Battery died the other day…won’t run now..Solved

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redwing4900

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I left the lights on the other day and my older battery died on me. After I changed it, my 98 Yukon 5.7 won’t run for more than 5 seconds after sputtering. I haven’t had my fuel gauge working for the three years I have owned it so I figured the fuel pump went after i Did some research on that symptom, but no change I also replaced the fuel lines. Is this a relearn situation? I have heard that you leave the key on for 15 minutes or is it 30? I am getting no fault codes and now wondering what part might fix this? IAC valve crank position sensor Ignition coil? Or will the relearn do the job? I did 2 of them today at 15 minutes each No change. I replaced the spider 2 years ago. It was quite a disappointment when it stalled I was pretty sure the fuel pump was the culprit. Any suggestions? 198,000 miles looking for more
thank you
 

east302

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With the ignition in run (one click before starting it) does the “Security” light come on and then go off within a few seconds?

Edit: since it’s a quick check, start at step 3 below if the light is staying on:

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RED TAHOE LS

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I left the lights on the other day and my older battery died on me. After I changed it, my 98 Yukon 5.7 won’t run for more than 5 seconds after sputtering. I haven’t had my fuel gauge working for the three years I have owned it so I figured the fuel pump went after i Did some research on that symptom, but no change I also replaced the fuel lines. Is this a relearn situation? I have heard that you leave the key on for 15 minutes or is it 30? I am getting no fault codes and now wondering what part might fix this? IAC valve crank position sensor Ignition coil? Or will the relearn do the job? I did 2 of them today at 15 minutes each No change. I replaced the spider 2 years ago. It was quite a disappointment when it stalled I was pretty sure the fuel pump was the culprit. Any suggestions? 198,000 miles looking for more
thank you
You're description is all over the place, is it out of gas ??? the fuel pump must be submerged in fuel too work, was it running prior to leaving the lights ? It will not run without fuel PRESSURE. Take a step backwards and start with the fuel pump, don't forget the inline fuel filter on the right side frame rail. JMHO and good luck.
 

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redwing4900

redwing4900

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Thank you for your responses. It’s hard to include everything in a logical order so I’ll just continue to shotgun here: truck was running great up until the battery died yes had fuel I sucked out 12 gallons changed the pump, put 10 back in also changed fuel filter and fuel pump relay. There are so many people with this issue, but few are solved or at least few are resolved in online forums (I hope to change that). The security light does go out after a couple seconds so I guess the relearn Is N/A, I didnt have an issue with it before. Keyless entry works with the fob no problem.
 

TollKeeper

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Start with the 3 rules for an engine to run

It needs fuel, air, spark. Is there fuel pressure? Is there spark?

No security light does not necessarily mean the security system is right with the world. Would not hurt to do a security relearn.
 
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redwing4900

redwing4900

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Very frustrating…changed iac valve. No help. On the dash it’s indicating 11 volts when I check the battery, alternator, etc I have 14.5V. Anything to that? How would I check for spark on this? I have a timing light, would I check it by seeing if the light is pulsing When hooked up to a wire, answered my own question: I’ll try it. It runs for maybe 5 seconds then dies, but fires right up Initially. Doing a relearn now, then I’ll check for spark
 

east302

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It sounds like a Passlock issue to me. I let my battery die a while back (hardly drove the truck) and tried starting it a few times, killed the battery. I don’t recall if the security light was on or not, but remember it finally restarted after a relearn.

The Passlock won’t trip the check engine light, but will set a code if your scanner can get to it. It wasn’t with the normal P#### engine codes but I don’t remember how I found it (tech2 scanner).


If it starts and runs (even briefly, compared to a cranks but won’t start) then it’s getting fuel, spark and air. Something is just interrupting one or more of those…Passlock being a typical culprit. Hopefully the three-time relearn process will set it right. The procedure does mention clearing any Passlock codes first, so if you can read them then I’d try clearing them.

If a relearn just doesn’t do the trick and no Passlock codes are stored, then I’d verify spark on all eight (distributor caps being an issue sometimes) and check the fuel pressure. Spec is 60-66 psi, key on engine off.
 
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redwing4900

redwing4900

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Ok thank you I also have an old after market code alarm that I can’t quite figure out how to eliminate. That might be the whole problem. it has a pass key bypass module
 
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redwing4900

redwing4900

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Code alarm is still getting power I didnt get ride of it before. the key I have doesn’t have any resistors in it just a flat key
 
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