500 miles, = 1 qt oil

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the blur

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2014 figured this wasn't a problem. But apparently I have stuck oil rings. Every week, qt of oil. Blows smoke out the exhaust at 4000 RPM's.
How difficult is the top end cleaner job on the passenger side, 2 rear plugs. The others look easy.

120,000 miles...
 

donjetman

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Maybe try restore and protect made by Valvoline...
VRP is a good cleaning oil, but takes several full oil change intervals to clean things up.

For immediate unsticking of the piston rings do a piston & combustion chamber soak:
drain the oil and leave the plug out. I took all the sparkies out, squirted Motor Medic engine flush by Gunk(AutoZone) in the plug holes, You can get a turkey baster or large syringe(tractor supply) and let it soak in the combustion chambers for hrs, then put a socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, then wiggled it back and forth, then repeat. I did this several times over a whole weekend. Anything that gets by the rings will drain out.

Before putting the sparkies back in, I spun the engine over a lot with the starter to get it all the Motor Medic out of the combustion chambers.

Re-fill with oil. Drive it for 500 miles. Then do an oil and filter change with the best $$ can buy, and hopefully you'll have great results like me.
 
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the blur

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I have been using Pennzoil ultra syn natural gas 5w-30 for ever. Might be time to move away, but seeming this is such a common problem... I can't really blame the oil. I did order the VRP from amazon. definitely worth a try before the top engine cleaner job.
 

swathdiver

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I have been using Pennzoil ultra syn natural gas 5w-30 for ever. Might be time to move away, but seeming this is such a common problem... I can't really blame the oil. I did order the VRP from amazon. definitely worth a try before the top engine cleaner job.
I looked that oil up and it ain't Dexos1 Gen 2 certified. That's the kind of oil GM spec'd to run in your motor and you chose something else.


This is what you want if you wish to stick with Pennzoil:


This is what GM currently specs for your LS engines:


Compare the stats, the ASTM stats, and see how yours match up or don't.
 

B-train

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VRP is a good cleaning oil, but takes several full oil change intervals to clean things up.

For immediate unsticking of the piston rings do a piston & combustion chamber soak:
drain the oil and leave the plug out. I took all the sparkies out, squirted Motor Medic engine flush by Gunk(AutoZone) in the plug holes, You can get a turkey baster or large syringe(tractor supply) and let it soak in the combustion chambers for hrs, then put a socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, then wiggled it back and forth, then repeat. I did this several times over a whole weekend. Anything that gets by the rings will drain out.

Before putting the sparkies back in, I spun the engine over a lot with the starter to get it all the Motor Medic out of the combustion chambers.

Re-fill with oil. Drive it for 500 miles. Then do an oil and filter change with the best $$ can buy, and hopefully you'll have great results like me.
One thing to add......remember to unplug the harness on each valve cover to disable the fuel injectors/coils. I did something similar with GM top engine cleaner. Went to spin it over and blow the gunk out and promptly started the engine bay on fire......Let me tell you, pig mats and the sound deadening on the hood AREN'T flame resistant. LOL.

If I had been working on it outside, I may have let it burn (problem child 2009 Denali). But, being in my shop I grabbed the 5 gallon dog water bucket and gave it a splash.
 

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