Yeah, I'm trying to avoid killing the engine to keep the lights on as I scan
ABS/ Brake light Question
- Thread starter Blk00ss
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Like has been said, I would not be afraid to have engine running when connected.
Walchit
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I had a bad wire on one of my wheel speed sensors. If your scanner will let you view live wheel speed data you could rule that out. Mine ended up being the module too though after I got the wheel speed sensor working. Mine will work until I hit a bump then the MILs come back on.
a bad abs sensor will not cause the brake light & abs light to come on at the same time.
Update...son got home and informed me the lights haven't come on at all today. As most of you know, I replaced the caliper yesterday and I also cleaned the connections going into the ABS module. No light at all today...maybe I fixed it.
But I decided to try out my new scanner anyways and wanted to check for stored codes. I CANNOT for the life of me figure out how to view ABS codes. I don't even have an ABS option on the menu screen like the picture as well as the directions say I should per the manual. I've clicked every option available on the menu screen hoping to find another menu with "ABS" on it. But nothing. I got the ZR8s which says it does ABS. And like I said, the manual says so as well.
But I decided to try out my new scanner anyways and wanted to check for stored codes. I CANNOT for the life of me figure out how to view ABS codes. I don't even have an ABS option on the menu screen like the picture as well as the directions say I should per the manual. I've clicked every option available on the menu screen hoping to find another menu with "ABS" on it. But nothing. I got the ZR8s which says it does ABS. And like I said, the manual says so as well.
another update. I'm so frustrated. So I go hook it back up and while I'm sitting there without the engine running, boom ABS/ Brake lught comes on. And its looking like ABS scan is not an option with this scanner, for this vehicle. So what now? Go buy a more expsnive scanner and try it? How do I know a more expensive one will work with GM ABS?
According to my Google those both look to be caused by poor soldering in the EBCM like others here have suggested. If I were you, I’d look into getting a reman unit that’s already been resoldered if you’re not comfortable with doing it. And watch the videos on removing the unit, the part about clearing the dirt out if the torx screws is important. You don’t want to strip one of those.
Edit: just Google GM DTC C0265 and C0287.
Thanks. I'll have to see if our truck has the active brake control. Those with it seem to be pretty pricey.
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Thanks everyone for your help. Especially the recommendation of a scanner. I feel like it already paid for itself and I plan to use it as needed with all our vehicles.
Looks like we don't have code JL4, so I guess no active brake control. I can get a Cardone reman for under $200 after core. I may do that
I'm not the best solderer (is that a word) there is. I may give it a go and see. I'm really hoping I can get to the screws. We're in OK, and I wash under our vehicles often (I'm kind of OCD). I'm hopeful the screws aren't corroded and don't have lots of dirt packed into the heads. Does anyone know what size torx bit these screws are? And any tips other than the dirt on the screw heads?
Looks like we don't have code JL4, so I guess no active brake control. I can get a Cardone reman for under $200 after core. I may do that
I'm not the best solderer (is that a word) there is. I may give it a go and see. I'm really hoping I can get to the screws. We're in OK, and I wash under our vehicles often (I'm kind of OCD). I'm hopeful the screws aren't corroded and don't have lots of dirt packed into the heads. Does anyone know what size torx bit these screws are? And any tips other than the dirt on the screw heads?
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