Battery Replacement: What is required?

[2014 Tahoe LTZ]

Greetings, fellow Tahoe and Yukon lovers! I recently became the owner of a low mileage 2014 LTZ. So far, I love everything except the 14-15 miles per gallon. Which of course is expected on a vehicle of this size, weight, and power. Battery is cranking slow, so it's time for replacement. Current occupant of the tray is a Walmart EverStart Maxx with a date sticker of 12/18. That's impressive, so I would like to replace with the same. If you have a better choice, I'm all ears!

Is this a do-it-yourself job for those like me with only basic mechanical skills? Or do I need to take it to a shop? I've watched several YouTube videos. The actual removal/installation looks simple enough. Fortunately, this is NOT one of the later models where you have to remove the fuse block that sits on top of the battery. However, I've been hearing horror stories regarding electrical issues developing when the power is disconnected. Modules failing, radios becoming "locked" due to anti-theft technology, etc. Some say "use a memory saver to prevent these problems." Others say "Don't ever use a memory saver because it will overload the OBD port with incoming voltage." What is the proper procedure here? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[intheburbs]

It's as simple as it gets. Biggest challenge is getting the batteries in and out because of their weight.

1) Disconnect battery cables (negative first). 10mm
2) Remove battery hold down - 13mm - at bottom of battery on engine side.
3) Remove battery

Installation is the reverse.

You might have to unbolt the curved fender support bracket or bar behind the battery. They should be 13mm, too.

I've never had any issues of electronics getting messed up. I've disconnected the batteries on my 2 trucks more times than I can count.

 

[GMCChevy]

If anything a lot of newer vehicles seem to get a bit glitchy when the battery gets old and weak because they're more picky about voltage drop but don't have problems actually being disconnected.

I went out to my Tahoe the other day only to find the battery dead. I haven't charged and tested it yet but I'm expecting to replace it and it'll be an Everstart. For the most part that's all I've been buying (it's not what's in it now).

 

[PPV_2018]

Removal : negative OFF first then positive..
Installation: positive ON first then negative..

It’s really easy. This is not a dealer job unless you hate having money in your bank account. Make sure terminals don’t make contact with other metal(s) during this process.

it’s more of an issue taking these heavy *** batteries out of these crammed up engine bays than anything else.

 

[Doubeleive]

Greetings, fellow Tahoe and Yukon lovers! I recently became the owner of a low mileage 2014 LTZ. So far, I love everything except the 14-15 miles per gallon. Which of course is expected on a vehicle of this size, weight, and power. Battery is cranking slow, so it's time for replacement. Current occupant of the tray is a Walmart EverStart Maxx with a date sticker of 12/18. That's impressive, so I would like to replace with the same. If you have a better choice, I'm all ears!

Is this a do-it-yourself job for those like me with only basic mechanical skills? Or do I need to take it to a shop? I've watched several YouTube videos. The actual removal/installation looks simple enough. Fortunately, this is NOT one of the later models where you have to remove the fuse block that sits on top of the battery. However, I've been hearing horror stories regarding electrical issues developing when the power is disconnected. Modules failing, radios becoming "locked" due to anti-theft technology, etc. Some say "use a memory saver to prevent these problems." Others say "Don't ever use a memory saver because it will overload the OBD port with incoming voltage." What is the proper procedure here? Thanks in advance for your help.

you won't have any issue's unless you are sitting there fumbling the cables back on and off, when you go to put the negative back on just stick it on there and tighten it up.
done. the only thing that will happen is the clock will need to be reset and if your hvac is the electronic one then it will default to "73" & auto. other than that the obdii monitors will also be reset not a big deal unless you are going to try and get it smogged in the next couple days otherwise just drive it and they will set on there own over a few days. the ambient temp sensor will sometimes be incorrect also but just drive it about 5 miles and it will self correct, if the compass say's "cal" that is short for calibrate in which case just drive in a circle under the open sky a couple times and that will do it.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[mike singleton]

Greetings, fellow Tahoe and Yukon lovers! I recently became the owner of a low mileage 2014 LTZ. So far, I love everything except the 14-15 miles per gallon. Which of course is expected on a vehicle of this size, weight, and power. Battery is cranking slow, so it's time for replacement. Current occupant of the tray is a Walmart EverStart Maxx with a date sticker of 12/18. That's impressive, so I would like to replace with the same. If you have a better choice, I'm all ears!

Is this a do-it-yourself job for those like me with only basic mechanical skills? Or do I need to take it to a shop? I've watched several YouTube videos. The actual removal/installation looks simple enough. Fortunately, this is NOT one of the later models where you have to remove the fuse block that sits on top of the battery. However, I've been hearing horror stories regarding electrical issues developing when the power is disconnected. Modules failing, radios becoming "locked" due to anti-theft technology, etc. Some say "use a memory saver to prevent these problems." Others say "Don't ever use a memory saver because it will overload the OBD port with incoming voltage." What is the proper procedure here? Thanks in advance for your help.

I know that this is not exactly on topic, but with the newer GM products the "Gel" AGM batteries are the only way to go. IMO.

 

[t_bergman]

You might have to unbolt the curved fender support bracket or bar behind the battery. They should be 13mm, too.

I've never been able to replace a battery without removing the fender support; battery size for the 2013 Yukon should be a 48 however double check as I have a 2500.

I've always run Duralast Platinum AGM batteries; I suppose you could go for a Yellotop if you wanted.

Make sure you grab a battery from the back of the shelf which has a newer build date; if it's not too cold you can do it in the parking lot and avoid the trip back to drop off the old battery for the core charge.

 

[hillstrubl]

I've seen conflicting info on what the "factory" size is. Mine had a group 48 in it when I bought it, I replaced it with a slightly larger 94R, but had to loosen the radiator overflow tank to get it in there. It was tight, but did fit. thread here -> https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/battery-size.131190/page-2#post-1916887

 

[the 18th letter]

Watch a YouTube video. There’s a specific way (angles etc.) that these batteries come out, otherwise it will seem like you have to break or take stuff apart when it’s pretty simple once you see the angles. Ask me how I know lol

 

[2014 Tahoe LTZ]

UPDATE: I just wanted to thank everyone for their quick and accurate advice. A recent cold snap killed off what was left in my 6-year-old battery. No start. Multimeter showed just over 9 volts. Put it on the charger, but it wouldn't charge past 10.5. Heard bubbling noise from the battery. Likely dead cell. So, off to Walmart for a replacement (another EverStart Maxx.)

Removal/installation took me about half an hour, and that's taking time to clean and dust everything off. As some of you mentioned, the toughest part was lifting that 45 pound battery up and getting it in the tight space while keeping the cables out of the way. After watching a few YouTube videos, I caught the trick of tipping the right end up slightly to get it to clear the "lip" on the firewall while sliding it in to where it clears the coolant recovery tank. Indeed, a bit more challenging than most, but not too tough. NO issues with theft locked stereos, dash lights, warning messages, etc. Hooray! Just to be sure, I called the dealer where it was purchased new and asked. The service tech confirmed the 2014s are "clean" as far as electronics problems are concerned. He said I may need to reset my windows, but even those seem to be fine.

The new battery has a slightly different appearance than the old one. It has the same case as the EverStart Platinum (AGM) with the dual handles. Also, "MADE IN KOREA" is stamped into the case vs "MADE IN MEXICO" on the old one. Are they still made by Johnson Controls/Clarios, or does this one have a different manufacturer? It appears the switchover happened last month. There was an 11/24 in the rack with the old case and a 12/24 with the new one. Of course, I grabbed a 1/25 which, according to the Walmart employee, just arrived from the warehouse on the previous day. My multimeter showed 13.03 volts off the shelf, so he's a healthy boy. The 'ol Tahoe starts REAL quick now!