2011 Chevy Tahoe 2011 5.3 (6L80 2WD P2723/P0700)

[JayDaGreatt]

Problems started when going 0-15 mph, high revs but no engagement then finally it would run soon after that i got the P2723 and P0700

-P2723 (Clutch Pressure Solenoid 5 stuck off)
-P0700 ( Trans control system malfunction)

Checked fluid level, noticed it was dark so i dropped the pan. No sign of metal shavings just a bit of gunk on the magnet. Decided to put new fluid and filter (level was good) disconnected battery and (manually cleared TCM by pressing on the gas pedal all the way then letting go procedure) ran a little better then the codes came back. This time it went into limp mode, dropped the pan again took off valve body.

Resistance for clutch pressure control solenoids are all (5.3 ohms)

Resistance for shift solenoids are (23.8-24 ohms)

Resistance for pressure switches varies (0.9-1.7ohms) closed for open circuit while pressing with pencil eraser it goes up to (35 ohms/sometimes even 50 ohms)

Is it supposed to max out at 12.5 ohms? Am i applying too much pressure with the pencil?

It does drop down to (1.7 ohms) all the time.

What do you think i should try at this point? The pressure switches seem to be fine and not torn maybe its the TEHCM malfunctioning any help is greatly appreciated thanks alot!

 

[JayDaGreatt]

Problems started when going 0-15 mph, high revs but no engagement then finally it would run soon after that i got the P2723 and P0700

-P2723 (Clutch Pressure Solenoid 5 stuck off)
-P0700 ( Trans control system malfunction)

Checked fluid level, noticed it was dark so i dropped the pan. No sign of metal shavings just a bit of gunk on the magnet. Decided to put new fluid and filter (level was good) disconnected battery and (manually cleared TCM by pressing on the gas pedal all the way then letting go procedure) ran a little better then the codes came back. This time it went into limp mode, dropped the pan again took off valve body.

Resistance for clutch pressure control solenoids are all (5.3 ohms)

Resistance for shift solenoids are (23.8-24 ohms)

Resistance for pressure switches varies (0.9-1.7ohms) closed for open circuit while pressing with pencil eraser it goes up to (35 ohms/sometimes even 50 ohms)

Is it supposed to max out at 12.5 ohms? Am i applying too much pressure with the pencil?

It does drop down to (1.7 ohms) all the time.

What do you think i should try at this point? The pressure switches seem to be fine and not torn maybe its the TEHCM malfunctioning any help is greatly appreciated thanks alot!

Update: The TECHM's pressure switches board seemed to be a little warped looks like some stuff got in there also the clutch pressure solenoids dont click the same (12 volt test) ended up ordering a remanufactured one from Street Smart lets hope for the best. Now just needing a capable scanner to fast learn & adapt the vehicle wish me luck!

@NickTransmissions

 

[Geotrash]

Update: The TECHM's pressure switches board seemed to be a little warped looks like some stuff got in there also the clutch pressure solenoids dont click the same (12 volt test) ended up ordering a remanufactured one from Street Smart lets hope for the best. Now just needing a capable scanner to fast learn & adapt the vehicle wish me luck!

@NickTransmissions

Where are you located? We have a list of folks who have a Tech2 in many areas of the US and Canada who will lend a hand with their scanner if needed.

Tech 2 Owners Map

 

[JayDaGreatt]

Where are you located? We have a list of folks who have a Tech2 in many areas of the US and Canada who will lend a hand with their scanner if needed.

Tech 2 Owners Map

@Geotrash

Im located in El Paso TX my friend, have asked a couple of shops but no luck since they have to come to my residence. I really appreciate the help thanks for sharing this info

 

[NickTransmissions]

Problems started when going 0-15 mph, high revs but no engagement then finally it would run soon after that i got the P2723 and P0700

-P2723 (Clutch Pressure Solenoid 5 stuck off)
-P0700 ( Trans control system malfunction)

Checked fluid level, noticed it was dark so i dropped the pan. No sign of metal shavings just a bit of gunk on the magnet. Decided to put new fluid and filter (level was good) disconnected battery and (manually cleared TCM by pressing on the gas pedal all the way then letting go procedure) ran a little better then the codes came back. This time it went into limp mode, dropped the pan again took off valve body.

Resistance for clutch pressure control solenoids are all (5.3 ohms)

Resistance for shift solenoids are (23.8-24 ohms)

Resistance for pressure switches varies (0.9-1.7ohms) closed for open circuit while pressing with pencil eraser it goes up to (35 ohms/sometimes even 50 ohms)

Is it supposed to max out at 12.5 ohms? Am i applying too much pressure with the pencil?

It does drop down to (1.7 ohms) all the time.

What do you think i should try at this point? The pressure switches seem to be fine and not torn maybe its the TEHCM malfunctioning any help is greatly appreciated thanks alot!

TEHCM passed the DVOM resistance testing you completed. A pressure switch open circuit failure would show as the resistance spiking to tens of thousands of ohms when you relieve pressure off the switch...When pressure is applied, you should see 12-12.9 ohms (which is what happened). Returning back to .7-1.2 ohms is what's supposed to happen.

Your resistance readings from the shift solenoids are normal as well.

P2723 is often valve body, not TEHCM but the system simply isn't smart enough to distinguish the source of the fault as it only monitors the solenoids/switches not the valve body itself. You may have worn/shrunken check balls (seen more often in earlier units pre 2014), clutch select valves 2 and 3 spring wear or bore plug wear, regulator valve bore wear (upper valve body), etc.

Update: The TECHM's pressure switches board seemed to be a little warped looks like some stuff got in there also the clutch pressure solenoids dont click the same (12 volt test) ended up ordering a remanufactured one from Street Smart lets hope for the best. Now just needing a capable scanner to fast learn & adapt the vehicle wish me luck!

@NickTransmissions

When you say 'a little warped' are you referring to the switches themselves or the actual mating surface? Did you put a straight edge to it (could simply be a metal ruler in good shape and a feeler gauge).

DO NOT throw your old TEHCM out yet (assuming you still have it). Make sure the part number, starting with '242' on the new one matches the part number on your existing TEHCM. If they don't match, that transmission will never work right.

What voltage readings did you get when you performed the voltage test on the shift solenoids, clutch pressure control solenoids, line pressure solenoid and PWM solenoid?

Any bi-directional scanner with adapt functionality will work. Examples include most of Snap On's two way scan tools, Autel, OTC and the TECH 2 assuming it's a pre-2014 model year vehicle.

 

[Geotrash]

@Geotrash

Im located in El Paso TX my friend, have asked a couple of shops but no luck since they have to come to my residence. I really appreciate the help thanks for sharing this info

Hmmm... don't see anyone on the list from El Paso. You can buy a Tech2 clone (which is what most of us have) for around $200 at chinacardiags.com and they work great for all kinds of things on these trucks, including setting the transmission adapts.

 

[JayDaGreatt]

TEHCM passed the DVOM resistance testing you completed. A pressure switch open circuit failure would show as the resistance spiking to tens of thousands of ohms when you relieve pressure off the switch...When pressure is applied, you should see 12-12.9 ohms (which is what happened). Returning back to .7-1.2 ohms is what's supposed to happen.

Your resistance readings from the shift solenoids are normal as well.

P2723 is often valve body, not TEHCM but the system simply isn't smart enough to distinguish the source of the fault as it only monitors the solenoids/switches not the valve body itself. You may have worn/shrunken check balls (seen more often in earlier units pre 2014), clutch select valves 2 and 3 spring wear or bore plug wear, regulator valve bore wear (upper valve body), etc.

When you say 'a little warped' are you referring to the switches themselves or the actual mating surface? Did you put a straight edge to it (could simply be a metal ruler in good shape and a feeler gauge).

DO NOT throw your old TEHCM out yet (assuming you still have it). Make sure the part number, starting with '242' on the new one matches the part number on your existing TEHCM. If they don't match, that transmission will never work right.

What voltage readings did you get when you performed the voltage test on the shift solenoids, clutch pressure control solenoids, line pressure solenoid and PWM solenoid?

Any bi-directional scanner with adapt functionality will work. Examples include most of Snap On's two way scan tools, Autel, OTC and the TECH 2 assuming it's a pre-2014 model year vehicle.

I actually didnt perform the voltage readings i just simply got 2 wires and connected the battery to the solenoids and they all clicked very softly except for (Clutch Pressure Solenoid 2) which made a loud & significant click. I attached some pics of the pressure switches surface looks like it wants to come apart at one edge, also my next task is to open up the valve body and inspect all the check valves as well as the springs.

 

[JayDaGreatt]

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Where are you located? We have a list of folks who have a Tech2 in many areas of the US and Canada who will lend a hand with their scanner if needed.

Tech 2 Owners Map

Hmmm... don't see anyone on the list from El Paso. You can buy a Tech2 clone (which is what most of us have) for around $200 at chinacardiags.com and they work great for all kinds of things on these trucks, including setting the transmission adapts.

A buddy of mine replied hes got a Snap-on scanner with bi directional adapt capablities but i do have to purchase my own no doubt, i will deff check out the website you sent me brother, thanks again!

 

[JayDaGreatt]

TEHCM passed the DVOM resistance testing you completed. A pressure switch open circuit failure would show as the resistance spiking to tens of thousands of ohms when you relieve pressure off the switch...When pressure is applied, you should see 12-12.9 ohms (which is what happened). Returning back to .7-1.2 ohms is what's supposed to happen.

Your resistance readings from the shift solenoids are normal as well.

P2723 is often valve body, not TEHCM but the system simply isn't smart enough to distinguish the source of the fault as it only monitors the solenoids/switches not the valve body itself. You may have worn/shrunken check balls (seen more often in earlier units pre 2014), clutch select valves 2 and 3 spring wear or bore plug wear, regulator valve bore wear (upper valve body), etc.

When you say 'a little warped' are you referring to the switches themselves or the actual mating surface? Did you put a straight edge to it (could simply be a metal ruler in good shape and a feeler gauge).

DO NOT throw your old TEHCM out yet (assuming you still have it). Make sure the part number, starting with '242' on the new one matches the part number on your existing TEHCM. If they don't match, that transmission will never work right.

What voltage readings did you get when you performed the voltage test on the shift solenoids, clutch pressure control solenoids, line pressure solenoid and PWM solenoid?

Any bi-directional scanner with adapt functionality will work. Examples include most of Snap On's two way scan tools, Autel, OTC and the TECH 2 assuming it's a pre-2014 model year vehicle.

Wow i didn't know that, thought if they just programmed the part to the VIN it would work, i will prob have to return lol

 

[NickTransmissions]

I actually didnt perform the voltage readings i just simply got 2 wires and connected the battery to the solenoids and they all clicked very softly except for (Clutch Pressure Solenoid 2) which made a loud & significant click. I attached some pics of the pressure switches surface looks like it wants to come apart at one edge, also my next task is to open up the valve body and inspect all the check valves as well as the springs.

They all look like that.

You need to do a voltage/amperage test w/a fused power source before condemning the TEHCM to see the readings...clicking by itself means nothing. Also, stick a straight edge on the pressure switch surface to check for warpage (it's rare, so would be surprised if you are able to see any).

I suspect your TEHCM is fine - perhaps could use a new solenoid filter screen and new seals on the pressure switches but nothing more.

For now, I'd not open that new TEHCM until you determine you actually need it or not (though it's up to you if you want to proceed w/the install).

This transmission/ECM will engage in dis-information when it comes to DTCs as many codes that are tied to solenoids have their root cause in the valve body, pump cover and/or case components.