For starters cranking torsion 1-2" is pushing them and this changes the angle of the spindle. The alignment corrects this SOME but simply put the geometry if the upper A arm causes a greater angle of the wheel with travel. Now your jeep was a solid axel up front I am going to assume wrangler or Cherokee. So this is a horizontal it travels differently geometrically than a IFS (independent front suspension) Tahoe and 99% of the newer gm trucks. Now with this said to help your handling couple things. One you could have play in front suspension due to wear over time. What are your miles?
Does the truck feel like the wheels are hoping?
Does the front end walk back and forth?
Does it pull one direction?
Does it shake like a hookers butt
Does the entire truck vibrate.
Your statement of "handles bad" is not detailed enought for me. This could be as simple as a bad bushing or a ball joint. With more details ill help you figure it out.
Miles are about 125K but all the ball joints have good boots with no tears, always greased and no slack when given the grab and shake test with the truck in the air. This being said, I would say the truck has no signs of bad ball joints. The pitman arm and idler arm do have signs of wear, but VERY minimal. The play is not bad at all...id say on a scale of 1-10 its barely close to 1. When the truck is in the air and you turn the steering wheel, the wheels move right away. The slack is barely visible at all.
No "deathwobble" or shakiness at all. The truck does not pull hard to one side. If you let go of the wheel it will travel straight for the most part but might drift over 1' over the course of 5-10 seconds. No vibrations or anything out of the ordinary.
When I Say it handles poorly, I mean it is scary that when you barely turn the wheel a half an inch the truck darts that way very aggressively. It doesn't yank the wheel out of your hand, but it does not slowly move over. For example if I try to switch lanes at highway speeds, a very slow lane change, it will dart over. I have to have 2 hands on the wheel at all times because once it darts, you better be ready. Additionally, when it darts one way and you try to correct it, it darts the opposite direction just as fast.
Before the spindles with the keys slightly cranked the truck was straight as an arrow and had very sturdy and stable handling. Spindles and crank have only been done for about 3 weeks now.
It's likely because your caster is off (Too little). Think about a chopper (huge amounts of caster) vs a sportbike (minimal caster). Which one is more sensitive to small steering inputs?
Does your steering wheel return to neutral/straight if you come out of a curve and let go? Or does it want to continue turning or even dive into the turn?
Do the NBS trucks have knockouts that you have to remove to be able to adjust caster? Supposedly the OBS ones do but I have no experience with that.
Steering wheel does return to center when you let go but when you first initiate the turn, it definitely dives hard. Here is the spec sheet from the alignment shop.
LEFT
Actual Specified Range
0.1*________ -0.3* ________ 0.8*_______CAMBER
3.1*________ 2.9* ________4.9* _______CASTER
0.14*_______-0.05* ________0.15*_______TOE
RIGHT
Actual Specified Range
0.0*_________-0.3*_________0.8*_______CAMBER
4.2*__________3.7*_________5.7*_______CASTER
0.00*________-0.05*________0.15*______TOE
FRONT
Actual Specified Range
0.1*_________-0.5*_________0.5*_______CROSS CAMBER
-1.1*________-1.3*_________-0.3*______CROSS CASTER
0.14*________-0.10*________0.30*______TOTAL TOE
