Broken Motor Mounts

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SwaggerLikeBah

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Just did my drivers mount in my 2010 GMC Sierra Denali 6.2 with the OEM H3 mount. I had read all 53 pages of this forum before hand so I knew what was in store. Less than 3 hours start to finish. Floor jack with special wood 2x to lift on the front of the engine between the diff and the steering. Dealing with the fire wall side bolts was the biggest pain. Did all the work from above laying over the grill. Steering shaft out. Old mount slipped right out with enough engine lifting. H3 mount took a minute to slip in when I figured out which way it wanted to go. Hand tightened the block bolts. lowered the engine. 3 frame bolts went in without a problem. Buttoned everything up and done. Ribs bruised and hands cut up but saved the $500 or so doing it myself. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences in here. Really helped 1000%
 

Meccanoble

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Just did my drivers mount in my 2010 GMC Sierra Denali 6.2 with the OEM H3 mount. I had read all 53 pages of this forum before hand so I knew what was in store. Less than 3 hours start to finish. Floor jack with special wood 2x to lift on the front of the engine between the diff and the steering. Dealing with the fire wall side bolts was the biggest pain. Did all the work from above laying over the grill. Steering shaft out. Old mount slipped right out with enough engine lifting. H3 mount took a minute to slip in when I figured out which way it wanted to go. Hand tightened the block bolts. lowered the engine. 3 frame bolts went in without a problem. Buttoned everything up and done. Ribs bruised and hands cut up but saved the $500 or so doing it myself. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences in here. Really helped 1000%

You not joking about bruised ribs. My chest cavity still pains me when I put pressure with my finger. I had to use some padding to protect myself reaching over that grille/bay half way through the install. Still feel some pain in my shoulders extending from driver wheel well to tighten bolts.

Make sure whoever does this install sets up enough wood stacked up to lift engine. I used 4 pieces of half inch MDF wood stacked on top of each other (top 2 about 3 inches long). I lifted from back end of oil pan. There is enough space to lift right next to the front sway bar but had car on ramps and the jack was maxed. Scared me because I thought it wasnt going to be high enough to slide the mounts in and out and already uninstalled the original. Thankfully it was still enough to get it all done.
 

B2sdad

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I agree with others, if you have the time and a few more proper tools, it will be much less difficult. For me I only had last night after work, and have a 2nd car if needed for the next few days, so I decided to attempt it, knowing if needed I could run to Walmart for tools. I have to go back to work this morning and family coming this weekend... and in temp housing currently, the circumstances are extenuating for me.

Bell housing was fine; I used a piece of steel to spread the load across the ribs of the bell housing. If you have it, a jack and piece of wood would be ideal. Your not lifting the truck with it, just the engine about 2/3 inch at most. I was careful and lucky. I was able to do it all without lifting the truck. Not recommended, but doable if in a pinch... just don’t jack the truck up from the bell housing... and don’t jack the bell housing with a tiny point on the jack.

I did it all from the top, there was just enough space to look through the side fender with out removal to see the bolts... those 4 bolts on the block... that will be the most frustrating part. If you have a flex extension this will help significantly. I decided to try without more tools, figuring by the time I ran to Walmart to get one I’ll be able to struggle through in the same amount of time. Be CAREFUL not to damage the wires especially the tiny one for the wheel speed sensor.

Getting the old one out was a puzzle, but bending the heat Sheild a bit (no worries there because your not using that anymore) and fidgeting it around you can get it out. A step stool will help reach it all... laying on the engine bay hurts sometimes. I used a moving blanket to cushion it a bit.


Theres a couple more vids out there, but this one gave me the courage to attack it. You can see this guys struggle with it and know what to expect. I was expecting a PItA so I was able to stay calm.

I’ve been a backyard/street/diy/“out of necessity” mechanic since I was 15 (now 32) doing things the hard way because it was the only way to get to work. Over the past years I usually have much more time and proper tools/lifts to get the job done, but this time I didn’t. After spending too much to have shop install engine mounts just 6 months ago, I was determined to do it myself. I tapped into those past “hard time” experiences to get through this one.

At least now a days I have a cell phone that doubles as a mirror, and can stick in places I can’t see to record video/pics of what I’m trying to reach (helps a lot for the 4 bolts on the block).

If I could do this in parking lot, at night, with only a 15mm socket, 3” and 1” extension, a pair of channel locks, the jack that came with the truck and piece of steel, and my mechanics gloves were a luxury.... most anyone could do this with a little more time & tools.

*not advocating or recommending to do it the way I did, just sharing the experience for knowledge to all.

But I couldn’t have done it without Tahoeyukonforum.


Well said Sir!
 

ls1frc

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My 140k has the driver's side broken.

I bought the H3 mounts, but am having second thoughts. I really like the quiet interior and would hate if it added any vibrations.
 

tgui

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I have both H3 mounts. There is just a little more vibration, nothing like poly mounts I ran with atomic stuff. Personally I didnt give a shit with poly atomic mounts. Some things need to pass the wife test.....
 
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