2004 Tahoe W/ Bose & Onstar

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Joesgottatahoe

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asically the speakers are all trash and the amp sucks. I’d rather not spend $100 on the interface module to keep all of that considering the amp is only pushing the sub and a single door speaker that fades in and out. Just looking for the harness needed to bypass and will I need to wire the speakers myself or can I use factory wires still?
 

ScottyBoy

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If you want to use the factory wires, then you need to buy the interface harness. Personally, I would buy a basic barebones radio harness so you can get the power/ignition feed wires. Then run speaker wires from your new radio to each door to each speaker. You "might" be able to get away with running wires to the Bose amp under the center console, and tie into the speaker wires there, if you can find the wires that go from the amp directly to the speakers. You definitely don't want to tie in BEFORE the amp.
 
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Joesgottatahoe

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Thanks for a clear answer it’s been hard finding info on this particular topic. Any recommendations on a basic harness? I have no issue running my own speaker wires I expected to have to do it anyways.
 

ScottyBoy

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Thanks for a clear answer it’s been hard finding info on this particular topic. Any recommendations on a basic harness? I have no issue running my own speaker wires I expected to have to do it anyways.
I haven't worked on one in years, so I can't say for 100% sure. But I believe I got a base harness for a Tahoe with a regular base radio. It's just a basic harness with a chime module box. If you don't care about keeping the chimes, and don't care about having "Retained Accessory Power" (where the radio stays on till a door is opened), then another option is running your own power and ignition wires from the fuse panel or the ignition switch. If you are running your own speaker wires, what's 3 more wires? But the ONLY way to have a true RAP wire and to keep the warning chimes is to use an actual integration harness with a chime module. And if you have steering wheel controls and you want to retain those, then you DEFINITELY need an integration harness.
 

MassHoe04

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I haven't worked on one in years, so I can't say for 100% sure. But I believe I got a base harness for a Tahoe with a regular base radio. It's just a basic harness with a chime module box. If you don't care about keeping the chimes, and don't care about having "Retained Accessory Power" (where the radio stays on till a door is opened), then another option is running your own power and ignition wires from the fuse panel or the ignition switch. If you are running your own speaker wires, what's 3 more wires? But the ONLY way to have a true RAP wire and to keep the warning chimes is to use an actual integration harness with a chime module. And if you have steering wheel controls and you want to retain those, then you DEFINITELY need an integration harness.
I really liked being able to keep steering wheel controls. I got the module with the radio I bought from Crutchfield. I opted for the module, plus having them make up the "Ready Harness" so I did did nothing for new wiring. Plug and play. Was installed and running in less than an hour.

The harness they made up also had the right connection made for the reverse trigger, so my backup cam would come on when I put into R. I was glad to not have to figure any of that out. Not that it would be difficult... I just had a lot less to do on the install and be done.
 
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Joesgottatahoe

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If you want to use the factory wires, then you need to buy the interface harness. Personally, I would buy a basic barebones radio harness so you can get the power/ignition feed wires. Then run speaker wires from your new radio to each door to each speaker. You "might" be able to get away with running wires to the Bose amp under the center console, and tie into the speaker wires there, if you can find the wires that go from the amp directly to the speakers. You definitely don't want to tie in BEFORE the amp.
I really liked being able to keep steering wheel controls. I got the module with the radio I bought from Crutchfield. I opted for the module, plus having them make up the "Ready Harness" so I did did nothing for new wiring. Plug and play. Was installed and running in less than an hour.

The harness they made up also had the right connection made for the reverse trigger, so my backup cam would come on when I put into R. I was glad to not have to figure any of that out. Not that it would be difficult... I just had a lot less to do on the install and be done.
Got a link to that module? One of my biggest reasons for doing this aside from no speakers working right now is that I have very dark tint which makes backing up a lot more annoying, so I was gonna out a cheapish radio, backup camera, new door speakers, and eventually adding a 4 channel sub for the doors and putting the sub on its own amp
 

MassHoe04

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Total for the radio and all this was about $433 delivered.

This kept my Bose intact (mine works and I like the sound just fine), allowed steering wheel controls to work, added backup cam with nice display on new radio head unit, Android Auto/Apple Car Play (wired), BT audio (streaming, NAV, etc. too) and hands-free calling.

NAV is not built into the Boss radio and is not coming through the onboard OnStar unit either. NAV would be Android Auto/Apple Car Play or BT.

Crux Wiring Interface (for chime and steering wheel controls)
Item #249CSGMC2... $60.61

Here are the other items I ordered from Crutchfield:

Boss Audio radio head unit
Item #104BE7ACP... $259.99

Metra Antenna Adapter
Item #12040GM10... $5.45

Metra Dash Kit
Item #120952001... $10.91

Crutchfield Ready Harness Wiring Service
Item #264PASCON... $24.99

Boyo VTL17IR Backup Camera
Item #707VTL17IR... $39.99

Posi-Products Wire Connectors (I only needed 2 or 3, but will have on hand for future projects)
Item #669PP605... $6.99
 
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