2007 Tahoe LTZ 5.3 4x4 Whipple or Magnuson

[okfoz]

I am considering installing either a Whipple or Magnuson SC on my 2007 Tahoe, does anyone have opinions which is better and why?

I have 313,000 miles on it, and it runs like a top, even with a leaking rear main seal I only use 2 quarts every 4000 or so miles, trans shifts good, no lights, just want it to be a little more peppy.

Thanks

John

 

[Big Mama]

@Joseph Garcia would be a great resource for you.

 

[Charlie207]

If all you want is a little more pep then a cam, long-tube headers, and a tune would be perfect. It would also be substantially less expensive than a supercharger install.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I worked with a racing machine/car builder on my supercharger project, and they were very high on Whipple, based on their experiences. As such, since they were going to perform the work, I thought it best to go with their preferred vendor.

And yes, as @Charlie207 stated, it provides a lot more than a little more pep.

At 310,000 miles, I'd suggest some top end rebuilding to your motor, prior to supercharging. I cleaned up the heads, replaced the cam, lifters, pushrods, timing chain and gears, the oil pump, water pump, motor mounts, frame mounts, radiator, etc., with only 150,000 miles on my motor. Also, I replaced my transmission and torque converter with a new GM one, as I did not think that my 150,000 miles on my existing transmission would hold up under the supercharger.

 

[Foggy]

At that mileage I would NOT supercharge/force induction your engine.
No matter how well it runs/performs now
That's a lot of stress on your pistons/rings/ringlands
and your connecting rods & bearings.
For that kinda money you can do lots of other stuff and be happier.
Plus you'll need to upgrade your transmission as well.
I did the edelbrock s/c on mine with only 90K.. I liked it, but gas mileage
wasn't good.... I upgraded my entire cooling system and transmission beforehand

 

[j91z28d1]

2 qt ever 4k miles?

I think maybe find the source of that before modifing it. that's a lot of oil burning in the cyl, which also kills the octane of the fuel.

most likely you need a new updated drivers side valve cover and a good catch can.

 

[Noggles]

At that mileage I would NOT supercharge/force induction your engine.
No matter how well it runs/performs now
That's a lot of stress on your pistons/rings/ringlands
and your connecting rods & bearings.
For that kinda money you can do lots of other stuff and be happier.
Plus you'll need to upgrade your transmission as well.
I did the edelbrock s/c on mine with only 90K.. I liked it, but gas mileage
wasn't good.... I upgraded my entire cooling system and transmission beforehand

Not that I totally disagree with rebuilding, but the sloppy mechanics guys love high mileage ls stuff because the rings are well seated and the ring gaps have opened up enough to make it safer with boost.

Also, what was your gas mileage like before and after the supercharger out of curiosity.

 

[strutaeng]

300,000+ miles is perfect for force induction: your piston rings already have the perfect gap for boost.

Well, that's what Internet says, anyways.

 

[j91z28d1]

on a side note. what is the difference between a Whipple and a Magnuson?

I always thought the Magnuson was just a Whipple rotor pack and then more vehicle specific housing?

 

[Noggles]

on a side note. what is the difference between a Whipple and a Magnuson?

I always thought the Magnuson was just a Whipple rotor pack and then more vehicle specific housing?

They are separate companies with Magnusson making their own rotor packs that also are used by OEMs as well. Whipple to me, depending on the engine family isn't as good. The gm Whipple stuff always seemed to have quality issues and made less power than similar Maggie kits. But on ford engines the opposite seems to be true. Coyote cars seem to LOVE whipples.

 

[Foggy]

Not that I totally disagree with rebuilding, but the sloppy mechanics guys love high mileage ls stuff because the rings are well seated and the ring gaps have opened up enough to make it safer with boost.

Also, what was your gas mileage like before and after the supercharger out of curiosity.

Before it was 17-18 mph hwy. 10-13 city. 10mph towing
After 14-15 hwy. 10-12 city . 4.5-5.5 mph towing.. yeah that bad

Took off the sc. Did a dod delete vvt cam and some cyl head massaging.
About 17 ish hwy now. 10-13 city. 9-10 towing. And a lot less heat

 

[Big Mama]

How’d the two compare price and performance wise? I’m sure the sc made more power but how about daily driving?

 

[okfoz]

2 qt ever 4k miles?

I think maybe find the source of that before modifing it. that's a lot of oil burning in the cyl, which also kills the octane of the fuel.

most likely you need a new updated drivers side valve cover and a good catch can.

I know the source, it is my leaking oil pan and rear main seal, at least that is what the oil soaked piece of cardboard suggest to me on my garage floor, and the fact that it likes to mark its territory everywhere we go like a male dog. If I let it idle for 5 min I will leave an oil spot the size of the palm of my hand on the ground. I was quoted $1500 to do the work, so I did the math, based on 2qt for 4000 miles, on the current cost of oil and basically I can buy 5 quarts of Mobil 1 (all I use) for $30 at WalMart, Which means I spend $30 for 10,000 miles. Therefore, at current rate of leakage, it should go 500,000 miles on the same cost of oil or getting it fixed, and PLUS I get free undercoating.

 

[Foggy]

How’d the two compare price and performance wise? I’m sure the sc made more power but how about daily driving?

SC was great for daily as I still had stock camshaft with DOD turned off...
It does produce more heat - and the intercooler blocks air coming into the
radiator/condensor. I upgraded my radiator to the big alum and did headers at
the same time. It certainly hauled ass and low rpm power was awesome.
So it drive just like stock.
I chose the smallest vvt cam. So with my headers already and then did
some porting of the heads with springs etc and upgraded the rockers...
It drives pretty stockish. Lost just a little low end over stock cam...
The exhaust note is sooooo much different. you'd think I put in a stage 3 cam!

and to mention.. the SC adds about 100-150 lbs to the front end..

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I used to get 10-12 mpg in the city and 14-16 mpg on the highway. With the SC, I get 9-10 mpg in the city, and I have not had it on the highway enough miles to determine that change in mpg.

Edit: After a 900 mile highway trip with cruise control set to 72, I lost 0.3 mpg with the Whipple supercharger. This trip included going over a 3000 ft. mountain range on both ends of the trip. That's virtually insignificant.

The increase in low end torque is very significant, and the additional punch between 3k and 6k rpms is amazing.

 

[Bad70sbchevy]

on a side note. what is the difference between a Whipple and a Magnuson?

I always thought the Magnuson was just a Whipple rotor pack and then more vehicle specific housing?

Whipple supercharger is a twin screw type supercharger and Magnuson is a Roots style supercharger. The Whipple will make a little more power for the same amount of boost levels since they are a little more efficient due to it being a screw type (less power to turn, also doesn't heat up the air as much).

 

[_GMAN_]

I want to add long tube headers, and do a true dual exhaust. There are so many cams out there. What would keeping the stock cam and just adding the headers do?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I want to add long tube headers, and do a true dual exhaust. There are so many cams out there. Would would keeping the stock cam and just adding the headers do?

Not much of a power increase for the exhaust changes alone.

 

[kbit]

They are separate companies with Magnusson making their own rotor packs that also are used by OEMs as well. Whipple to me, depending on the engine family isn't as good. The gm Whipple stuff always seemed to have quality issues and made less power than similar Maggie kits. But on ford engines the opposite seems to be true. Coyote cars seem to LOVE whipples.

As far as I know Magnuson still uses Eaton rotors...nothing wrong with them. Whipple makes their own stuff ( twin screw). Whipple absolutely makes more power as it is delivered. 8 lbs whipple and I think 6 on maggie. All that said, running 9lbs with my Whipple for 30K so far...zero issues

 

[2011burbLTZ]

Can't comment on these trucks but I have run both centri and turbos on 5.3s in my other swapped cars. A 300k mile 5.3 is perfect for forced induction as long as it has enough oil pressure and isn't burning oil. If your pulling the heads then do lifters and trays for sure, if your pulling the cam then do lifters/trays and oil pump/timing chain for sure and swap the cam out for something tiny... 205 ish if you want to keep the stock stall. I run a 209/217 and a 218/228 in two other cars both turbo 5.3s. Nothing wrong with going through the heads while you have them off but minimum is blue LS6 valve springs or PAC 1218s depending on cam lift. Throw in some new valve stem seals as well. Then match your fuel system to keep up... injectors and pump and maybe a return style regulator. I have run Decapped stuck injectors (72lbs), Dekka 60lbs which are really 70lbs at 58psi and Bosch 60lb from FIC (which again are 70lb at 58psi). I don't like anything higher than 2400-2800 on the street for converters if your trying to keep drivability and fuel mileage.

I like higher mileage motors 150k+ and I have never pulled a piston to open them up for boost. I do check the cylinder walls for wear. The key here is fuel AFR and intercooling to keep IATs down and I generally like to run a bit of water meth as a safety measure for detonation. On one of my turbo 5.3s I run 87 pump gas and keep boost to 7psi ish, with a FMIC and a 2GPH Snow water meth nozzle I haven't had any issues. Fun fact that motor had a stock oil pump go while I was at least 40 miles away and I didn't realize... I made it 40 miles of driving with less than 4psi of oil pressure. It always had 40psi cold and then it dropped to 0psi when the oil got good and hot. Prob just a Oring that failed but now I run a melling HV pump.

Can't go wrong with the PD superchargers but they do heat up the air alot. You have some Centri options... Torqstorm (I have run and they are fine), Vortec has one and these are like $3500-4500 which is like half that of a PDF blower. Centri's allow adding a FMIC much easier as well and will keep you out of boost down low to cruising MPG. Idk why no one does a rear mounted turbo on these trucks... they have all the room in the world, just figure out the oiling and you can run low boost if you want. If my 2011 becomes a non family car I would do this in a heart beat... Prob be able to knock it out in a weekend too.

The 6L80 is only rated to 450rwhp supposedly... your gona be over that with anything over 6/7psi and even then you should be doing a converter and some line pressure/servo mods if you can on the 6L80e.