2007 GMC Yukon SLT fuel access door.

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iamdub

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Eh to you destroying to me enhancing. I plan to keep this till she dies. As I've put as much money into it as it took me just buying it. With the access door being so thin you don't even notice it there. I actually didn't know what to use so I tried what I had available which was caulking if I even spelled that right. Eh oh well. I'll have to come back and revisit it down the road just to make sure it's still in place otherwise I'll have to try something else. Not sure what else to use? Maybe I should have used like an apoxy type glue instead to seal it idk. If you have any better suggestions I'd be open for that. I tried my best to make sure it was all sealed up.

Sarcasm, brah! While I think dropping the tank is easier and faster than removing the seat, interior trim, carpet, slicing, etc., I understand that not everyone has the means or physical ability to be working like so underneath their car. For this method, I think you did a good job and I was genuine with my kudos for posting the mechanical details and measurements.

Caulk is NOT ideal for this, especially if it's silicone. Most silicone caulks off-gas corrosive fumes as they cure, and these lead to deteriorating of the sheet metal. Most car makers use an adhesive/sealant between panels that are overlapped and spot welded. There are commercially available versions in a single use tube form, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Bond-1...ocphy=9025338&hvtargid=pla-1041317609902&th=1
 

Rocket Man

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Alright well I haven't been here long. I know this has been discussed and I know there are tons of people that hate on this. It's kind of ridiculous how much hate it is but thats ok I don't care. I just want to share this for anyone looking for this. I couldn't find anything on this generation. I originally found a post on this site and a few guys posted pictures but they were not of our generation. So I want to share. I've got a 2007 GMC Yukon SLT. 5.3. Cammed BTR stage 2 truck cam. Texas speed Long tube headers and catless y pipe. MBRP cat back. Tuned. I wanted to replace my fuel pump with a upgraded one from Texas speed. I think it was the 320lph I can't remember. Anyway so I bought a 8x8 fuel access door and then had to figure out where to cut. So enough texting and here are the pictures. Love it hate it. Don't matter to me. I couldn't drop the tank. Enjoy and good luck.
You did a good job, first time I’ve seen an actual door used. I’m one of those who don’t find dropping the tank hard, in fact I just helped my neighbor do his a couple weeks ago. He was surprised how easy it was. But if you can’t drop it, that’s a good way to change the pump. Thanks for posting the location measurements for those who want to go this route.
 
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Kylem40

Kylem40

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You did a good job, first time I’ve seen an actual door used. I’m one of those who don’t find dropping the tank hard, in fact I just helped my neighbor do his a couple weeks ago. He was surprised how easy it was. But if you can’t drop it, that’s a good way to change the pump. Thanks for posting the location measurements for those who want to go this route.
I'm sure it isn't hard I just couldn't but I'm glad I put a door in. I actually messed up a fitting on a fuel line and didn't know and it didn't Leak until a couple days later so I was able to go back and cut the fitting off and repair it!
 
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Kylem40

Kylem40

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Sarcasm, brah! While I think dropping the tank is easier and faster than removing the seat, interior trim, carpet, slicing, etc., I understand that not everyone has the means or physical ability to be working like so underneath their car. For this method, I think you did a good job and I was genuine with my kudos for posting the mechanical details and measurements.

Caulk is NOT ideal for this, especially if it's silicone. Most silicone caulks off-gas corrosive fumes as they cure, and these lead to deteriorating of the sheet metal. Most car makers use an adhesive/sealant between panels that are overlapped and spot welded. There are commercially available versions in a single use tube form, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Bond-1...ocphy=9025338&hvtargid=pla-1041317609902&th=1
Thanks I'll have to check that out. I only used what I had available but I was wondering if it would even hold. I actually messed up a fitting and had to go back in and repair it and the stuff seems to be holding up for now anyway. I'd rather know it's 100% though so I'll have to look into replacing that because I want it 100% it did hold up to fuel spraying out the fitting though so that's a plus!
 

89Suburban

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Thanks I'll have to check that out. I only used what I had available but I was wondering if it would even hold. I actually messed up a fitting and had to go back in and repair it and the stuff seems to be holding up for now anyway. I'd rather know it's 100% though so I'll have to look into replacing that because I want it 100% it did hold up to fuel spraying out the fitting though so that's a plus!
I am a supporter, thank you very much for posting the pics and measurements. Much appreciated big dawg.
 

Avalache07

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Alright well I haven't been here long. I know this has been discussed and I know there are tons of people that hate on this. It's kind of ridiculous how much hate it is but thats ok I don't care. I just want to share this for anyone looking for this. I couldn't find anything on this generation. I originally found a post on this site and a few guys posted pictures but they were not of our generation. So I want to share. I've got a 2007 GMC Yukon SLT. 5.3. Cammed BTR stage 2 truck cam. Texas speed Long tube headers and catless y pipe. MBRP cat back. Tuned. I wanted to replace my fuel pump with a upgraded one from Texas speed. I think it was the 320lph I can't remember. Anyway so I bought a 8x8 fuel access door and then had to figure out where to cut. So enough texting and here are the pictures. Love it hate it. Don't matter to me. I couldn't drop the tank. Enjoy and good luck.
Thanks man, that's super helpful! I'm getting some fuel odours and i know its time. Ordered the pump from Rockauto, so I'll be doing the swap next week.
Just a note regarding the exaggerated comments; I think we all know the ideal is to remove the tank, however this does come with potential trouble, especially dealing with a rust queen. This is not a unibody chassis, its a truck...so body on frame. An opening in the floor plays no part in the overall structural integrity of this vehicle.
Again, thanks for sharing Bro!
 

jz57

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How did you cut the opening with a cutting wheel without touching the top of fuel tank?


Anyway so I bought a 8x8 fuel access door and then had to figure out where to cut. So enough texting and here are the pictures. Love it hate it. Don't matter to me. I couldn't drop the tank. Enjoy and good luck.
 

larrylt36

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Alright well I haven't been here long. I know this has been discussed and I know there are tons of people that hate on this. It's kind of ridiculous how much hate it is but thats ok I don't care. I just want to share this for anyone looking for this. I couldn't find anything on this generation. I originally found a post on this site and a few guys posted pictures but they were not of our generation. So I want to share. I've got a 2007 GMC Yukon SLT. 5.3. Cammed BTR stage 2 truck cam. Texas speed Long tube headers and catless y pipe. MBRP cat back. Tuned. I wanted to replace my fuel pump with a upgraded one from Texas speed. I think it was the 320lph I can't remember. Anyway so I bought a 8x8 fuel access door and then had to figure out where to cut. So enough texting and here are the pictures. Love it hate it. Don't matter to me. I couldn't drop the tank. Enjoy and good luck.
great job
 

Dustin Jackson

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@Kylem40 I know what you mean about people taking smack about not dropping the tank. I appreciate you being a pioneer of the unconventional! If it works it ain't stupid
 

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