malfunction, hopefully this will correct that.
Relocating all those vents is on my to-do list when I’m home again.
RooTBeeRthe1st
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2018
- Posts
- 1,024
- Reaction score
- 2,354
I've had my rear diff breather hose pop off a few times. I need to buy some hose and replace/extend all of them one of these days.
Forgot to mention some other maintenance yesterday; air filters.
The engine air filter was not very dirty, despite months of dirt road operation. I was concerned that the alterations to the front would let more dust into the front fender where it draws air, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. Air intake is stock. Put in a new filter anyway.
The cabin air filter OTOH was really dirty and after a new one the air flow to the dash vents is much improved.
I can only conclude the inside of the truck must be dirtier than the outside.
The engine air filter was not very dirty, despite months of dirt road operation. I was concerned that the alterations to the front would let more dust into the front fender where it draws air, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. Air intake is stock. Put in a new filter anyway.
The cabin air filter OTOH was really dirty and after a new one the air flow to the dash vents is much improved.
I can only conclude the inside of the truck must be dirtier than the outside.
I knew eventually the extra width would be an issue, and today I turned back from trail with a squeeze between a boulder on the right and a washout on the left. Just couldn’t make it, the LF was sliding down into the wash.
And there’s the atrocious mud tossing when it’s wet.
I do have some ideas, specifically when I get back home, I may fabricate a lowered set of frame mounts for the UCA and for the steering rack, and drop them 4”. Then I could toss out the wider lift spindles and their CV spacers, and reinstall OEM spindles. Essentially returning to all stock front geometry, but with 4” of lift. And the ability to return to OEM offset wheels, which will reduce track width as well and get the tires back under the fenders.
It’s either that, or get a “Wide Load” banner and drape on her ass.
And there’s the atrocious mud tossing when it’s wet.
I do have some ideas, specifically when I get back home, I may fabricate a lowered set of frame mounts for the UCA and for the steering rack, and drop them 4”. Then I could toss out the wider lift spindles and their CV spacers, and reinstall OEM spindles. Essentially returning to all stock front geometry, but with 4” of lift. And the ability to return to OEM offset wheels, which will reduce track width as well and get the tires back under the fenders.
It’s either that, or get a “Wide Load” banner and drape on her ass.
Yesterday we did 25 miles of relentless rough track with a barrage of rocks and ruts. Which finally inspired me to test the ride difference with the front swaybar disconnected.
Much better. It significantly reduced the harshness of the sideways rolling when she encounters uneven terrain.
After several drives on asphalt I can feel the difference, but it’s not enough to make me want to reconnect it any time soon. After all, this is NOT a vehicle set up for high - G cornering!
Much better. It significantly reduced the harshness of the sideways rolling when she encounters uneven terrain.
After several drives on asphalt I can feel the difference, but it’s not enough to make me want to reconnect it any time soon. After all, this is NOT a vehicle set up for high - G cornering!
Similar threads
