2003 Yukon SLT flex fuel 5.3L whats brand would you use? cam, oil pump, lifters, timing chain

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by Summajet, Jul 17, 2019.

  1. iamdub

    iamdub Hold on... Lemme overthink this for a bit...

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    Have a grinder and cut-off disc? You can make more thread chasers than you'll ever need using the old bolts.

    Use the cut-off disc to make a slot or two:

    [​IMG]


    Or, if you have a flap disc, you could just grind some simple flats into it:

    [​IMG]


    Or, if you don't have a grinder, use a hacksaw to make a couple thin slots (I'd invest even in a HF grinder before doing it this way):

    [​IMG]


    Have an air compressor? I like to use a blow gun with a 12" needle tip to blow out the threads starting from the bottom. Squirt a little brake cleaner in the hole, brush it with a thin nylon bottle brush, then blow it out. Wear side-shielded safety glasses!
     
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  2. Summajet

    Summajet Member

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    I was able to get threads cleaned out. I got blocked cleaned. I set the main bearings in the crank underside and top caps on. Will check clearances this week on crank bearings. Then ring gaps and connecting rod bearings. It feels to be making progress. I am not rushing and taking my time to get it back together
     
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  3. Summajet

    Summajet Member

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    Progress update,

    note I was going to use a torque angle gauge dial. I was reading through the steps and my Wife asked what tools would make the rebuild easier. A friend of mine is a mechanic by trade. He hooked me up with a deal on two snap-on tech digital angle torque wrenches, 3/8" and a 1/2".

    Crank bearing clearances within spec
    rod bearing clearances within spec
    piston Ring gaps within spec

    installed camshaft FIRST
    installed crank, main bearing caps
    installed piston rings and ring gaps set apart
    installed pistons,
    installed connecting rod bearings/caps
    installed camshaft thrust plate/cover
    installed timing chain and camshaft sprocket
    installed gm oil bypass galley tube

    I used assembly lube for all the bearings, behind the thrust cover/plate and behind the camshaft sprocket face.
    The ring pistons gap was easier to check using the feeler gauge. I kept my work area organized and cleaned. I also laid out all the top and 2nd rings onto a table with a drawn paper sketch of the block looking forward. I then assembled the oil ring, then top oil ring and bottom oil ring. Next the 2nd compression ring and then the top compression ring.

    This weekend I am moving onto installing the
    crankshaft position sensor.
    oil pump (new gm orange o-ring) and prime oil pump
    oil deflector tray
    oil pickup tube
    rear cover of block level (within spec per book)
    front cover of block (level within spec per book)
    install oil pan.

    It can be overwhelming but taking your time and staying organized.

    I am using the Haynes Manual and the how to rebuild GM LS-Engines by Chris Werner. The rebuild book has the steps, pictures and torque yields/angles required.

    20191018_091016.jpg
     
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  4. iamdub

    iamdub Hold on... Lemme overthink this for a bit...

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    I'm thrifty, so I drew lines and dots on the TTY bolts. For the crank pulley, I torqued the bolt, then used a protractor to put a mark on the bolt head and at the proper degrees of additional rotation. I marked each bolt hole of the cylinder heads as well. Torqued the bolts to the initial lb-ft (or is it lb-ft?), marked the bolt heads where they lined up with the first mark on the edge of the bolt holes, then turned them until they lined up with the second mark.
     
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  5. HiHoeSilver

    HiHoeSilver Away!

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    "Thrifty" Lol.

    1. Guy who clocks in, chows some eggs and bacon, figures out what to do all day, does it, clocks out, gets paid (I am NOT jealous :disgust:).

    2. And the "Perfect Tagline" award goes to.....

    3. Why don't you just clock in, throw some Nutria on the grill, Amazon a bit, clock out, buy an angle gauge, and save yourself all that thinking [and stealing your daughter's protractor (and having to remember to put it back)]?
     
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  6. iamdub

    iamdub Hold on... Lemme overthink this for a bit...

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    Hey, it's MY protractor! It's flexible and clear with some physical therapy clinic's logo on it, intended to measure a joint's range of motion. Pretty sure it was left here by my ex. (PTA) Anyway, it's very ideal for this purpose.

    The angle gauge gets in the way cuz I put the heads on after I bolt the block in the bay. This way, I can easily get to the top four bellhousing bolts. Sometimes, there is a method to my madness.
     
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  7. Summajet

    Summajet Member

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    Some headway made this weekend,
    crankshaft position sensor
    oil pump
    oil deflector
    oil pickup tube
    front timing cover

    I Hope to have time to work on it this week and get the rear cover, oil pan installed so at least the bottom end will be done.
     
  8. iamdub

    iamdub Hold on... Lemme overthink this for a bit...

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    Oil deflector?
     
  9. Summajet

    Summajet Member

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    Yes
     
  10. iamdub

    iamdub Hold on... Lemme overthink this for a bit...

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    Lol
    I meant that to ask "why". But I just looked it up and I think I see what you were referring to. It looks like the official GM name for that which is commonly known as a "windage tray" is "deflector". I thought you got the deflector for the AFM pressure release solenoid, which, of course, your Gen3 doesn't have.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2019

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