2008 TAHOE LTZ Z55 conversion questions

[Chris_from_cincy]

Hi Everyone!
Just bought my first tahoe last week. Has 96k on the clock and has the dreaded service suspension light. pretty sure the rear shocks are toast. haven't done the soapy water test to see if they're leaking but there a few visible spots on the bags, either way I'm looking at converting the suspension to passive. I'm either going to run bilstein 5100's or The rancho quick lift system up front to give me a 2" level. Ordering 22x9 GMC wheels and going to be running the stock gmc 285/45r22 tire size. the rear is where i have the most questions i guess. This rig will be used to tow our 20' boat in the summers so i was looking at the Monroe 58654 Load adjust shock absorber. Anyone run these on a tahoe or 'burban? Will they even work for our applications fitment wise? i tried calling monroe and they weren't much help because once you start getting away from stock setups they can't answer those questions. From the info I've given is there a better option i should be running in the rear as far as passive goes? I really wanna stay away from dropping $900 on replacing the air-ride. $135 for the monroe's and a little wiring to trick the computer seems like a much better option to me. Thoughts? please help

 

[kbuskill]

Hi Everyone!
Just bought my first tahoe last week. Has 96k on the clock and has the dreaded service suspension light. pretty sure the rear shocks are toast. haven't done the soapy water test to see if they're leaking but there a few visible spots on the bags, either way I'm looking at converting the suspension to passive. I'm either going to run bilstein 5100's or The rancho quick lift system up front to give me a 2" level. Ordering 22x9 GMC wheels and going to be running the stock gmc 285/45r22 tire size. the rear is where i have the most questions i guess. This rig will be used to tow our 20' boat in the summers so i was looking at the Monroe 58654 Load adjust shock absorber. Anyone run these on a tahoe or 'burban? Will they even work for our applications fitment wise? i tried calling monroe and they weren't much help because once you start getting away from stock setups they can't answer those questions. From the info I've given is there a better option i should be running in the rear as far as passive goes? I really wanna stay away from dropping $900 on replacing the air-ride. $135 for the monroe's and a little wiring to trick the computer seems like a much better option to me. Thoughts? please help

Does your auto leveling compressor still operate?

Can you hear it turn on for a few seconds right after you start the truck?

If it still works then your best bet would be to just install a set of Monroe or Gabriel air shocks for the rear end of your truck and hook them up to the factory air compressor and let it function as the factory designed it to. When you hook up to your trailer the compressor will turn on and self level the rear end.

You will still need the resistors to trick the "Auto ride" portion of the system however.

If your compressor doesn't work you can pick one up for about $150 and it is an easy install and the auto leveling is a really nice feature. I even kept the auto leveling on my 4/6 dropped Burb by using shorter air ride shocks.

 

[Geotrash]

Rockauto sells the OEM rear Z55 air ride shocks for $250 each. I just put two on my 2012 and they're perfect. Why muck around?

 

[Big Mama]

Agreed. Take it from a fellow boat puller. The auto leveling is the way to go. Mines 13 years old and has 135k on them. Ken’s question about the compressor is key.