Broken Motor Mounts

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Luie

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Posts
124
Reaction score
116
I had to replace my engine mounts a few years ago and for the life of me cant remember where or what brand they are. Im guessing off Amazon...
 

Meccanoble

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2016
Posts
1,166
Reaction score
353
Location
Georgia
No painting of any kind is necessary.

Here's some at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-L...Hex-Head-Cap-Screws-10-Pack-9114719/310516216

Apparently, 20mm is actually a standard/common length. Maybe they're just always out of stock when I shop for them. They're out of stock at my local Home Depot. Get 20mm and you won't have to grind anything, just screw 'em right in, with or without a little thread locker if you want. You could stick something in one of the holes, and hold your fingernail on it to mark the depth so you'd know if a 25mm bolt would work in case the 20mm isn't available. Don't have a metric ruler? Just know that one inch is 25.4mm. So, if you have right at an inch of depth or a little more, then you can use a 25mm bolt. You could always use a thick washer to space it out if it comes to that. I'd get washers anyway. It's just four bolts in four holes- nothing complicated.

I'm sure any decent local hardware store (Ace, True Value, whatever mom-and-pop store is close to you, etc.) would have what you need as well. No need for dealership visit or cost, if they even have them in stock.

My goodness I feel blessed. Few things!

First, I thought the 4 bolts that go into engine were same as the one that goes into frame. The engine side is a LOT shorter than the side that goes into frame. If I ran to this trying to fix on my own, I would have been stressed exponentially!!!

Secondly, I went to Home Depot looking for a similar bolt but wanted the hex flange. Not sure if it matters. I found some but they were silver like these and the guy that worked there told me they were not rated Grade 8. The ones I wanted take a week to come in. I didnt look at the non flange type like what you sent.

I DESPERATELY ran to Napa with failure but O'Reilly's had a Dorman set that were rated Grade 10.9 and GOLD like the Home Depot guy recommended. I also got blue loctite to use just to play it safe as my torque ability in a tight spot is now questionable.

I am so grateful for all the resources I encountered today. I first looked at that mount and thought the bolts snapped in the engine (cried inside) to now being able to possibly get this installed today! I'll keep you all posted.
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Posts
6,284
Reaction score
12,260
Location
St. Louis
Just curious, because I'm not familiar with GM mounts, but how many bolts does one take for each side?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,712
Reaction score
44,433
Location
Li'l Weezyana
My goodness I feel blessed. Few things!

First, I thought the 4 bolts that go into engine were same as the one that goes into frame. The engine side is a LOT shorter than the side that goes into frame. If I ran to this trying to fix on my own, I would have been stressed exponentially!!!

Secondly, I went to Home Depot looking for a similar bolt but wanted the hex flange. Not sure if it matters. I found some but they were silver like these and the guy that worked there told me they were not rated Grade 8. The ones I wanted take a week to come in. I didnt look at the non flange type like what you sent.

I DESPERATELY ran to Napa with failure but O'Reilly's had a Dorman set that were rated Grade 10.9 and GOLD like the Home Depot guy recommended. I also got blue loctite to use just to play it safe as my torque ability in a tight spot is now questionable.

I am so grateful for all the resources I encountered today. I first looked at that mount and thought the bolts snapped in the engine (cried inside) to now being able to possibly get this installed today! I'll keep you all posted.

Yes, the gold is the zinc chromate, the anti-corrosion coating usually associated with the high-strength machine bolts. It's durable but not thick so it doesn't cause fitment problems. Plain zinc is the bright silver coating which is a little less durable, is cheaper, and is more common everywhere else. There's a whole lot of other factors in bolt material and coatings but you can Google that if you ever find yourself bored enough to geek out on it. Glad you're making progress!
 

Meccanoble

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2016
Posts
1,166
Reaction score
353
Location
Georgia
The 2 bolts closer to the front of the car were easy, I was able to torque. I torqued to 50 ft/lbs to play it safe. The 2 on the side closer to the inside of car were harder as I remembered from previous installs. I was able to hand tight the one closest to driver side but will need a smaller ratchet with angles to properly tighten the last one. Needed a quick break
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
25,961
Reaction score
50,621
Location
Oregon
The 2 bolts closer to the front of the car were easy, I was able to torque. I torqued to 50 ft/lbs to play it safe. The 2 on the side closer to the inside of car were harder as I remembered from previous installs. I was able to hand tight the one closest to driver side but will need a smaller ratchet with angles to properly tighten the last one. Needed a quick break
Be careful if your block is aluminum that you don’t over torque them and strip or deform the threads. Torque specs are for a reason and you went more than 25% over spec.
 

Meccanoble

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2016
Posts
1,166
Reaction score
353
Location
Georgia
The jack lifting the engine up has 7" high of wood. The top 2 pieces are no more than 3" wide.
 

Meccanoble

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2016
Posts
1,166
Reaction score
353
Location
Georgia
Be careful if your block is aluminum that you don’t over torque them and strip or deform the threads. Torque specs are for a reason and you went more than 25% over spec.

Thanks for the advice. I seen 100 tq would be ok and thought 50 would be no biggie. I ended up using a wrench to get that last bolt as tight as I could. That front DIFF seems to limit so much access.

My test drive was successful. Noise is gone and that start up seems quick.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
128,790
Posts
1,805,497
Members
91,773
Latest member
wbhidalgo17
Top