2005 Tahoe rear defogger not working

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Larryjb

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Here is a picture of the affected connector. Once I removed the burned out terminal, I measured the voltage and got 6V or so. I'm going to check at the relay at the engine bay fuse box.

IMG_20191022_155300_hdr.jpg
 

Larryjb

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Finally found the wiring diagram I needed. In case anyone else has the same issue:

IMG_20191023_160855_hdr.jpg
 

Yates_III

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That was the diagram i was referring to. As you mentioned, i would check the voltage at the "front" of the system. I cannot remember off the top of my head what the voltage is and what the drop across the system.

I believe on moon roof tahoes the harness runs down the drive side kick panel, under door seal panels, through the jack panel, and up the D pillar. I am not 100% sure on the actual location.
 

Larryjb

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I've got a good 12v at the fuse. The next place to look in the connection at C1 as that is the only connection between the the fuse block and the connector at the the lift gate.
 

CFD Jerry

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I was just going to say what I read above.. Clean your contacts with contact cleaner.. Worked for me
 

Larryjb

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I was unable to clean the female terminal adequately. When I tried to remove the terminal from the connector, the terminal actually pulled out from the wire because the plastic connector was blackened and melted around the terminal. I will probably need a new connector for the female side. I can fairly easily clean and save the male side.

However, I do have more issues than the connector at the lift gate because I still have only 6V at the wire going to the connector. The next step is to inspect the connection at the fuse box in the engine bay. That involves a little more work!
 

Larryjb

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okay, time to eat a little crow here. The ground I was using was not a good ground and was fooled into thinking I had a problem farther upstream.

I measured the resistance between the fuse box and the heater wire to the rear window and got zero resistance. I only have to fix the connector at the lift gate.
 

HiHoeSilver

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okay, time to eat a little crow here. The ground I was using was not a good ground and was fooled into thinking I had a problem farther upstream.

I measured the resistance between the fuse box and the heater wire to the rear window and got zero resistance. I only have to fix the connector at the lift gate.

Good double check to catch yourself. I was going to ask about your ground. I usually run a wire from the - battery post when I'm checking stuff like that for that exact reason.
 

Larryjb

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I thought the ground I was using was good because I checked for continuity between the heater grid ground side with the ground I was using for testing and had zero resistance. I guess it was a "flakey" ground. Anyway, I now have "less" work to do. I'm going to replace the plastic connector, but reuse most of the terminals. Most of them can be removed and transferred to the new connector.
 

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