Auto Air Level vs Bilstein

[browngb87]

I've got a 2012 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD. It has the auto level on the rear. It has quit working. I am debating fixing the auto air level or converting to Bilstein. From what I have read it seems that there should be an idiot light on indicating that my air level has failed.

So what's the general consensus fix air level or swap to Bilstein. If I swap to Bilstein do I have to do the resistors to keep from having an idiot light come on?

Thanks for any help!

 

[wjburken]

I've got a 2012 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD. It has the auto level on the rear. It has quit working. I am debating fixing the auto air level or converting to Bilstein. From what I have read it seems that there should be an idiot light on indicating that my air level has failed.

So what's the general consensus fix air level or swap to Bilstein. If I swap to Bilstein do I have to do the resistors to keep from having an idiot light come on?

Thanks for any help!

You may already know this, but others reading this may not. You actually have two suspension systems at play here. You have the AutoLevel that pumps up the air bags to level you vehicle and you have AutoRide that adjusts the dampening of the shock based on road conditions.

I have not typically gotten a Service Suspension working for a failed air compressor or airbag.

My personal recommendation is to get some Arnott AS-2700's (Arnott New) or AS-2708's (Arnott Reman'd from OEM). I have had great luck with both of these. They both are plug-n-play with the AutoRide system and will not throw codes. You just need to make sure that you double check the wheel speed sensor cable connections after swapping out the shocks as the top bolts are near them and they have a tendency to get bumped and separate. Arnott even puts a warning about this in their installation instructions.

I would also look at a new compressor. I have used Arnott and Dormann compressors with no complaints.

The AutoLevel is definitely worth maintaining from my seat on the bus. All in, last I looked you're looking at $500-$600 and about 1 hour of your time to swap the parts out.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I have not used Bilsteins, but when I purchased my rig, the auto air level system had been torn out and replaced with standard struts in front and coil over shocks in the rear. All 4 wheels had resistors connected to the electrical wires (absolutely needed to avoid the dashboard warning light). I replaced these struts/shocks with OEM air/electric struts/shocks, back to the original Z55 suspension configuration, and the ride was much improved.

Folks here have done it both ways and have specific opinions, and they will provide their opinions and reasons why.

 

[iamdub]

^^^What these guys said.

If you decide you wanna delete these systems in favor of standard shocks, you'll need to disconnect the negative battery cable, pull a couple fuses then reinstall the negative battery cable to "delete" the Auto Level Control. For the Autoride, you'll need to install some resistors. They're about $12 for a 5-pack on Amazon. At least, they were back when I bought mine. You'll just need four.

 

[Geotrash]

I've got a 2012 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD. It has the auto level on the rear. It has quit working. I am debating fixing the auto air level or converting to Bilstein. From what I have read it seems that there should be an idiot light on indicating that my air level has failed.

So what's the general consensus fix air level or swap to Bilstein. If I swap to Bilstein do I have to do the resistors to keep from having an idiot light come on?

Thanks for any help!

The factory system is super easy to work on. I've replaced the rear air shocks on both of my rigs with OEM from Rock Auto ($250 each) in the past 2 years, and replaced the compressor on the 2007 with a Dorman. Works and rides like new. It's probably more hassle to delete the factory system than fix it, only to end up with a worse ride.

 

[wjburken]

The factory system is super easy to work on. I've replaced the rear air shocks on both of my rigs with OEM from Rock Auto ($250 each) in the past 2 years, and replaced the compressor on the 2007 with a Dorman. Works and rides like new. It's probably more hassle to delete the factory system than fix it, only to end up with a worse ride.

^^^^^Truth^^^^^

 

[iamdub]

The factory system is super easy to work on. I've replaced the rear air shocks on both of my rigs with OEM from Rock Auto ($250 each) in the past 2 years, and replaced the compressor on the 2007 with a Dorman. Works and rides like new. It's probably more hassle to delete the factory system than fix it, only to end up with a worse ride.

Yup. If I weren't lowering mine, I would've went with new OEM stuff.