2017 Tahoe LT Failed to start

[Dan17]

After driving for an hour I parked to go into a store and when I came out the Tahoe would not start. The lights, dash appeared to light up just fine and the radio worked as well, I'll also say there are no error codes or check engine light lit.

When I turned the key I would hear the starter click once then nothing. I pulled the key out and reinserted the key to start it and the starter just clicked once so I repeated this five more time and it finally started like normal on the fifth try.

Does this sound like a bad connection at the starter or maybe even the battery?

 

[FrankU]

Dan , Get the battery load tested first.

 

[George100]

I would look at the battery too, you have a 17 and its sad to say but you are coming due for one as they dont last. If it not the battery then look at the security system with the key and then do a deep csi on the scan to check your modules. My money though is the battery is getting weak.

 

[Dan17]

I just put the scanner on it and I'm reading a P0615-00 and a P017-00.

 

[George100]

The P615 is a starter circuit and the P17-B0 which is what i think you have put there is transmission range module circuit low. So the scan is pointing to a problem with the starting system and the range selector. The FSM says to try starting in Neutral first as the BCM is getting the information that something is wrong is park. You will need to get either Alldata or a FSM to get you closer or last option the Dealership

 

[Dan17]

Sorry, I missed the type-o. That should have been P617-00. Stater Relay Control Circuit High Voltage.

Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm thinking the two codes could have been generated by a weak battery.

 

[Bob2C]

If battery is good start looking at the cables from the battery. I seen some posts stating they lose resistance and the vehicle won’t start. There is a YouTube video as well on how to check them with a meter and cracking the engine without starting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[George100]

Ok, for 617 code that is short to voltage in the control circuit. The starter Relay is KR27. Check for the Battery, cables and if nothing there then you will need to look at the starter and its associated connections although after 4 years it would seen unlikely. A short sub to alldata would go along way to helping you with the diagnostic tree for these two codes if the battery does not turn out to be the culprit.

 

[Dan17]

I've had the truck for a week and have spoken to the dealer where I bought it. They said they would take a look at it and correct it. Even though I put a new battery in it it may still be worth letting them see why it happened instead of waiting to see if the battery corrected it.

I can tell the truck starts stronger with the new battery so maybe the battery was to weak.

 

[Dan17]

Well. yesterday afternoon after numerous starts and running erring's around town the truck acted up and wont not start again. The problem is not the battery or the relay as a new relay made no difference.
The truck is now with the dealer.

 

[Gmfm]

Well. yesterday afternoon after numerous starts and running erring's around town the truck acted up and wont not start again. The problem is not the battery or the relay as a new relay made no difference.
The truck is now with the dealer.

Corrosion on the lead wire going from solenoid to starter

 

[Dan17]

Corrosion on the lead wire going from solenoid to starter

You may be right on this corrosion at the start thing. The dealer put in a new starter. So far, all is good.

 

[Tylus]

My ‘17 is doing this exact same thing. I’m actually waiting for a tow truck right now

battery is 14v, turn the key and a click. Nothing else happens.

it did this 4 days ago and had 12.8v on battery. So I charged it overnight. Wouldn’t start initially, then out of nowhere started and hasn’t acted up for 3 days.

this thing is starting to nickel and dime me. Took it to Dealership for the brake recall and things have been failing left/right.

 

[wsteele]

My ‘17 is doing this exact same thing. I’m actually waiting for a tow truck right now

battery is 14v, turn the key and a click. Nothing else happens.

it did this 4 days ago and had 12.8v on battery. So I charged it overnight. Wouldn’t start initially, then out of nowhere started and hasn’t acted up for 3 days.

this thing is starting to nickel and dime me. Took it to Dealership for the brake recall and things have been failing left/right.

You can sustain a lot of nickels and dimes before you get to the $10K a year in depreciation a new one gives you.

 

[Tylus]

with the used car pricing insanity, I can sell this one for almost what I paid for it 3yrs and 40k miles ago.

it's seriously tempting. I got the new starter on Saturday, will replace today.


just super frustrated at a <4yr old rig with 79k miles and all the issues recently. Maintenance has been performed. shouldn't be having these issues...yet.

 

[Dan17]

Tylus, did you solve the issue with your Tahoe?
The dealer replaced the starter in mine and it's been fine. He showed me the one they took out and it looked like there could have been bad contact with one of the 12V pos cables at the starter. I saw a large burn spot on one of the starter post from an arc that happened at one point. The mechanic said it could be a problem for the Tahoe's.

 

[Tylus]

Tylus, did you solve the issue with your Tahoe?
The dealer replaced the starter in mine and it's been fine. He showed me the one they took out and it looked like there could have been bad contact with one of the 12V pos cables at the starter. I saw a large burn spot on one of the starter post from an arc that happened at one point. The mechanic said it could be a problem for the Tahoe's.

I bought a OEM starter off Amazon for $95

replaced it and it’s been perfect since. The old starter had a ton of corrosion and didn’t look the best

it’s a problem for all the 2014+ 5.3 and 6.2 motors (kind of like the DOD lifters). The pickups seem worse hit than these SUV’s, but they are all doing it

There is a new revised part that was issued in MY2018. It was $50 more expensive. So I stayed with the same part that was installed. If it fails again, I’ll use the updated one

 

[LetsGetShwifftyy]

Did anyone figure out what the issue was? I’m having the same issue it won’t start, radio and dash light up but the only light I don’t see is the check engine light. At times I keep trying to start it and when the check engine light pops up it will cut on. I changed the start thinking that was the issue. It’s currently sitting at the dealer