If you didn't use oem parts it's possible one of them has failed already
2007 Yukon Denali stalling
- Thread starter Bruce Mace
- Start date
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Bruce Mace
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All OEM parts
well I guess it's back to Wade's drawing board to troubleshoot
wjburken
Supporting Member
@Bruce Mace,
First off, Merry Christmas my friend. Hope you are able to enjoy time with loved ones today.
Sorry to hear that you are still getting the P0011 code.
A couple questions.
1) You said that the wiring for your Cam Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor and the VVT Solenoid were all good. Who checked them and how were they checked? Was it a visual check or did someone put a multi-meter on them and check for proper voltage, resistance and continuity?
2) Who replaced the VVT Actuator that threads into the end of the camshaft and holds then VVT phaser sprocket on? Was the proper torquing steps followed where it is pre-torqued and then torqued-to-angle?
If both of these were done properly, then I would start thinking about tearing into your timing chain cover and seeing what going on. Just want to make sure you have exhausted everything else first, which I think you have, to the best of my limited knowledge and based on what you have shared here.
If you do tear into it, I would just plan on replacing the whole timing chain set up: VVT phaser Sprocket, VVT Actuator, crank sprocket, timing chain and timing chain tensioner while you are in there.
I’m not sure if this is something you would be doing or if you would be hiring this done. If you are doing it yourself, there are a few things you might want to keep in mind. If I am not mistaken, to replace the timing chain, you need to remove the oil pump. GM did not do you any favors here. I had to do all of this to replace the camshaft on my 2007 6.2L AWD Denali. Basically, you need to drop the front differential, if it’s AWD, and lower the steering rack, remove the front frame cross member, and then drop the oil pan, remove the oil pick-up tube. That will let you take off the oil pump. (If others have a short cut or trick that doesn’t include hoping you don’t drop the pick/up tube bolt into the oil pan, please speak up.)
With that said, you will need a new oil pan gasket and I would get a new O-ring for your oil pick-up tube as well since you will be in there and these have a habit of going bad. You will also need some RTV to seal the corners where the front timing cover and rear cover and oil pan all meet.
Others may chime in, and I hope they do, with some other thoughts, but you have been dealing with this since May, if I read correctly, and have thrown a list of OEM parts at it and still have your issue. Might be time to bite the bullet.
First off, Merry Christmas my friend. Hope you are able to enjoy time with loved ones today.
Sorry to hear that you are still getting the P0011 code.
A couple questions.
1) You said that the wiring for your Cam Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor and the VVT Solenoid were all good. Who checked them and how were they checked? Was it a visual check or did someone put a multi-meter on them and check for proper voltage, resistance and continuity?
2) Who replaced the VVT Actuator that threads into the end of the camshaft and holds then VVT phaser sprocket on? Was the proper torquing steps followed where it is pre-torqued and then torqued-to-angle?
If both of these were done properly, then I would start thinking about tearing into your timing chain cover and seeing what going on. Just want to make sure you have exhausted everything else first, which I think you have, to the best of my limited knowledge and based on what you have shared here.
If you do tear into it, I would just plan on replacing the whole timing chain set up: VVT phaser Sprocket, VVT Actuator, crank sprocket, timing chain and timing chain tensioner while you are in there.
I’m not sure if this is something you would be doing or if you would be hiring this done. If you are doing it yourself, there are a few things you might want to keep in mind. If I am not mistaken, to replace the timing chain, you need to remove the oil pump. GM did not do you any favors here. I had to do all of this to replace the camshaft on my 2007 6.2L AWD Denali. Basically, you need to drop the front differential, if it’s AWD, and lower the steering rack, remove the front frame cross member, and then drop the oil pan, remove the oil pick-up tube. That will let you take off the oil pump. (If others have a short cut or trick that doesn’t include hoping you don’t drop the pick/up tube bolt into the oil pan, please speak up.)
With that said, you will need a new oil pan gasket and I would get a new O-ring for your oil pick-up tube as well since you will be in there and these have a habit of going bad. You will also need some RTV to seal the corners where the front timing cover and rear cover and oil pan all meet.
Others may chime in, and I hope they do, with some other thoughts, but you have been dealing with this since May, if I read correctly, and have thrown a list of OEM parts at it and still have your issue. Might be time to bite the bullet.
So I’m still experiencing stalling after about 20 minutes of driving. I’ve swapped the camshaft sensor OE, crank sensor OE, fuel pump Delphi, magnetic VVT solenoid OE. Again I have never gotten any codes. My good friend who is in Az brought up transmission from day one, theorizing that the TC is staying locked up. I’ve been able to hold the wife off from dumping this thing but at 3k for a reman 6L80 I’m not sure I can stomach a replacement and it not work. I also feel like taking it to a mechanic will just be flushing money. Anyone in Raleigh know a trusted mechanic? Now way this goes to a dealer.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Greg, can that scan tool of yours talk to the transmission's computer? Could be codes stored in there. Flow GMC is absolutely honest folks over in Winston-Salem, too far away. They have another dealership down in Fayette 'Nam; probably too far away too.
Yes, my scanner can communicate w trans. Should I be able to have it up and active and see anything w live data when I know it’s about to stall? Both those places are a haul, my neighbor and a bunch of folks on Nextdoor recommend a independent near me I will probably consult with if I get to that point.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
i would be looking in the torque converter module but also the pressures, not sure what to look for. If codes are thrown, the computer takes a snapshot which you can view later with the righ tool. I had a car that would randomly stall, the only car I bought brand new, and it took several months for the dealer to find a bent pin on a wire harness. It took their top man almost a week to find it, but he was dogged and did get it finally.
Bruce Mace
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Thank you so much for your info, and your greetings, back to you
I will be having the work done by a very qualified mechanic, and I will have the things replaced that you have suggested and see if this issue can be finally dealt with. Thanks again!No trans codes are present current or history. I can read all the pressures at all 6 solenoids among other things but my scanner cannot actuate or run any cleaning commands to them. Sitting there idling, all items monitored were within range per my scanner, FWIW. I’ll keep it hooked up next time I’m out with it and have the live data up when I know it will stall.
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