Broken Motor Mounts

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KChevy75

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I replaced the driver side myself last week on my 2007 Suburban RWD.

It's not a quick and easy job. It took me about and hour and a half.

The manual says to remove the wheel well liner. I didn't.

I did everything from under the hood and from underneath.

I'm all bruised and scratched up.

I don't plan on doing the passenger side any time soon.

I understand now why they charge so much to do this.
 

TXMaverick

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Same thing on mine!

Osidesurfer365,

We understand that you would like to resolve your vehicle issue at a third party company to save you money.

Regarding the cracked dash board concern, each case is unique and we do look at each case on a case by case bases. I cannot guarantee a different result regarding cost assistant but I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you please private message me you full name, address, phone number, VIN, and exact mileage. and preferred dealership?

Regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care


Jennifer,
I am having same problem with mine. It has 115K and is driven very easily by a teacher mainly just back and forth to school. I don't understand why GM choose such a wimpy motor mount for a vehicle that obviously requires a lot of torque just to get moving. Can you help?

-Steve
 

GM Customer Service

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TXMaverick,

Hello Steve! I cannot guarantee anything but I would be happy to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me your contact information, VIN, current mileage, and preferred dealership if I can be of any assistance.

Regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care
 

FrankU

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TXMaverick,

Hello Steve! I cannot guarantee anything but I would be happy to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me your contact information, VIN, current mileage, and preferred dealership if I can be of any assistance.

Regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care


Now THAT'S what I call customer care ! Nice to have you aboard Jennifer :thumbsup:
 

GM Customer Service

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FrankU,

Thank you for the compliment! I am happy to be on the forum and ready at assist anyone who may have a general question or concern about any GM product.

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care
 

greyskyblue

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Same Problem - broken engine mount 2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV

Hello everyone - I have the same problem. A broken left engine mount in my 2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV. I had it fixed in November at a GM Dealer in my town for $740. At the time, my vehicle had only 106,000 miles.

To me, this is a structural issue. I've seen all over the internet of this same problem (broken engine or motor mount) in the Escalade/Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban vehicles. This is a design flaw.

I called GM's Customer Service, and at first they insisted that this problem is out of warranty, thus my problem not theirs. Then when I pointed out that it's not much out of warranty, they wanted to go try and take money back from the dealer for this fix. I find that a problem too. So many vehicles with engines not secured under the hood, this should have been taken care of by recall.

Oh, and did I mention that when one engine mount goes...usually the other does too? My quote to fix both was $1,800.

I'm very disappointed in GM. I know who I won't be looking at when I'm ready for a new ride.

- Gina
 

fiatdale

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This isn't a problem isolated to just GM. Used to work as a service tech on Mazdas, 9 out of 10 that came in with 70k miles all had cracked or leaking mounts. Friends at other dealerships have also said its problematic on many brands.
 

TXMaverick

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Issue resolved

Thanks Jennifer, I went ahead and just did it myself. Thank you though, it is appreciated.

For those of you with 2WD versions it's not real easy but it's doable by any basic backyard mechanic and you don't have to remove the inner fender well. The hardest part by far was the motor mount to frame bolts. GM used Loctite Red on those bolts so will will need a lot of leverage (and a universal joint adapter) to get those 3 out. The 4 engine-side bolts are easy. When you are lowering the engine down after mounting the new mount to the block you'll need to be underneath and, using a tool (NOT your fingers), help the locator pin get into position as you lower the engine back down. One other thing, if your vehicle uses an Anchor 3211 be sure and use the original locknuts off the old mount to attach the frame mount, not the crappy standard nuts Anchor choose for some stupid reason.


TXMaverick,

Hello Steve! I cannot guarantee anything but I would be happy to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me your contact information, VIN, current mileage, and preferred dealership if I can be of any assistance.

Regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care
 

TXMaverick

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Hello everyone - I have the same problem. A broken left engine mount in my 2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV. I had it fixed in November at a GM Dealer in my town for $740. At the time, my vehicle had only 106,000 miles.

To me, this is a structural issue. I've seen all over the internet of this same problem (broken engine or motor mount) in the Escalade/Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban vehicles. This is a design flaw.

I called GM's Customer Service, and at first they insisted that this problem is out of warranty, thus my problem not theirs. Then when I pointed out that it's not much out of warranty, they wanted to go try and take money back from the dealer for this fix. I find that a problem too. So many vehicles with engines not secured under the hood, this should have been taken care of by recall.

Oh, and did I mention that when one engine mount goes...usually the other does too? My quote to fix both was $1,800.

I'm very disappointed in GM. I know who I won't be looking at when I'm ready for a new ride.

- Gina


Gina,
It is not true that both mounts need to be replaced on small block GM motors if the left one breaks. Unlike Mazdas (which I also have) with their traverse mounted engines, the the left side small block GM motor mount takes 90+% of the elongation or tearing torque while the right side gets only compression torque which is not damaging (unless you drive in reverse all the time then it switches). Since I haven't heard of this issue in any of the non-truck vehicles it appears that these mounts are either being subjected to either too much torque (moving a big, heavy vehicle is ******* mounts) or too much radiant heat, or a combination of the two which is what I suspect is the real cause. Was it a case of a supplier material issue not meeting spec requirements or was it a design flaw, who knows? One thing is for sure, without knowing for sure that the elastomeric material in the replacement GM mounts has been redesigned I would not go back with another GM mount unless the dealer is willing to give you a lifetime warranty. My replacement Anchor mount does have a lifetime warranty, as does my labor; although, I am hoping to not have to exercise that clause. :hahano:
 

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