Ball joints

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MP513

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Hey guys, I have a 2013 Yukon xl Denali that I need to replace the lower ball joints. My question is how do I figure out if I have aluminum, cast iron, or stamped steel control arms. Just trying to figure out the correct ball joints to buy. Also any recommendations on ball joint brands

thanks
 

swathdiver

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Hey guys, I have a 2013 Yukon xl Denali that I need to replace the lower ball joints. My question is how do I figure out if I have aluminum, cast iron, or stamped steel control arms. Just trying to figure out the correct ball joints to buy. Also any recommendations on ball joint brands

thanks
Well, if a magnet does not stick to them you can rule out aluminum. It's very likely that they are cast iron. To be sure, give the last 8 of your VIN to Rene, @915_Tahoe .

If they are cast iron, the GM OE ball joints are 19209396 and the ACDelco Professional line is 45D2272.

The lower arms complete are 20869201 and 20869202. If your lower joints are bad, your uppers are very likely to be worn out too. These are not replaceable, you have to change out the whole arm. 25812725 and 25812726 are the GM OE numbers.

My research indicates that the GM OE arms last about 150-160K miles. The ACDelco Professional and Moog CK Series last about 80-100K miles. Some say less.


 

Fless

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Well, if a magnet does not stick to them you can rule out aluminum. It's very likely that they are cast iron. To be sure, give the last 8 of your VIN to Rene, @915_Tahoe .

If they are cast iron, the GM OE ball joints are 19209396 and the ACDelco Professional line is 45D2272.

The lower arms complete are 20869201 and 20869202. If your lower joints are bad, your uppers are very likely to be worn out too. These are not replaceable, you have to change out the whole arm. 25812725 and 25812726 are the GM OE numbers.

My research indicates that the GM OE arms last about 150-160K miles. The ACDelco Professional and Moog CK Series last about 80-100K miles. Some say less.



I think you mean if a magnet STICKS to them you can rule out aluminum.

EDIT: wonder why ball joint isn't censored. Clearly a s-e-x-u-a-l and drug reference.
 

swathdiver

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I think you mean if a magnet STICKS to them you can rule out aluminum.

EDIT: wonder why ball joint isn't censored. Clearly a s-e-x-u-a-l and drug reference.
If this list were in effect in a muzzleloading forum, all you would see are stars or blanks! LOL

Then again, can we mention the blown tranny videos over at Precision Transmission on youtube?
 
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MP513

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Ok yeah they are definitely not aluminum. A magnet does stick to them. Thanks for the part numbers. It’s like looking for AR parts there’s a million different ball joints and control arms for my model.
 

swathdiver

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Ok yeah they are definitely not aluminum. A magnet does stick to them. Thanks for the part numbers. It’s like looking for AR parts there’s a million different ball joints and control arms for my model.
Well, they all get listed for our models but RWD models get different ones as did the PPV and SSV and XFE had their own sets and early on some of ours used aluminum too. As time goes, there's a trimming down of part numbers. Rock Auto usually has the best prices and if you look on here, there's a 5% OFF coupon code somewhere.

We just did our uppers and lowers, the whole arms concluding for us, that it was too much work to just change out the ball joints and the control arm bushings would not have lasted more than a year or two before needing replacement so now she's good for another 150k or so.
 

91RS

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Just replace the control arms with new GM arms (GM OE, NOT AC/Delco or Moog/whatever). The upper ball joints are only serviced as a whole control arm anyway but the bushings also wear out even if they don't look like it. I've replaced all 8 control arms and the panhard bar on both of my trucks and it made a massive difference.
 

Joseph Garcia

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I'll be changing out both the upper and lower control arms on my truck in the next 30 days. One ball joint is going bad, so it makes sense to replace them all.
 

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