2010 Burb Misfire

[solli5pack]

It being more than just a bolt and being a TTY design, I'd replace it if even for the peace of mind. The labor in accessing it far exceed its ~$70 cost.

Just when I thought I was done ordering parts!!! Damm it! I guess I should stick with O.E.M replacement??Thanks for the response...

 

[iamdub]

Just when I thought I was done ordering parts!!! Damm it!

It's aggravating, but cut yourself some slack. You don't do this every day for a living.

I guess I should stick with O.E.M replacement??Thanks for the response...

Better safe than sorry! If the original lasted 100K+ miles, why risk deviating from that to save $30? That money saved won't mean shit if a low-quality replacement fails within the next 10K, 20K, 40K, etc. miles. I can just about guarantee you it won't fail while you're parked safely at home.

 

[solli5pack]

It's aggravating, but cut yourself some slack. You don't do this every day for a living.




Better safe than sorry! If the original lasted 100K+ miles, why risk deviating from that to save $30? That money saved won't mean shit if a low-quality replacement fails within the next 10K, 20K, 40K, etc. miles. I can just about guarantee you it won't fail while you're parked safely at home.

Thanks..you're right. Going on two weeks now the trucks been up on jack stands. It's getting old. This things not easy to find. #12682000
It's backordered most GM sites. Found it on Advanced auto site. Hopefully doesn't take long to show up.

 

[iamdub]

Thanks..you're right. Going on two weeks now the trucks been up on jack stands. It's getting old. This things not easy to find. #12682000
It's backordered most GM sites. Found it on Advanced auto site. Hopefully doesn't take long to show up.

Supply has been ailing for three years and counting now. The thing with OEM parts is a lot are made by the same manufacturers that make the aftermarket stuff. For instance, Timken does or did make the wheel bearings. Oil pumps are or were made by Melling. Possibly the same with the lifters. AC Delco does not manufacture parts. The trick is to find the company that makes the OEM parts as those would (or should) be the same reliable quality. They're often cheaper than the ones in the AC Delco/GM Genuine packages even thought they're the exact same as what was in it from the factory.

 

[solli5pack]

Well scratch that. Advanced canceled my order because they don't have the part. So either now I go with a Dorman or reuse the original.

 

[solli5pack]

Well scratch that. Advanced canceled my order because they don't have the part. So either now I go with a Dorman or reuse the original.

Just saw a video from Scoggin-Dickey that GM states you can reuse it once. Tourqe to 48' lbs then turn 50 degrees. I think I might go that route rather than use an aftermarket one. I did find a place that has one made by Melling which is usually considered a good brand but who knows anymore.

 

[j91z28d1]

just took a look at my software, it does say replace the bolt, which they call the CMP actuator bolt

tighten it to 48ft lbs and then 90deg.. so yeah it's probably torque to yield bolt.

 

[j91z28d1]

Just saw a video from Scoggin-Dickey that GM states you can reuse it once. Tourqe to 48' lbs then turn 50 degrees. I think I might go that route rather than use an aftermarket one. I did find a place that has one made by Melling which is usually considered a good brand but who knows anymore.

to be fair, they say the same thing about the rod bolts. for some reason they can be used 3 times. which doesn't make sense to me. it should either be one time or not but I reused my main and rod bolts on my ls3. beat it to death and alls been good. tons of videos put there of the "sloppy mechanics" way. just torque and send it 8s on reusing stock stuff. everything pulled out of a junk box of scrap 5.3 junk yard motors lol

it's your call definitely. I personally would feel fine following Scoggin-Dickey recommendations.

 

[solli5pack]

to be fair, they say the same thing about the rod bolts. for some reason they can be used 3 times. which doesn't make sense to me. it should either be one time or not but I reused my main and rod bolts on my ls3. beat it to death and alls been good. tons of videos put there of the "sloppy mechanics" way. just torque and send it 8s on reusing stock stuff. everything pulled out of a junk box of scrap 5.3 junk yard motors lol

it's your call definitely. I personally would feel fine following Scoggin-Dickey recommendations.

It's funny that once supply is tight then GM states it's reusable. I think I feel better reusing the oem one than an aftermarket so probably going to go that route. Thanks for the info. I linked the Scoggin video below if anyone wants to watch it.

 

[iamdub]

Just saw a video from Scoggin-Dickey that GM states you can reuse it once. Tourqe to 48' lbs then turn 50 degrees. I think I might go that route rather than use an aftermarket one. I did find a place that has one made by Melling which is usually considered a good brand but who knows anymore.

I'd run a Melling. I wouldn't be surprised if they are the OEM for GM. They made or make the GM oil pumps and possibly the lifters. Maybe other parts as well.

 

[solli5pack]

Quick question. Getting ready to put the oil pan back on tomorrow. I should be plugging the pressure relief valve in the pan correct?

 

[iamdub]

Quick question. Getting ready to put the oil pan back on tomorrow. I should be plugging the pressure relief valve in the pan correct?

I would. It's no longer needed if AFM is disabled or deleted. Leaving it as-is with the valve in place is likely fine, but it's still a potential leak point. I used an oil plug for (I think) a Honda Accord. Also used an aluminum crush washer instead of the plastic gasket since I had one on hand: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1427085

 

[solli5pack]

I would. It's no longer needed if AFM is disabled or deleted. Leaving it as-is with the valve in place is likely fine, but it's still a potential leak point. I used an oil plug for (I think) a Honda Accord. Also used an aluminum crush washer instead of the plastic gasket since I had one on hand: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1427085

Got it. Thanks!

 

[solli5pack]

Got another question for you guys. The input shaft seal on the transfer case is leaking so I'm gonna change it before I put it back in and drain and replace the fluid. Having trouble finding a video that shows the type of case that's in my truck. I just wanted to verify the drain and fill holes. I circled what I believe to be the drain hole in blue and fill hole in red. You guys agree?

 

[Fless]

I don't know these newer drivetrains but that looks like a differential to me. But what do I know?

 

[wjburken]

Got another question for you guys. The input shaft seal on the transfer case is leaking so I'm gonna change it before I put it back in and drain and replace the fluid. Having trouble finding a video that shows the type of case that's in my truck. I just wanted to verify the drain and fill holes. I circled what I believe to be the drain hole in blue and fill hole in red. You guys agree?

View attachment 404016View attachment 404017

Yes, the one circled in red is the fill plug. They can be a biotch to get off. Ask me how I know. Soak it with penetrating oil for a while before trying to take it off.

Also, a small point of clarification…that is your front differential, not your transfer case.

 

[wjburken]

I don't know these newer drivetrains but that looks like a differential to me. But what do I know?

You old guys and your old vintage vehicles…..

 

[solli5pack]

I don't know these newer drivetrains but that looks like a differential to me. But what do I know?

You're right. It is. I was calling it by the wrong name. Explains why I could find a good video.

 

[Fless]

"Old" and "vintage" together is somewhat redundant, but I get your point. Simpler vehicle for a simpler guy. I resemble that!

 

[solli5pack]

Yes, the one circled in red is the fill plug. They can be a biotch to get off. Ask me how I know. Soak it with penetrating oil for a while before trying to take it off.

Also, a small point of clarification…that is your front differential, not your transfer case.

Just realized that! Thank you for the info!