2008 old shocks?

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Ken Dalton

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I have a 2008 LTZ Tahoe and it has 130k miles. It's only need a handful of small things to keep it running just fine so I'm happy about that. But the ride seems a little rough.

It has the air shocks in the rear but I'm wondering what it takes to replace the shocks with new ones. Is it just a simple shock replacement? complete struts, replace air shocks in the rear? I'm trying to get some insight on what I need to get.

The air compressor is a little noisy but seems to still do the job.
My front end makes some weird clunks when I turn sharp (like in a parking lot) and the tires squeal when turning really sharp and slow which seems odd.

Any info on any of this is appreciated.
 

wjburken

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I have a 2008 LTZ Tahoe and it has 130k miles. It's only need a handful of small things to keep it running just fine so I'm happy about that. But the ride seems a little rough.

It has the air shocks in the rear but I'm wondering what it takes to replace the shocks with new ones. Is it just a simple shock replacement? complete struts, replace air shocks in the rear? I'm trying to get some insight on what I need to get.

The air compressor is a little noisy but seems to still do the job.
My front end makes some weird clunks when I turn sharp (like in a parking lot) and the tires squeal when turning really sharp and slow which seems odd.

Any info on any of this is appreciated.
If you want to replace same for same, the rear shocks are very straight forward to replace. Basically, there is a bolt at the top and at the bottom and a air line and wire harness connection on each shock. They will run you around $200, maybe a little more, if you go with Arnott's, which I would recommend. If you buy their new shocks, they have been having a $25 rebate on the core. If you buy their reman, there is no rebate. If you replace the rear shocks, there is a 90% chance you will bump the ABS harness and cause it to partially disconnect, particularly on the drivers side, that sits above the frame and you will get a error on your dash. If you forget to double check this harness connection, and you get the error, that is likely the issue.

Front struts, I have not found a good source for a complete strut/coil assembly for the auto level so you will need to get the strut and swap the springs or buy new springs. That is fairly straight forward as well to replace the assembled strut/coil assembly. 3 nuts on top, two bolts on the bottom and a wire harness. You will need to remove the tire, obviously, and I can't recall if you need to remove the half shaft to get the strut out or if you need to remove the strut to get the half shaft out. It's been a while since I've done the fronts.

If you are under the rear, might as well look at replacing the compressor as well. It is a straight forward job as well. Just did in on my 2013 last night. Loosen 3 nuts, disconnect 1 wire harness, 2 air lines and pop loose a vent line and it's off. My compressor came with a new relay that they said had to be installed under the hood as well. It came with two pigtails so you can connect to either the square or round harness connector for the compressor. Only tips I have for the compressor is try and get under their with a hose or go through a car wash with an undercarriage wash to get as much crap and crud cleaned off or you risk getting a face full of that stuff.

As for the clunking, it could be the struts, or it could be a CV joint that is wearing our, a wheel bearing that is starting to go or a ball joint that is failing. I would get those checked out.
 

swathdiver

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I have a 2008 LTZ Tahoe and it has 130k miles. It's only need a handful of small things to keep it running just fine so I'm happy about that. But the ride seems a little rough.

It has the air shocks in the rear but I'm wondering what it takes to replace the shocks with new ones. Is it just a simple shock replacement? complete struts, replace air shocks in the rear? I'm trying to get some insight on what I need to get.

The air compressor is a little noisy but seems to still do the job.
My front end makes some weird clunks when I turn sharp (like in a parking lot) and the tires squeal when turning really sharp and slow which seems odd.

Any info on any of this is appreciated.

You're probably due for a suspension overhaul. Out back, you can start with new rear shocks and check the lines. Test the compressor but probably still good for another couple of years. Up front, you probably need the bushings to your swaybar replaced, they probably fell out. The control arm ball joints are nearing or are at the end of their service life.

So based on what you mentioned and my expert armchair diagnosis, I'd say rear shocks and front swaybar end links to start with. ;)

Merry Christmas!
 

wjburken

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You're probably due for a suspension overhaul. Out back, you can start with new rear shocks and check the lines. Test the compressor but probably still good for another couple of years. Up front, you probably need the bushings to your swaybar replaced, they probably fell out. The control arm ball joints are nearing or are at the end of their service life.

So based on what you mentioned and my expert armchair diagnosis, I'd say rear shocks and front swaybar end links to start with. ;)

Merry Christmas!
Forgot about sway bar links and bushings. Good catch as a likely source of clunking and clanking. If it is your sway bar bushings, soak them in Kroil for a day or two, getting some on the end of the bolt above the frame, or you will run the risk of them breaking off. I had the good fortune of drilling out all four bolts out after they broke off on my 2007.
 

swathdiver

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Forgot about sway bar links and bushings. Good catch as a likely source of clunking and clanking. If it is your sway bar bushings, soak them in Kroil for a day or two, getting some on the end of the bolt above the frame, or you will run the risk of them breaking off. I had the good fortune of drilling out all four bolts out after they broke off on my 2007.

You had the frame bolts break off and drilled them all out? One bolt on the right broke me! I snapped off the head with a breaker bar and busted $54 worth of fancy bits. Then my buddy and I did a bush fix, which worked plenty fine, but I wanted it back to OEM. A couple weeks ago I had some young guys drill it out for me, they broke 3 more bits. Come January I'll put a heli-coil in there and remove the blind nut. All four bolts now have anti-seize coating them! My truck was from West Virginia.
 

wjburken

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You had the frame bolts break off and drilled them all out? One bolt on the right broke me! I snapped off the head with a breaker bar and busted $54 worth of fancy bits. Then my buddy and I did a bush fix, which worked plenty fine, but I wanted it back to OEM. A couple weeks ago I had some young guys drill it out for me, they broke 3 more bits. Come January I'll put a heli-coil in there and remove the blind nut. All four bolts now have anti-seize coating them! My truck was from West Virginia.
Yeah, I got to drill all four of them. Went through a couple (or four or five or ...) bits and a lot of drill/tap fluid. It was a blast! I drilled out the threaded flange and put a locking nut on the back side of the frame with a Grade 8 bolt, torqued them to the german torque spec of gutentight and called it good. Love that Midwest road salt.
 

91RS

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The thing you need to know about Arnott is you will lose Mag/Auto ride with their shocks. If you read their web site carefully, all their shocks are passive shocks. The plug has a resistor to keep the service suspension message from coming on. They’re web site does not spell that out clearly but that is why their shocks are significantly cheaper than factory. To keep Mag/Auto ride you need factory shocks. You can find them online and sometimes find old part numbers on eBay for cheap.
 

kbuskill

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The thing you need to know about Arnott is you will lose Mag/Auto ride with their shocks. If you read their web site carefully, all their shocks are passive shocks. The plug has a resistor to keep the service suspension message from coming on. They’re web site does not spell that out clearly but that is why their shocks are significantly cheaper than factory. To keep Mag/Auto ride you need factory shocks. You can find them online and sometimes find old part numbers on eBay for cheap.

Unless something has changed since I bought mine, Arnott sells remanufactured original Autoride/auto level shocks for the rear.

They rebuild the originals with better air bladders.

Part # AS-2708
 

wjburken

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Unless something has changed since I bought mine, Arnott sells remanufactured original Autoride/auto level shocks for the rear.

They rebuild the originals with better air bladders.

Part # AS-2708
That is my understanding as well.

AS-2700 are new shocks and usually come with a $25 core rebate per shock.
 
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