Brake issues after new front calipers

[jlee]

I hate doing brakes and generally leave it to those who know what they are doing, but decided to take on changing out front rotors, reman calipers, and pads on my own along with flushing. Long story short, it took me a while to get the brakes bled doing the 2 person method.

Right now, with the vehicle off, the pedal barely moves towards the floor with good pressure and it feels like I have everything bled good. But, once I start the engine, I feel like the pedal is softer than I remember it being before when running. It's driveable, and it stops good if you hit the pedal hard, and it's fine at a stop lights, but it just seems like it takes more pedal travel than I remember from before.

I'm worried I pushed pedal too far to the floor during bleeding being a rookie and not knowing better. I guess my question is does this sound like a damaged master cylinder as I was pumping to the floor? Or maybe I just need to do some additional bleeding and try the ABS bleed procedure while I'm at it? Or maybe this is closer to normal and I'm just looking at things too closely?

Truck is an 09 LTZ with 168k.

 

[camaroz2887]

As long as your sure you never let the MC run dry it should just be air trapped in line/abs. If it did ya need to bleed the MC.
Do you have the ability to run the abs bleeding procedure on a tester tech 2 or otherwise? I’d start there if you do for free/cheap.
That being said damage is possible like you described but removing and replacing an mc is more pita and $.

 

[Rocket Man]

You could buy a Motive pressure bleeder for about $60 and do a foolproof bleed of all 4 lines in a matter of minutes without a helper. You could always resell it afterwards if you didn’t want to keep it. I highly recommend it, works unbelievably good for bleeding.
Motive Products 0108 Brake System Power Bleeder For Most Late Model GM Cars and Trucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZvtKDbH45VH9M

 

[jlee]

As long as your sure you never let the MC run dry it should just be air trapped in line/abs. If it did ya need to bleed the MC.
Do you have the ability to run the abs bleeding procedure on a tester tech 2 or otherwise? I’d start there if you do for free/cheap.
That being said damage is possible like you described but removing and replacing an mc is more pita and $.

Kept fluid in it. I do have a tech 2 clone, just not familiar with the abs bleed procedure, so I haven't gone down that road yet.

 

[jlee]

You could buy a Motive pressure bleeder for about $60 and do a foolproof bleed of all 4 lines in a matter of minutes without a helper. You could always resell it afterwards if you didn’t want to keep it. I highly recommend it, works unbelievably good for bleeding.
Motive Products 0108 Brake System Power Bleeder For Most Late Model GM Cars and Trucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZvtKDbH45VH9M

I might give that a try. I never seem to have much luck with the suction approach at the caliper. This seems like a better approach.

 

[Rocket Man]

I might give that a try. I never seem to have much luck with the suction approach at the caliper. This seems like a better approach.

It’s way better, trust me. I tried the vacuum method and it sucks literally. With the Motive, you put fluid in the container and give it a few pumps, then just go unscrew the bleeders one by one and watch the fluid and or air bubbles flow out. It automatically keeps the master filled too. Super easy and effective.

 

[jlee]

Quick update, did some additional bleeding and braking has been perfect this week during commute. No more pulling to the right while braking and temps are even from side to side on front and rear.

 

[thompsoj22]

Kept fluid in it. I do have a tech 2 clone, just not familiar with the abs bleed procedure, so I haven't gone down that road yet.

I am also faced with the same reality of having a TECH2 and not knowing anything about how to use it! I have asked before but ill ask again for a "special section" specifically for TECH2 maint/troubleshooting with step by step input's to walk us through using the tool and to build proficiency within the forum and to realize the enormouse potential of the TECH2.

 

[Livebai8]

I'm in the middle of doing my front brakes on my Tahoe. My issue is 8 can't get the rotor to turn by hand after assembly unless I loosen the slide pins. Is this expected and then changes once the fluid line is reconnected and bled? I bought the a.c. Delco rotors and pads for my truck and replaced the calipers with duralast calipers foe the fronts due to a limited budget. I'm tackling the left side tomorrow. I literally had to disassemble the entire caliper and start with the bracket, get the pads on, then sit the caliper over the bracket, then put the slides in. I'm not gonna reconnect the line until both are installed. Was there an easier way ?

 

[Foggy]

I'm in the middle of doing my front brakes on my Tahoe. My issue is 8 can't get the rotor to turn by hand after assembly unless I loosen the slide pins. Is this expected and then changes once the fluid line is reconnected and bled? I bought the a.c. Delco rotors and pads for my truck and replaced the calipers with duralast calipers foe the fronts due to a limited budget. I'm tackling the left side tomorrow. I literally had to disassemble the entire caliper and start with the bracket, get the pads on, then sit the caliper over the bracket, then put the slides in. I'm not gonna reconnect the line until both are installed. Was there an easier way ?

You def have something binding.. You should be able to spin the rotor easily minus the
friction of the drive system- make sure you are in Neutral...
Maybe you have the wrong parts ???? but you have something wrong for sure