- Jun 23, 2022
- Reaction score
I went from 3.73 to 4.11 when I swapped out the 10 bolt rear for a 14 bolt in my 1999 Suburban. The extra low end power was well felt.
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Lots of companies make them, but I don't have experience with any of the big companies. I have a guy local who does all my converters for me however I want them.What kind of stall converter would be good?... It has a stock converter. I don't plan on boost, I want to make as much power as possible N/A.
That depends on how deep your pockets are and how far you want to go. With the mods you listed you're going to see decent gains. Texas speed has a dyno chart on their listing of that cam with 400 lb/ft at peak. That is certainly measured at the crank, and with headers and no accessories for sure. You will probably see 300 lb/ft at the ground with that combo if I had to guess.Well what's the most torque you've seen out of a 5.3 N/A... I plan on making as much power N/A as possible on a 5.3.
I just really want honeycombs... You think 20s would be better?... I think the smallest honeycombs are 20s and those would be the stock gmc 1500 slt rims from 2014 to 2018.With a 22" wheel you're not going to have much sidewall for good launches, even in 4x4 so the 4.10s would be moot to my way of thinking. Same for the converter unless that camshaft kills your bottom end. But man, I've seen some 6.2 trucks just leap off the line with 4.10s and be gone in a flash!
They would certainly be better for traction and ride, just not as good as 17s or 18s for traction and ride. All projects have trade offs, you'll have to decide which things take priority.I just really want honeycombs... You think 20s would be better?... I think the smallest honeycombs are 20s and those would be the stock gmc 1500 slt rims from 2014 to 2018.
Yeah I get you... I'm also planning on doing the 2019/2020 brake upgrade which requires a 20" rim minimum, so I guess 20" honeycombs it is.They would certainly be better for traction and ride, just not as good as 17s or 18s for traction and ride. All projects have trade offs, you'll have to decide which things take priority.
4.11/4.10s it is as I do a fair amount of highway driving... 50/50 highway and city driving.4.10s for what you say you want to do.
Idk how much highway driving you do, or if this is just a play toy weekend thing. But if you dont highway much go to 4.56s for best acceleration
Loss of top speed is not important really as NA you probably wont have the room to top it out in the 1/4 anyway. And the "Mexico street racing" you would need a decent amount of road to top out 3rd even a C/I 5.3 would have trouble pushing these barns over 130 anyway i would think.
3.73s at 6000 153mph
4.10s at 6000 140mph
4.56s at 6000 125mph
Those are in 3rd since it is 1:1 and likely the only gear you will be able to pull to redline NA so if you are worried about losing top end dont... you will by far need gearing for acceleration.
65 mph cruising rpm in 4th
All with a stock height tire.
Again you will be doubleing price as it is 4x4.
I think you'll find it easier to locate 4.10s as they use a 10 tooth pinion gear and 41 tooth ring gear common with the 3.42s and 3.73s for the front and rear.Thank you all for the help, really appreciate it. I've decided to go with 4.11s. I'll start a thread where I'll post pics of the build over time.