2015 xl denali - ANOTHER no crank - no start issue! Scratching head!!

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Cody27

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Good morning guys. I've read through probably fifty threads of similar issues and fixes, to no avail for me.

My 2015 yukon xl denali developed a no start issue out of the blue. One day I started it and the gauge cluster was black, nothing. Shut it off, removed battery cables to reset and it started like normal. Fast forward 2 weeks, another problem.

My wife drove it like normal and shut it off at her destination. Went to restart a couple hours later and nothing happened. Gauges lit up, every service message you can thunk of was on but it wouldn't crank or start. Unhook battery, checked voltage (12.58v) hooked it back up and no luck. Attempted to start with the fob, fired right up with no gauges or lights on. Wouldn't shut off... pulled fuse to get it to shut off.

Tried to start again from push start button and nothing. Push it once, everything lights up (gauges, radio, hvac etc) push it again and everything fades away and goes black.

Disconnected under hood fuse box and wiring connectors to check for corrosion, all clean. Reinstalled and the truck fired right up. Drove it home, shut down like normal. Tried to start again and no juice. Same as before.

Battery is 4 months old, checking out at 12.58v. To be sure it didn't have a dead cell, replaced with a brand new interstate from my car for diagnostic purposes and no change to symptoms.

Replaced negative battery cable and ground down/cleaned both front frame rail grounds on driver and passenger side. Cleaned both engine block grounds. Cleaned firewall ground.

Removed, inspected and reinstalled both grounds on dash by tweeters on driver and passenger side, no pinched insulation or anything.

I'm getting full 12.5v to everything under the hood, all fuses and power supplies. Checked every single fuse in all 4 fuse panels, all good.

Removed positive starter cable, Cleaned and reinstalled.

Checked all wiring going into ecm and bcm, didn't find any broken, pinched or shorting wires.

As of right now the truck still will not crank. One push of the start button makes the gauges come on with all the service messages, but I do not have power to rear hatch (cannot open it from fob or button). Windows and radio work.

I've tried both key fobs, also putting them in the key fob slot in centre console (no change).

I've removed drivers side kick panels and inspected wires, don't see anything pinched.

I'm aware that I will need to take it in and have it scanned with the appropriate scanner but I really want to try and fix it at home. Not in any mood to deal with the dealer.. I tried to order the negative battery cable last week and they told me $192 and a few months because it was on international back order. I got an ac Delco replacement from rockauto in 3 days (I'm in canada) for under $100.

Am I missing something? I'm going to try jumping the starter today.. other than that I'm not sure what else to do.

Sorry for the long post just trying to save time on suggestions!
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

Yes, try jumping the starter directly, as that will narrow down the potential areas where the source of the issue is.

Other members on this Forum that are much more knowledgeable than me will also chime in.
 
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Cody27

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Update.. jumped the starter and it turned over fast and strong. Didn't attempt to start but I think I can rule out the starter.
 

TrybalRage

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I have the exact same issue. I'm suspecting a bad BCM but everyone seems to think its grounds. All my grounds look fine, so IDK.
 

Jrusso55

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Good morning guys. I've read through probably fifty threads of similar issues and fixes, to no avail for me.

My 2015 yukon xl denali developed a no start issue out of the blue. One day I started it and the gauge cluster was black, nothing. Shut it off, removed battery cables to reset and it started like normal. Fast forward 2 weeks, another problem.

My wife drove it like normal and shut it off at her destination. Went to restart a couple hours later and nothing happened. Gauges lit up, every service message you can thunk of was on but it wouldn't crank or start. Unhook battery, checked voltage (12.58v) hooked it back up and no luck. Attempted to start with the fob, fired right up with no gauges or lights on. Wouldn't shut off... pulled fuse to get it to shut off.

Tried to start again from push start button and nothing. Push it once, everything lights up (gauges, radio, hvac etc) push it again and everything fades away and goes black.

Disconnected under hood fuse box and wiring connectors to check for corrosion, all clean. Reinstalled and the truck fired right up. Drove it home, shut down like normal. Tried to start again and no juice. Same as before.

Battery is 4 months old, checking out at 12.58v. To be sure it didn't have a dead cell, replaced with a brand new interstate from my car for diagnostic purposes and no change to symptoms.

Replaced negative battery cable and ground down/cleaned both front frame rail grounds on driver and passenger side. Cleaned both engine block grounds. Cleaned firewall ground.

Removed, inspected and reinstalled both grounds on dash by tweeters on driver and passenger side, no pinched insulation or anything.

I'm getting full 12.5v to everything under the hood, all fuses and power supplies. Checked every single fuse in all 4 fuse panels, all good.

Removed positive starter cable, Cleaned and reinstalled.

Checked all wiring going into ecm and bcm, didn't find any broken, pinched or shorting wires.

As of right now the truck still will not crank. One push of the start button makes the gauges come on with all the service messages, but I do not have power to rear hatch (cannot open it from fob or button). Windows and radio work.

I've tried both key fobs, also putting them in the key fob slot in centre console (no change).

I've removed drivers side kick panels and inspected wires, don't see anything pinched.

I'm aware that I will need to take it in and have it scanned with the appropriate scanner but I really want to try and fix it at home. Not in any mood to deal with the dealer.. I tried to order the negative battery cable last week and they told me $192 and a few months because it was on international back order. I got an ac Delco replacement from rockauto in 3 days (I'm in canada) for under $100.

Am I missing something? I'm going to try jumping the starter today.. other than that I'm not sure what else to do.

Sorry for the long post just trying to save time on suggestions!
I am having the same issue with my 2016 Yukon XL, did you ever find a fix?
Thanks
 

THarber

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How did you jump the starter? It sounds to me like a bad starter relay which is on the starter itself. Pull it off and have it checked. It's a quick job. Mine did the same thing and ended up being the starter.
 

The guitar zombie

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I had the same problem. For future searchers, do not assume bright lights and dash mean the battery will start the car. When there isn't enough power to start, the display goes dark. For me, using a charger didn't work. I jumped the car and let it charge itself.

My battery was knocked down because the fan was running contantly from a bad temp Sensor causing the car to assume overheating.

Don't discount the way this car acts with low battery.
 

Ashleyjune

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Posting on this thread because we had a similar issue, except mine was an intermittent problem, replaced starter, replaced fuel pump, and then it was a permanent problem… Had it towed to a dealership for diagnostics, and they told us that GMCs “prefer” GM genuine starters (ACDelco brand) over off-brand starters. (The gentleman I spoke to at O’Reilly’s thinks this could be due to pulling 1.7 kw vs 1.4?) Don’t shoot me, I’m a female, don’t know anything about cars, simply sharing what we learned.

Dealership quoted me $810 for a starter, but I’m not stupid. We ordered one for $77 from Rock Auto. (By the way, the original part number from the GM parts headquarters website is now replaced by a new part number, which is what I ordered.)

Fingers crossed that this is what fixes it for me. I love my 2015 Yukon Denali, despite its almost 240k miles. Hoping it’s with me for a bit longer. Has been a fantastic vehicle, minus the cost of having to replace both taillights ‍♀️
 
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