Big Three Replace Factory Grounds?

Dakcbeast

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I'm a big guy and the rear ground on the block is almost impossible to get to for me without taking everything apart.

If I do the Big Three upgrade will it do the same thing as replacing and cleaning that block ground?

Except for the little wire from firewall. I plan to cut that and run to ground mount like I've seen many do. I'm trying to eliminate electrical gremlins. I've read that the wire sometimes corrode from the inside out? Thanks!
 
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iamdub

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I'm a big guy and the rear ground on the block is almost impossible to get to for me without taking everything apart.

If I do the Big Three upgrade will it do the same thing as replacing and cleaning that block ground?

Except for the little wire from firewall. I plan to cut that and run to ground mount like I've seen many do. I'm trying to eliminate electrical gremlins. I've read that the wire sometimes corrode from the inside out? Thanks!

Location isn't what's important. What matters is that you have the larger wires connecting the key points.

1) You upgrade the ground from the battery to the frame. You can go anywhere on the frame, on either frame rail, but it is most ideal to keep it as short as possible.

2) You upgrade the positive from the alternator to the battery. This one is straightforward.

3) You upgrade the ground from the engine block to the frame. You can pick anywhere sensible on the block and on the frame. Left or right side doesn't matter.

You can leave all factory grounds where they are if you want to. The upgraded ones supersede them but if the factory ones are still sound, then they'll only help. This applies to the one on the body sheet metal. You can replace it or leave it and install an upgraded ground elsewhere if it's more convenient. You can run it from anywhere on the frame or engine block to anywhere on the body. Just aim to keep it as short as reasonably possible.

I left all my factory grounds in place and added my 1/0 where convenient, neat and reasonable.
 

Dakcbeast

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Location isn't what's important. What matters is that you have the larger wires connecting the key points.

1) You upgrade the ground from the battery to the frame. You can go anywhere on the frame, on either frame rail, but it is most ideal to keep it as short as possible.

2) You upgrade the positive from the alternator to the battery. This one is straightforward.

3) You upgrade the ground from the engine block to the frame. You can pick anywhere sensible on the block and on the frame. Left or right side doesn't matter.

You can leave all factory grounds where they are if you want to. The upgraded ones supersede them but if the factory ones are still sound, then they'll only help. This applies to the one on the body sheet metal. You can replace it or leave it and install an upgraded ground elsewhere if it's more convenient. You can run it from anywhere on the frame or engine block to anywhere on the body. Just aim to keep it as short as reasonably possible.

I left all my factory grounds in place and added my 1/0 where convenient, neat and reasonable.
Thank you! Earlier today I noticed that when I wiggled my battery wire just a bit that everything returned to normal. I tightened them both down with a ratchet and it did it twice on a drive but came back immediately when usually it took it ahwile.

I then came home and wire wheeled the connections at the battery and the ground in front frame under radiator. Drove it twice and nothing yet.

I got into the rear differential and that's how I spent the rest of my day along with aiming the headlights correctly.

Hopefully tomorrow is my day!! Even if it doesn't act up, I'm going to do the Big Three to help and for further sound system, lighting etc..
If I'm reading correctly this should solve all but the small ECM ground wire.

I'll repost back tomorrow.

Thanks all!!
 

Dakcbeast

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Gauge still working. Abs/brake light flashes on and off occasionally. Codes read... EBCM and Rear wheel sensor erratic. Hopefully, my cluster gremlins are gone. AC actuator issue fixed as well today. Big Three tomorrow. Still need to get wire, terminals and crimp. Thanks!
 
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iamdub

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Thank you! Earlier today I noticed that when I wiggled my battery wire just a bit that everything returned to normal. I tightened them both down with a ratchet and it did it twice on a drive but came back immediately when usually it took it ahwile.

I then came home and wire wheeled the connections at the battery and the ground in front frame under radiator. Drove it twice and nothing yet.

I got into the rear differential and that's how I spent the rest of my day along with aiming the headlights correctly.

Hopefully tomorrow is my day!! Even if it doesn't act up, I'm going to do the Big Three to help and for further sound system, lighting etc..
If I'm reading correctly this should solve all but the small ECM ground wire.

I'll repost back tomorrow.

Thanks all!!

Unless it's the actual ground for the ECM where it connects to the body, the Big 3 (or 'Four or 'Five) would solve any grounding ailments. If you still have gremlins, they should be localized, and might be the components themselves or other circuits feeding them. The ground is only half of the circuit.
 

iamdub

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Gauge still working. Abs/brake light flashes on and off occasionally. Codes read... EBCM and Rear wheel sensor erratic. Hopefully, my cluster gremlins are gone. AC actuator issue fixed as well today. Big Three tomorrow. Still need to get wire, terminals and crimp. Thanks!

That could be the sensor itself and/or any of the local circuits to the EBCM. At least you have something narrowing it down!
 

Dakcbeast

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Unless it's the actual ground for the ECM where it connects to the body, the Big 3 (or 'Four or 'Five) would solve any grounding ailments. If you still have gremlins, they should be localized, and might be the components themselves or other circuits feeding them. The ground is only half of the circuit.
Exactly what I was thinking. I should only have that ECM wire or the modules themselves to worry about after Big Three. I accidentally measured from alternator to negative terminal instead of positive, so I had to get another for positive. Is that the Big Four if I connect it? Thanks for the help!
 

Dakcbeast

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That could be the sensor itself and/or any of the local circuits to the EBCM. At least you have something narrowing it down!
Yep! The codes were cleared and no abs/brake yet. Probably that rear sensor and the EBCM was from the grounding/power issue or at worst a new EBCM.

Next up! Highs/Mids/Subs!!
 

Dakcbeast

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Big Three installed and on tht way back from a drive.. Cluster Gremlins. Flash and back, but still. Since everything else is grounded, I must be dealing with a battery wire/connection issue?
 

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