Autoride Issue

[jmazur]

Hello,

I have a 2008 tahoe ltz. Recently the "service suspension" message is showing up on the dic. I'm thinking it's coming from the rear. Height sensors are fine. Front struts are already replaced with correct resistors on front. I do not have a tech 2 scanner to check this code. The rear connections to the shocks are fine. I was inspecting the rear shocks and found a hole in the rubber on the boot of the shock. Is it safe to say it's probably the rear shocks that are causing my message? Is it worth it to have the dealer run the code? Thanks

 

[kbuskill]

Hello,

I have a 2008 tahoe ltz. Recently the "service suspension" message is showing up on the dic. I'm thinking it's coming from the rear. Height sensors are fine. Front struts are already replaced with correct resistors on front. I do not have a tech 2 scanner to check this code. The rear connections to the shocks are fine. I was inspecting the rear shocks and found a hole in the rubber on the boot of the shock. Is it safe to say it's probably the rear shocks that are causing my message? Is it worth it to have the dealer run the code? Thanks

Rear shock bladders are definitely blown.

Can you still hear your compressor turn on?
It is on the drivers side rear behind the rear wheel well.

If you still hear the compressor turn on and run then you should pull the ALC fuse or the relay under the master cylinder to cut power to the compressor because if you don't the compressor will keep trying to fill the blown shocks and will eventually burn up the compressor.

If you don't hear the compressor turning on and running then the compressor is likely already burnt up, which is most likely why you are getting the service suspension warning on your dash.

 

[wjburken]

Hello,

I have a 2008 tahoe ltz. Recently the "service suspension" message is showing up on the dic. I'm thinking it's coming from the rear. Height sensors are fine. Front struts are already replaced with correct resistors on front. I do not have a tech 2 scanner to check this code. The rear connections to the shocks are fine. I was inspecting the rear shocks and found a hole in the rubber on the boot of the shock. Is it safe to say it's probably the rear shocks that are causing my message? Is it worth it to have the dealer run the code? Thanks

Yeah, you need some new shocks. Arnott 2700’s is what I put on mine. Also went with the Arnott compressor.

 

[jmazur]

I cant hear the compressor. If I put these on the rear would it get rid of the message?
https://www.suncoreindustries.com/p...-kit-escalade-avalanche-yukon-tahoe#questions

 

[kbuskill]

I cant hear the compressor. If I put these on the rear would it get rid of the message?
https://www.suncoreindustries.com/p...-kit-escalade-avalanche-yukon-tahoe#questions

It should, but you will probably have to pull the fuse for the compressor and maybe disconnect the battery for a few mins to reset everything.

 

[jmazur]

Ok thank you I may try it. Is there anything else I need to do to disconnect the compressor? Just replace the shocks and pull the fuse?

 

[kbuskill]

Ok thank you I may try it. Is there anything else I need to do to disconnect the compressor? Just replace the shocks and pull the fuse?

That should be it.

 

[jmazur]

Ok thank you. I am also looking into this kit. Includes bypass resistors and new compressor. Would be 200 after core return. The other option is 75 with core return but will loose the air altogether
https://www.suncoreindustries.com/p...sion-kit-07-14-escalade-avalanche-tahoe-yukon

 

[avalonandl]

Your compressor is probably shot. Mine was, in a 2012. Shocks are on Rock Auto. I found out I had a bad bladder when the brakes were changed- on the lift and suspension extended.

 

[iamdub]

There are two separate systems involved that could be the cause for the message: The Automatic Level Control (ALC) and AutoRide. Judging by the blown bladders and you not hearing the compressor, I'd say your compressor has been running way too much trying to fill the bladders and either just popped the fuse or is locked up (which would also pop the fuse). Removing the fuses for the Automatic Level Control (ALC) and disconnecting the battery for a little while to reset the suspension computer would essentially remove it from the system and would probably clear your warning message. The AutoRide part of the shock is probably still functional, although the shock is likely worn if it has anywhere north of 75K miles on it. When these shocks wear, they get soft just like any standard shock would. But, being that their damping is adjusted electronically by the computer, it over-compensates for the softness and they tend to do the opposite of a standard shock and ride really firm when they're worn. If you're ok with the way it rides and don't need the ALC, just "delete" the ALC and keep going. I'd advise against using the resistors to spoof the AutoRide system but keeping the original AutoRide shocks. Disconnecting the wiring from the worn AutoRide shock removes that electronic damping so it becomes like a standard, worn-out and dangerously soft shock. I disconnected mine as a test and only went about a mile before plugging them back in. It rode cushy, but any slight turn of the wheel made it feel very top-heavy like it could easily get out of control leading to an over-correcting and possible rollover.